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Taller Tires Rubbing Upper Control Arms

tenscourts

By tenscourts
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tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

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You read that right. I got taller tires and now I'm rubbing on my upper control arms at full lock. So today I took my truck to a tire shop because of a slow leak. Turns out I had a nail in the sidewall so I decided to bite the bullet and get the taller tires I wanted from the beginning. I'm running the stock chrome 20's (see my gallery) which came with 275/55/20 Goodyear SR-A's. I upgraded to a 275/60/20 Michelin AT2. Now I know tires vary by manufacturer but by numbers alone my new tires should only be taller and not wider. Even with some variance by manufacturer I can't believe I'm rubbing on my upper control arms after reading so many posts where everyone says they have no rub at this size. The rub is on the front bumper side of the UCA against the inner sidewall of the tire. I have a leveling kit equivalent to the ready lift with a spacer at both the top and bottom. I did have my upper control arms replaced via recall about 2-3 weeks after my truck came in due to some concern about the quality of welds on the UCA's for a short run of trucks. The run was so short that my truck is the only one my dealer has had to perform the recall on. So clearly my new "taller" tires are wider as well. Is anyone else seeing this issue when going to the 275/60/20's? I wonder if those new UCA's stick out any farther than the originals.

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tenscourts
tenscourts

Or just avoid full lock, LOL.  Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

ChevyRoofer
ChevyRoofer

Or install Bilstein 5100s in the front...probably cheaper and better ride than new UCAs.

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tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

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Anyone else experience this by just going a size taller? I realize its probably a little fatter but I've seen a lot of others say no rub at all with a 275/60/55.

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

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They shouldn't be rubbing the UCA unless they're a good bit wider. Those tires are only a half inch taller so there's zero chance your old tires would somehow clear the UCA and these wouldn't. The only thing I can figure is that maybe your alignment is out of whack and the old tires probably rubbed too, or they're not actually hitting the UCA, and instead maybe a concrete edge of a driveway when pulling in or something similar.

tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

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I turned my wheel as far as it would go. I took the pics from inside the wheel well. You can see it almost touches and that's without hand pressure on the steering wheel. You can also see where the UCA rubs the tire at full lock. I'm going to add some air and see if that helps but I doubt it will.

 

9c2c36d9209b254afe3277de12036326.jpg

e008ac34fa00378db5d0d26619d91e54.jpg

 

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tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

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I got to thinking with the level pushing down slightly the angle probably brings the wheel in a little closer to the UCA. That combined with a taller sidewall bulging out is probably enough to cause it. I bet it wouldn't happen with stock suspension. Still going to add a little air and see what happens.

 

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ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got to thinking with the level pushing down slightly the angle probably brings the wheel in a little closer to the UCA. That combined with a taller sidewall bulging out is probably enough to cause it. I bet it wouldn't happen with stock suspension. Still going to add a little air and see what happens.

 

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

Isn't this the reason many people have to use wheel spacers like BORA? Especially with the OEM wheels offset and a leveling kit?

 

Also found this on another thread:

 

 

The smallest spacer you can go without cutting studs is 1" IF you have factory wheels with "pockets" in the back the studs are 1.75", pockets are .75" deep.

 

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Edited by ChevyRoofer
tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

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Isn't this the reason many people have to use wheel spacers like BORA? Especially with the OEM wheels offset and a leveling kit?

 

Also found this on another thread:

 

 

I just know I read a ton of threads about tires and everyone always said a 275/60/20 would not rub and I never saw any mention of spacers. I'm not saying you're wrong. I just never saw it mentioned.

 

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ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

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I just know I read a ton of threads about tires and everyone always said a 275/60/20 would not rub and I never saw any mention of spacers. I'm not saying you're wrong. I just never saw it mentioned.

 

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Are you sure they didn't have a stock suspension when they were increasing their tire size? I've seen that lots - I even did this tire upgrade when I had a 2014 - no problems with Michelin.

 

I really think this is only because of your 2.25" metal spacer level. If you don't want to take the 2.25" spacer out, I'd recommend wheel spacers or aftermarket UCA's.

tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

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Are you sure they didn't have a stock suspension when they were increasing their tire size? I've seen that lots - I even did this tire upgrade when I had a 2014 - no problems with Michelin.

 

I really think this is only because of your 2.25" metal spacer level. If you don't want to take the 2.25" spacer out, I'd recommend wheel spacers or aftermarket UCA's.

Or just avoid full lock, LOL.

 

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ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

Posted
Posted

Or just avoid full lock, LOL.

 

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

Or install Bilstein 5100s in the front...probably cheaper and better ride than new UCAs.

  • Like 1
tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

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Or install Bilstein 5100s in the front...probably cheaper and better ride than new UCAs.

I'm not sure how 5100s would solve the issue. They would still force the UCA into a more downward angle bringing the wheel closer in. Honestly it's not worth a lot of trouble for no more than it touches I just hadn't remembered anyone else mentioning it.

 

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ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure how 5100s would solve the issue. They would still force the UCA into a more downward angle bringing the wheel closer in. Honestly it's not worth a lot of trouble for no more than it touches I just hadn't remembered anyone else mentioning it.

 

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

I was saying remove your 2.25" metal spacer and install Bilstein 5100 at the top setting. Roughly 1.85". This would leave your UCA at the correct angle and you'd have a better ride.

 

Do some light reading about different lifts/levels...very informative.

 

http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf

Bryan Catrina Enthusiast

Bryan Catrina

Posted
Posted

I can tell you I have been dealing woth this for 2 months now. I went to a much more extreme on upgrade size with s 295/55/20 and had rub,So i don't like having this problem, I took to a chevy dealer who puts lots of after market wheels and tires. He could not explain it either. He has been having to make all kinds of mods to make lifts and tires work on trucks with Stamped arms.... Went to local 4wd off road parts and they advised need more off set to correct. So picked a wheel changed. This corrected the rub on a-frame, but just moved it to the sway bar. FInal solution was 285/55/20 with +18 offset wheels.

Have spoken to multiple LIft mfg and they are still trying to get a grip on the whole stamped arm issue... Lots of things that worked before don't work not with different ball joint geometry. I added a ready lift 2.25 to front, but really want a 4". Waiting on more lift companies to come up with 2wd spindle lifts before making that jump.

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