Jump to content

Fold-A-Cover, Backflip, or Extang Solid Fold 2.0?


Recommended Posts

Posted

 

The biggest thing with the fold a cover is, is there is no way to expose the whole bed with completely removing the cover unlike a folding cover like the BAK, Undercover Flex or Gator which folds up against the cab. Many will say this is not an issue, but consider if in a pinch you need the whole bed, with the Fold a cover, you will need to remove it and place it in the bed taking up cargo room, or plan ahead of time....this was a deal breaker for me. With a folding cover it makes complete sense to have the cover fold up out of the way to allow whole access to the bed.

 

I'd be interested in hearing why, if you don't mind. Much like the OP, I'm honing in on a handful of covers (been searching and reading for months). At the moment, the Fold-A-Cover is a top contender. Am not sure if I'll like how it sticks slightly above the bed rails, though.

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I'd be interested in hearing why, if you don't mind. Much like the OP, I'm honing in on a handful of covers (been searching and reading for months). At the moment, the Fold-A-Cover is a top contender. Am not sure if I'll like how it sticks slightly above the bed rails, though.

That's one of my main complaints. The Bak's look so much better being basically flush, and I never had leak issues from the top itself. You just have to get the drain tubes installed right. And the Fold-A-Cover gets ever so slightly wider in the back, wouldn't be an issue but you can tell because of the groves in the bed side covers, it drives my OCD ass crazy! But if you adjust the wind seals like they say that's just how it is. It's a quality piece, I just like the Bakflips more. Not to mention they are way easier to install and you can basically use your whole bed with them, you only get access to about 2/3 of your bed with the FaC without removing it. I have never used the front half access, maybe if you get the storage bin that fits in there...

Posted

Just ordered my Bakflip Fibermax cover with the Bakbox and tailgate seal. I probably won't need the box but I figured, what the heck. I would regret not getting it.

Posted

I have the fold-a-cover with the caddy. No problems no issues, carrying big item two bolts and the entire cover is out.

and I bought the style steps that fit the crew cab, 3.5” wide oval one piece aluminum extruded construction and completely rust proof!

looks nice.

Posted

Fold-A-Cover here. When folded up you have access to 3/4 of your bed. It has 4 panels and can be locked together or independently. Leave the rear 3 sections and tailgate locked while keeping the front section unlocked of you need to put something in there close to cab, etc. The whole thing can be removed in less than 5 minutes giving you 100% access to the entire bed without blocking the rear window like the others do. I've had mine over 2 years and have had no issues. I even took it off my 1500 and installed it on my 250HD a couple months ago when I traded.

 

Regardless of brand like Encore, Fold A Cover, or BakFlip, they are all good choices and I probably won't have another truck without one. They make a truck bed so much more versatile and are arguably better than either a solid top or soft top.

Posted

Here is my write up on the Extang Solid fold 2.0 http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/156645-2014-truck-bed-tonneau-covers/page-60?do=findComment&comment=1670434

With the last extended rain I did get some water in the corners and a bit dripped along one center hinge.

It was not much and I expected the corners but the mid hinge was a head scratcher. I think it may have traveled in from the bed rail side.

Haven't had any rain in a while so will have to keep an eye on it.

I do not get any water in that spot during car wash.

 

Here's another vote for Extang. I've had mine on my 2014 GMC for almost 2 years now - it's great!

Posted

post-204-0-06330300-1445526052_thumb.jpg

 

post-204-0-63638800-1445526049_thumb.jpg

 

post-204-0-90915400-1445526050_thumb.jpg

 

 

Extang Solid Fold 2.0. Great quality, solid, ZERO leaks, and no drain tubes. The bakflip looks cheesy with all the seals and soft rubber showing in my opinion.

post-204-0-63638800-1445526049_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-90915400-1445526050_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-06330300-1445526052_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-63638800-1445526049_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-90915400-1445526050_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-06330300-1445526052_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-63638800-1445526049_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-90915400-1445526050_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-06330300-1445526052_thumb.jpg

Posted

I got my BakFlip Fibermax and BakBox in today. So far I'm happy with it. I'm not a contractor so I'm not transporting a lot of tools and gear in the box but it seems like it would hold a reasonable load. Too much weight and it seems a bit much for it with how it's designed.

 

I think it has a nice look, functions well, seals well, and I'm looking forward to years of use with it.

Posted

Update.....

 

I installed tailgate gasket yesterday that I ordered with my BakFlip. There was a large gap at the top of the tailgate due to how the bed is made. No fault of the gasket, just a much larger gap to fill. I had left over so I added 6" strips on the tailgate itself.

I got inside the bed and closed the cover looking for daylight. Which wasn't much at all! I noticed the rear lid could lift up slightly so I added some foam gasketing to the bottom of the cover as extra gasketing material. Now I have very little chance of water getting in. More likely to get water from a car wash than rain water. I'd say it's 99% dry from rain water. It's as dark as shutting your eyes in a dark room under there.

 

The BakBox is a little overpriced in my opinion. It's a nice addition and I like it.......but for what you get for the price paid seems to be about $100 over priced. The box is the same material as the cover which is sandwiched FRP panel (two fiberglass panels with foam in between) and a very light gauge bracket on each end that holds the box in place. The bracket has slotted holes to allow for width adjustment to fit each manufacturer and the brackets themselves are too light of a gauge to hold up a lot of products in the tool box. So don't plan on loading it down with a lot of heavy tools/objects. It's not an aluminum toolbox by any means.

 

Overall I'm pretty happy with my purchase and think it's a great addition to the truck. I can take detailed pics if anyone wants pics.

Posted

As I suspected, leaks at a car wash with a pressure washer. I did not force water with high pressure other than normal spraying soap on and off the side of the truck and not at a close distance.

 

Seems the panel seams leak and the gasket on the bed leaks a little bit. I did not buy it to be 100% waterproof anyway. A few drops of water can be planned around. Unless I'm hauling precious cargo that needs to be completely water tight, I'm good.

Posted

J-Doc, I've got the same cover. On my truck it fits well enough that there is not gap between the cover and the top of the tailgate. It's tight enough that the last panel needs to be open when closing the tailgate.

 

I do get the odd drip inside during rain 'events'. Seems like the dripping is near a panel hinge, but haven't figured how it gets around the side drip rail.

Posted

Does anyone have the GM drop in plastic bed liner with any of these covers? Or the Gator or Undercover Flex? Trying to see which one will work best with the bed liner that was dealer installed when new.

 

I like the looks of the Bakflip G2 and others best with how it is pretty flush with the bed rails and don't mind the tubs and I'm not usually using that part of the bed, but don't want to get it if I can't install it with the liner.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 486 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...