Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Truck bought new towards the end of 2014. In 2 years I've put 38k on it just had the AC compressor freeze up. Judging by this board the AC in these are a problem. The dealer wants 1150.00 to fix.

 

Does anyone know if there is any way to petition to get help from Chevy on the issue since this seems to be an issue with this year truck?

Posted

Truck bought new towards the end of 2014. In 2 years I've put 38k on it just had the AC compressor freeze up. Judging by this board the AC in these are a problem. The dealer wants 1150.00 to fix.

 

Does anyone know if there is any way to petition to get help from Chevy on the issue since this seems to be an issue with this year truck?

You have 38k on your truck so you are out of the full coverage warranty. GM does not owe you anything past that point. Yes, AC compressors do go out on some vehicles with lower mileage, it happens. This is the joy of owning something with moving parts, they tear up sometimes.

Posted (edited)

You have 38k on your truck so you are out of the full coverage warranty. GM does not owe you anything past that point. Yes, AC compressors do go out on some vehicles with lower mileage, it happens. This is the joy of owning something with moving parts, they tear up sometimes.

I would rephrase your statement a bit. It is not normal at all for a decent quality A/C compressor to go out in 38k miles. My experience with later model cars and trucks has been at least 100k miles to A/C compressor failure, and even those which failed at 100k+ miles, the problem was always with the compressor clutch bearing.

 

I blame shoddy parts quality that GM is using nowadays. I would bet that these compressors are made in China or Mexico and build quality is hit and miss. That does not stop GM from asking outrageous part prices for these parts. No doubt that the compressor component parts are also as cheap as possible. If they use a cheap clutch bearing and it seizes, you will need a new compressor clutch as they typically do not service just the bearing, although it is possible in many cases just to replace the bearing. The cost of A/C compressor clutch (if it is even available separately) often exceeds 80 to 90% of the complete new compressor cost). Which makes this option not very economical.

 

If you replace the whole compressor, you must also replace the receiver/dryer, and often the expansion valve, and recharge the system, which incurs additional costs.

Edited by pm26
  • Like 1
Posted

open a claim with gm. you are not that far out of warranty. if you have all of the service records and work done available, that will help. they probably will not pay for the whole thing, but might help with some, or most of the cost. it is worth a shot, I have done this with a 99, a 2004 and a 2008. water pump, master cylinder/brake booster and a steering rack on two of them. only claim I have had denied complete was the large fuse box (I forget the name) under the hood on my 2008. 1 fuse bank (just 1 fuse slot) went out and it was for my third brake light.

Posted

I would rephrase your statement a bit. It is not normal at all for a decent quality A/C compressor to go out in 38k miles. My experience with later model cars and trucks has been at least 100k miles to A/C compressor failure, and even those which failed at 100k+ miles, the problem was always with the compressor clutch bearing.

 

I blame shoddy parts quality that GM is using nowadays. I would bet that these compressors are made in China or Mexico and build quality is hit and miss. That does not stop GM from asking outrageous part prices for these parts. No doubt that the compressor component parts are also as cheap as possible. If they use a cheap clutch bearing and it seizes, you will need a new compressor clutch as they typically do not service just the bearing, although it is possible in many cases just to replace the bearing. The cost of A/C compressor clutch (if it is even available separately) often exceeds 80 to 90% of the complete new compressor cost). Which makes this option not very economical.

 

If you replace the whole compressor, you must also replace the receiver/dryer, and often the expansion valve, and recharge the system, which incurs additional costs.

You sound like a broken record. Always inferior parts from China or Mexico. Please post a link to support your claims. Or please post a link to high quality USA parts.

 

Thanks.

Posted

I would rephrase your statement a bit. It is not normal at all for a decent quality A/C compressor to go out in 38k miles. My experience with later model cars and trucks has been at least 100k miles to A/C compressor failure, and even those which failed at 100k+ miles, the problem was always with the compressor clutch bearing.

 

I blame shoddy parts quality that GM is using nowadays. I would bet that these compressors are made in China or Mexico and build quality is hit and miss. That does not stop GM from asking outrageous part prices for these parts. No doubt that the compressor component parts are also as cheap as possible. If they use a cheap clutch bearing and it seizes, you will need a new compressor clutch as they typically do not service just the bearing, although it is possible in many cases just to replace the bearing. The cost of A/C compressor clutch (if it is even available separately) often exceeds 80 to 90% of the complete new compressor cost). Which makes this option not very economical.

 

If you replace the whole compressor, you must also replace the receiver/dryer, and often the expansion valve, and recharge the system, which incurs additional costs.

No, I shouldn't and won't rephrase what I said because it is true. I get to see trucks at a different vantage point than the majority on here. My company has almost 200 trucks in their fleet and they get replaced every 3 to 4 years (usually when they hit 150k miles). With that many trucks I get to see what does go wrong and no matter what the brand of truck there are some where stuff starts tearing up early, it just happens.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sir I din't say they owned me anything. I ask if there was anyway to have them look at the situation. There is and I did. The truck is a $54,000 truck.. I just feel less than 2 years in a major component is ridiculous eslecislly when the truck has been driven like a car and dealer maintained.. It's not a fleet truck that is getting beat up.

Posted

Sir I din't say they owned me anything. I ask if there was anyway to have them look at the situation. There is and I did. The truck is a $54,000 truck.. I just feel less than 2 years in a major component is ridiculous eslecislly when the truck has been driven like a car and dealer maintained.. It's not a fleet truck that is getting beat up.

How is it ridiculous? And what does the cost of the truck have to do with your AC? That like saying that your $100 toaster oven should last longer because you bought a $1M house.

 

I haven't heard of this being a systemmic issue, so you're just unfortunately unlucky. Everything will fail eventually.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sounds like you need a new dealer. $1150? A new compressor is $498 from GM. Labor time is 1.4hrs per Mitchell. The AC belt is a strechy belt so to remove it, it gets cut. AC belt is $72.10. Say labor is $100/hr. That would be $140 for labor, plus $498 and $72.10. Add $40 in R134a plus say 1 hour to recover and recharge the system. That's $810.10 before sales tax. Even if they add in R+R for the AC belt and serp belt at a total of 1.1 hours in addition to the 1.4 for compressor, they are still $200 high. And if they are adding the belt labor at the full time, they are greedy. If they add say .5 for the belts instead of the full 1.1...its still less.

Posted

I am pretty sure that everyone will agree that the AC compressor should last more than 38K miles. As mentioned above, most will last in excess of 100K miles or more (I got 280K out of the one on my 01), BUT things do fail. There is a pretty good chance if the OP is nice, GM and the dealer will help him out if not totally take care of it.

 

Just to address the "fleet truck" theory, the AC system will last just as long in a fleet or rental environment. Its not like you can abuse it because the truck hauls a load or it gets hot rodded.

Posted

Sounds like you need a new dealer. $1150? A new compressor is $498 from GM. Labor time is 1.4hrs per Mitchell. The AC belt is a strechy belt so to remove it, it gets cut. AC belt is $72.10. Say labor is $100/hr. That would be $140 for labor, plus $498 and $72.10. Add $40 in R134a plus say 1 hour to recover and recharge the system. That's $810.10 before sales tax. Even if they add in R+R for the AC belt and serp belt at a total of 1.1 hours in addition to the 1.4 for compressor, they are still $200 high. And if they are adding the belt labor at the full time, they are greedy. If they add say .5 for the belts instead of the full 1.1...its still less.

They also have to replace the receiver/dryer and expansion valve from what I understand.

Posted

How is it ridiculous? And what does the cost of the truck have to do with your AC? That like saying that your $100 toaster oven should last longer because you bought a $1M house.

 

I haven't heard of this being a systemmic issue, so you're just unfortunately unlucky. Everything will fail eventually.

 

WELL thank you so much for your OPINION, it added so much to the discussion.

 

ANYWAY GM IS PAYING for 600.00 of the 1150.00.. The dealer is saying the reason they are doing this is some of the 2014 trucks that were made in the first part of the year have a different (cheaper) compressor than the later 2014 trucks.

  • Like 1
Posted

WELL thank you so much for your OPINION, it added so much to the discussion.

 

ANYWAY GM IS PAYING for 600.00 of the 1150.00.. The dealer is saying the reason they are doing this is some of the 2014 trucks that were made in the first part of the year have a different (cheaper) compressor than the later 2014 trucks.

 

Good to see that GM and the dealer were able to do the after warranty assistance deal. Hopefully you can get it back on the road and drive it again ASAP!!

Posted

WELL thank you so much for your OPINION, it added so much to the discussion.

 

ANYWAY GM IS PAYING for 600.00 of the 1150.00.. The dealer is saying the reason they are doing this is some of the 2014 trucks that were made in the first part of the year have a different (cheaper) compressor than the later 2014 trucks.

Sounds like your dealer is feeding you bull. There has not been any major complaints on this site about AC units going out on 2014 trucks. Do a search for other brands of trucks/cars on AC units going out and you will find others with the same crappy luck.

Posted

WELL thank you so much for your OPINION, it added so much to the discussion.

 

ANYWAY GM IS PAYING for 600.00 of the 1150.00.. The dealer is saying the reason they are doing this is some of the 2014 trucks that were made in the first part of the year have a different (cheaper) compressor than the later 2014 trucks.

You're welcome. My opinion added as much to the discussion as your complaining did.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 719 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...