Weight distribution hitches with sway control

[rcmike]

Im in the market for one and have been looking at the reese straight line hitches {66088 } and also the recurve R6 from camco. If you have a wdh do you have any input on the good and bad of yours ? thanks trailer weight going down road probably around 6500lbs,the tongue weight of trailer is roughly 815 it says when trailer is empty.......just curious,,, what does it hurt if your looking at a wdh with 1000lbs tongue weight compared to getting one that's 1200lbs Tw ?

[Blue2500CC]

Mike,

 

I am not real familiar with the Recurve system, other than what Rosco has posted about it. Does seem interesting though! IF I recall off the top of my head, I think the highest rated wd bars they have are 1200lbs. So depending on exactly how you load, location of all the tanks (fresh, grey, black), and how much weight is in the rear of the toy hauler resulting in less tw, may or may not work for your set up.

 

The Reese systems are very good systems for the money. The Dual Cam HP set up does take a little more work setting up, but performs great once dialed in. BUT... When there is changes in tw you may need to readjust the bars to the cams. Example would be running without anything in the garage compared to loaded with the dirt bikes and firewood.

 

Reese also has the SC system, which is very similar to the Equal-I-Zer 4 way model. Both perform very well. Buddy had the Equal-I-Zer system on his last tt, and loved it. Fairly easy to set up, just like the Reese SC system. The advantage the SC system has is the hitch head is more adjustable compared to the 4 way system. Adding (or removing) a washer to Equal-I-Zer model is about the same as moving the tongue brackets up or down a hole. The Reese Hitch head has a serrated washer which allows more fine tuning of the hitch head when needed while still having the tongue bracket adjustability.

 

While we have the DC HP system, if I did it again, I may lean a little more toward the SC system due to the easier adjustability. Unfortunately the dealer didn't install the DC brackets 100% correctly, even though I had stated I would do it. I need to try to correct it in the spring, but the system has still performed very well.

 

Concerning choosing the correct rated bars, I would suggest going over to RV.Net in the toy hauler forum to get an idea of what the tw may end up being with a loaded garage. Not knowing the exact layout of the trailer, including storage locations, pass through storage, etc... While our trailer is not a toy hauler, if I recall Jayco list our trailer as having 910lbs dry tw. Loaded, we have about 1400lbs. When I weighed our set up, there was not any of the boys stuff, including clothes, toys, tv, etc in the bunk room. We did not have the Jayco factory rear cargo hitch, bike rack, or bikes on the rear either. I also have added some shelves in the 3 wardrobes and the 3- 5" fence post sleeves under the trailer after weighing. In the front pass through we store: a heavy duty 10x10 ez-up, 4 bag chairs, Coleman Road Trip (blue) grill, Camp Chef Explorer 2 burner stove, tub with some water hoses/ splitters and a few extension cords (25'-30a, 50'-15a, etc), 2 aluminum roll top tables, 2- 9x12 awning mats, set of x-chocks. Under the bed we an ice maker, the bumper mounted grill (unopened, need to either sell or do something with anyway!), All tanks were empty when we weighed. That was the very first w/e we owned our new 32 BHDS. Picked up Thu evening, got home late so we loaded 95% of everything Fri morning/ early afternoon, and then left for the campground. We have added/ subtracted/ and changed a few things since so as I mentioned, do need to reweigh. But know the weight adds up very quickly!

 

Do remember you will probably want at least 12-15% tw for a safe, stable tow. If you don't have enough tw sway can, and will happen.

 

It would be nice if there was a way to get the trailer home, loaded, and then weigh it to verify what wd bars are needed. Try to work in the deal the option to exchange the hitch system if the wd bars end up not being rated high enough once the trailer is loaded.

 

Good luck, and hopefully this helps!

[gmckenzie]

I have an equalizer 4 way with 10K bars that I picked up cheap. Was looking at the Blue Ox prior to finding it. It works well, but lacks some of the finer adjusting. So if I decide to fill the water, I can't really crank the bars like I could with my older hitch or with the Blue Ox.

 

As for how heavy, the dealers all seem to underestimate the bar size needed. My trailer max is 8200 lbs so, really I should have 12K bars but the 10K seem to do just fine. Dealer sold me 800 lb bars originally.

[Chevor]

You mean 1000 pound bars right? 10k at on the ball.

 

I don't see it nessasary to get anything over what the receiver is rated.

[caledoniadude]

Equal-i-zer brand hitch is the nice set up no chains to monkey with set it and forgot it . Set up was easy to . Check craigslist got mine at a great deal used

[calgator73]

I have the equalizer... Works awesome

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

[peejaykay]

I use a propride. It's incredible. Probably overkill but it keeps me rock solid no matter the conditions.

[JoBo1943]

Check out their towing videos at this place and their "Hitch Hints".

 

In hitch hints read up on "understanding ball mount angles". They explain what happens on emergency maneuvers and how the bars react.

 

I attended a rally where a father and son both had 17' Casita trailers (3000#) and towed with a Passat TDI and Camery V6 with their receivers, unbelievable.

 

The Suburban towing an Air Stream video is as close to a PU as they get but stress using LT tires and not oversize car tires.

 

http://www.canamrv.ca/towing/

 

They seem to like "old school" WDH's

 

I ditched the rusty OEM Class III receiver on my 07 that I could tell flexed a lot with a new class IV receiver and there was a lot of difference