Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone added a second horn to a newer truck? The puny horn in my 2012 is so weak, I can barely hear it in the cab; so I bought an low-tine FIAMM. I've been about ran over twice commuting to CT and a louder horn might get the point across.

 

Installing it isn't a problem, but my question is will the factory wiring/relay support a second horn or should I make a relay setup just for this addition?

 

Thanks

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Ok, I decided to punt and just install it.

 

Installed it behind the grill, grounded it to the frame. I was going to run a relay and fuse and all that wiring. I decided that the circuit is fused at 15a, and that I would just parallel it onto the existing wiring and see what happens. The positive wire to the factory horn is green, so I pulled back the loom, spliced and soldered the new horn wire onto that, and reinstalled the factory horn.

 

The factory horn is weak to begin with, then it's tucked under the driver's headlight, and then aimed directly down into a cross member (like less than 1/4 inch of clearance). Between the two, the FIAMM seems twice as loud.

 

The result, it works perfect...both horns work together, and it's significantly louder. Longterm will find out...but again it's on a fused circuit.

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The factory install has a high tone horn on one side and a low tone horn on the other side. I have often seen one side fail. I wonder if that is why your stock one sounded puny.

Edited by vucelick
Posted

I only have a single horn...always have.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Should caveat that, single horn tone...bought the truck new.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Yup, those W/Ts would only have 1. Good idea on adding another.

Posted

I have an LS also and I'm sure it's a single horn. If the single is on the drivers side where would the the other horn be located? I'm guessing there is probably a wire there already.

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

I looked for the wiring thinking "it would figure" since I already added a wire for the new horn.

 

It should be under the passenger headlight, but mine had no extra wiring of any kind there...I found the holes where it should mount, only no mount, horn, or wiring.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well that sucks. For the couple of mods I've done, upgraded jump seat and the DIC, I found wiring. Not as lucky this time. Thanks for checking.

 

Mike

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Hey guys, I am going to add a second horn to my 2011 Silverado LS... it does have the wiring for the second horn. it was clipped to a wire on the passenger side behind the headlight, it is clipped almost where the fog lights would be. has a metal clip in the socket, hope that helps

Posted
1 hour ago, seckels said:

Hey guys, I am going to add a second horn to my 2011 Silverado LS... it does have the wiring for the second horn. it was clipped to a wire on the passenger side behind the headlight, it is clipped almost where the fog lights would be. has a metal clip in the socket, hope that helps

Exactly seckels, I also added the second horn and found the cable under the airbox attached by a clip

20171201_185829.thumb.jpg.e517273c188d4655e3fb17a005cba942.jpg

20171201_185824.thumb.jpg.2292c20dc49b7260d6e4352fb4476fbd.jpg

  • 5 years later...
Posted

2001 Park Avenue horn plugs in direct.you will have to modify the bracket or find a truck bracket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...