Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That may be why GM provides the space for the 2nd Batt on the 1500s even though there is no Batt upgrade available from GM....gives the police/fire/EMS upfitters a place to put their 2nd battery

 

Does anyone make a kit for installing the second battery with cabling and isolator ready to go?

Posted

 

Does anyone make a kit for installing the second battery with cabling and isolator ready to go?

Not for the 1500's.

But it's so easy you don't need a "kit". Basically you're just dropping in a battery, cutting 4 gauge wire to length, crimping on some battery post ends and hooking it up. And you don't need the isolator, but if you want it that's just as easy to install...just a couple extra connections.

Posted

You could have used the last free bolt under the black cover next to the red cover, I guess it is too late to tell you.....

 

2015-05-21%2020.19.39.jpg?dl=0

2015-05-21%2020.20.24.jpg?dl=0

2015-05-22%2010.38.49.jpg?dl=0

Posted

You could have used the last free bolt under the black cover next to the red cover, I guess it is too late to tell you.....

 

 

 

 

That bolt is only rated to 125 amps though.

Posted

You wont be able to run a microwave by the way, you are going to burn the wires out unless it is on a dedicated wire to a dedicated inverter.

 

 

Hmm...so I could run a sawzall off the 120 plug with this? I tried the other day and got no power...

 

You probably tripped the breaker AND the fuse, I did that when I made the mistake trying to run a mini vacuum.

Posted

That bolt is only rated to 125 amps though.

 

Not a big deal for me, I ran mine in parallel and it is only used to make sure i can run radio and other items without worry. 125A is still a lot, 125A * 12V = 1500watts. cranking still comes from main, but the aux battery keeps it charged as they balance themselves out.

 

Unless you are actually running a larger equipment, I do not see any other case needing more than 125A unless you are cranking.

Posted

Well my plow draws about 170 amps under load, so that's why I figured direct connection without the 125A fuse in between would be best so that I can get the most from the 2nd battery...and not risk popping any fusible links Gm has in there.... But I'm not sure if it would actually matter since it's a secondary battery.

Posted

Well my plow draws about 170 amps under load, so that's why I figured direct connection without the 125A fuse in between would be best so that I can get the most from the 2nd battery...and not risk popping any fusible links Gm has in there.... But I'm not sure if it would actually matter since it's a secondary battery.

 

Or attach the the plow to the second battery only? What is it powering really? just moving it up and down right? Not a constant draw, should be ok

Posted

 

Or attach the the plow to the second battery only? What is it powering really? just moving it up and down right? Not a constant draw, should be ok

Well it usually isn't more than momentary draw, but because it has downpressure it can be a constant draw. If I scrape a long driveway in downpressure mode, the pump is running constantly to force the hydraulics down. So that could be several minutes of constant operation. I didn't have any issues last winter on the single battery, but I'm just thinking 170 amps could cause problems if drawing from two batteries at once if the connection between the two batteries is weak. For example, I'm wondering now if 4 gauge wire is sufficient. Maybe 2 gauge is a better choice...

Posted

Well it usually isn't more than momentary draw, but because it has downpressure it can be a constant draw. If I scrape a long driveway in downpressure mode, the pump is running constantly to force the hydraulics down. So that could be several minutes of constant operation. I didn't have any issues last winter on the single battery, but I'm just thinking 170 amps could cause problems if drawing from two batteries at once if the connection between the two batteries is weak. For example, I'm wondering now if 4 gauge wire is sufficient. Maybe 2 gauge is a better choice...

 

If you are plowing, chance it is that the cold is keeping the wires cool anyway. also depends on your wire length

Posted (edited)

Use an isolator, but not an electronic one unless your father in law owns an isolator factory and gives them to you for free. A standard Ford starter solenoid will do exactly the same thing and will outlast an isolator 20 to 1.

Edited by Last C5
Posted

I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 and I installed at 9500 pound winch at a few light bars and I installed a 2nd battery over a year and a half ago why use the Ford solenoid and wired it all in properly it works great

Posted

All duramax's have 2 batteries.

 

Yea for the glow plugs, so you aren't left stranded when its -15 degrees. But gas cars don't really need a second battery unless you are running all sorts of extra electronics. Like a winch, and lots of spot lights, maybe a hydraulic pump for a snow plow. etc.

Posted

 

Yea for the glow plugs, so you aren't left stranded when its -15 degrees. But gas cars don't really need a second battery unless you are running all sorts of extra electronics. Like a winch, and lots of spot lights, maybe a hydraulic pump for a snow plow. etc.

And with the higher compression ratio, diesels crank harder than a similar cube gasser.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 321 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...