Jump to content

Need some tire choice help 18s


Recommended Posts

Posted

ive been looking at picture of tire set ups for a while now. I just picked up a set of factory 18s and need to buy tires. I currently have oem 20 inch wheels but the tires are conti highway tires. I drove the same truck as mine with 18s and the ride was much better. I would like to go a bit bigger then OEM size on the 18s. My truck has a 1.5 level kit in the front. I see people going with a 275/70r18. I see that most tires in this size are E load. Will this affect ride quality? Also like to see what others are running for tire size with just a front level kit. I would like to not loose to much fuel economy, all though its not a big deal. I would like a tire that is aggressive looking but not to loud. Thanks

 

 

 

 

Posted

I went with 285/65/18 BFG KO2. Not to loud on the highway and not much bigger than stock. I can't comment on MPG because I had the dealership install them when I bought the truck. They are an LT tire so they will be a little stiffer than a P rated for ride quality. They are also winter rated which gets me 5% insurance discount where I live. Mine fit without a level so you won't have a problem.

 

 

post-156375-0-54147000-1468321542_thumb.jpg

post-156375-0-53094900-1468321554_thumb.jpg

post-156375-0-54147000-1468321542_thumb.jpg

post-156375-0-53094900-1468321554_thumb.jpg

post-156375-0-54147000-1468321542_thumb.jpg

post-156375-0-53094900-1468321554_thumb.jpg

post-156375-0-54147000-1468321542_thumb.jpg

post-156375-0-53094900-1468321554_thumb.jpg

Posted

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Nitto+ridge+grapplers

 

Honestly you will probably get over half the people saying get the BFG's, they are the newest must have tire for looks. Problem is they are expensive, more so where there are other better choices for a much more reasonable where you aren't paying for a name. The Nitto Terra Grappler is probably the second most recommended AT tire (looks/newness > performance for many people).

 

To answer your questions, yes a LT tire will ride rougher (kinda negate the smaller rim choice). Most likely in that size they will be E-rated (for some reason C-rated are hard to find which is ideal in many instances. It will be worse on gas (because of the added weight, the more aggressive tread and wider tire).

 

If you want an in between tire Hankook ATM's are well liked. The Cooper AT3 is highly rated in both off road tests and normal drivers and it is cheaper, though the sidewall isn't as "cool".

 

The ridge grapplers are a hybrid which is a cross between an aggressive AT tire and a mud tire. If this is a light off road and mainly highway truck they will be overkill but look cool. Many run a hybrid because they look more aggressive like a mud tire but have slightly better road manners. All those and the more aggressive AT tires will give more road noise than what you have.

 

Not sure what cost range you are looking but unless you tow a ton of heavier weight or off road heavily go P over E-rated (your ride and MPG will thank you). Lots of options, just search around. Tons of other forums with info on tires like Toyota and Jeep forums so search those too. I like the General Grabber AT2 for a cost effective BGF KO2 alternative.

 

Best of luck. When I replace my stocks on my 18's it will be either the Cooper AT3 or General Grabber AT2 (the truck will be doing some scenic trail riding).

 

Tyler

Posted

only issue im running into is any of the bigger sizes are only load E 275/70 or 285/65 so maybe just go up to a 265/70

Posted

Everything amxguy1970 said is true and I am not disagreeing with any of it, but there is more than just the reason of the name that BFG's typically cost more. They last longer than most all of the other all-terrain tires of equal aggressiveness, with the exception of the Nitto Terra Grapplers. Had a set of the General Grabber AT's or AT2's and a set of the BFG AT KO's and the KO's outlasted the Grabbers by at least 15k on my truck and my driving style (which didn't change from one tire to the next). Just something to keep in mind. I know BFG is running a $50 rebate on a set of 4 tires right now through July 17th (I think). I don't know if it is nationwide or a regional rebate. Just an idea on cost I just had a set of 4 BFG AT KO2's installed (285/75r16) for $978.00 out the door.

 

Goodyear Duratracs are going to be louder than the previously mentioned AT tires above.

  • 3 years later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts. 
    • I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 
    • I really did not measure what came out. I carefully followed directions to check level after i did the spill and fill and filter change. I used 10 quarts. 9 was not quite enough. My trans temp was about 175 when I checked it. Truck sitting in my driveway very close to level where I always check oil pretty much every time for consistency. My driveway is just ever so slightly downhill to run water to the street.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...