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Best oil for the 5.3

Crutter

By Crutter
in Engines & Drivetrain

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Hey everyone, we noticed this question comes up a lot, so we finally put together one master cheat sheet. It covers the exact oil capacity, filter numbers, and drain plug torques for every GM truck and SUV from 2016 through 2026. Bookmark the full guide here so you never have to guess again: https://www.gm-trucks.com/gm-engine-oil-capacity-guide/

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Crutter Enthusiast

Crutter

Posted
Posted

Getting ready for my first oil change. Looking for opinions and or test data ont the best oil for the 5.3. Looking at Mobil 1 and I think penzoil- the natural gas stuff. Thanks for the input.

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newdude
newdude

Anything that is GM Dexos spec compliant. Literally. Many of them can be had in full synthetic rather than the blend for <$5 per 5 quart jug for synthetic over the blend.   Quaker State has a

Cowpie
Cowpie

First time... Destruction Bay, Yukon Territory 1983. They say you never forget your first time, and that is soooo true. That was a killer wake up call to the next 10 years in the interior of Alaska.

don67
don67

Here's my review of the Kirkland 0w20 Dexos oil, finally available in Canada. It's dirt cheap... we're talkin' 30-50% cheaper than sale-priced Mobil, Castrol, etc.   It meets all OEM sp

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

Anything that is GM Dexos spec compliant. Literally. Many of them can be had in full synthetic rather than the blend for <$5 per 5 quart jug for synthetic over the blend.

 

Quaker State has a 0w20 (Quaker State Ultimate Durability) that is singing high praise right now:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/179260-0w20-idea-for-those-that-use-it/?hl=0w20

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/179260-0w20-idea-for-those-that-use-it/?p=1709391

  • Like 4
Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can compare many name brand oils at the Petroleum Quality Institute of America website. They randomly pick oils and do detailed analysis of what the formulation is and the base characteristics. It helps if one is a little knowledgeable on what goes into motor oils and how it all works to get the most from the analysis and comparisons. Name brand, or even if a oil is full synthetic, does not equate to the highest quality. 20-25% of any motor oil is additive formulation. It is the additive package that controls acids, prevents sludge, provide friction modifiers and extreme pressure components, oxidation prevention, detergents for keeping engine internals clean, etc. Base oil is clear like water, conventional or synthetic. It is the add pack that makes the motor oil color.

 

http://www.pqiamerica.com

 

Even among the dexos1 certified stuff, there is a lot of variance in what goes into the motor oils and how that relates to quality. A oil may be certified as dexos1, but all that is required is it meet the minimum standard. Not that it exceed it. While a "C' grade is passing, I would prefer the "B" or "A" grade oil.

 

To the OP, Mobil 1 or Pennzoil are both reputable products. I don't use them, but that doesn't mean they are not ok. You can find comparisons of these at the PQIA website. Pick what helps you sleep well at night, and look for periodic sales and rebates on your selection and stock up.

Edited by Cowpie
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fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

It's really personal preference. Any Dexos1 approved 0W20 should be fine. I was always partial to Amsoil even tho they aren't officially approved as a Dexo1 oil, there oil exceeds the specs.

 

But in reality any semi-synthetic or full synthetic changed at regular intervals (per the OLM and driving habits) should be fine.

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Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

I was using a full synthetic oil from my side mechanic for about 10,000 miles or so and I just switched back to the dealer's AC Delco 0W-20 synthetic blend. Honestly, I think the truck feels and runs better on the AC-Delco synthetic blend. With the full synthetic for example it would engage V4 mode much more often than it would on the synthetic blend and it would enter V4 much more aggressively. Aggressively as in you could really feel the V4 engage...the truck would jump a bit and the change in engine and exhaust note was very apparent. After switching back to the blend it changes between V4 and V8 much more smoothly. I'll probably stick with the synthetic blend and change the oil at 5,000 miles which is 2500 miles sooner than what the manual states.

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

Nothing wrong with using a blend. I have been fond of blends and gotten great results in my commercial stuff. If it works, do it!

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Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted (edited)

You could use a 5w30, it wouldn't hurt a bit. Heck, even a 10w30 would be fine for warm days. Me, personally, I wouldn't even give warranty concerns a second thought. In over 40 years of vehicle and commercial engine ownership, I have yet to have a dealer even inquire about the brand or weight of oil I was using, even for warranty work. As long as you play stupid, no one is going to ask. The 30w oils will work just fine. Some argue that engine tolerances are tighter on the new motors, but that is a marketing ruse. Tolerances are the same for a 2015 5.3 Ecotec that has a 20w recommendation as a 2013 5.3 Vortec with a 30w recommendation. Part of the whole 20w vs 30w thing revolves around CAFE economy stuff.

 

Viscosity is a measure of resistance anyway, not a measure of thickness. You want some resistance to flow so that oil is not squeezed out of bearings and such too quickly, but you want a low enough viscosity so that the oil gets in there in an efficient manner. It is a balancing act. And the differences between a 20w and a 30w, especially in warm weather is minuscule.

 

I use a 10w30 in everything I own. Maybe different classifications (diesel or gasser oil) but all the same 10w30 viscosity. Year round, winter and summer. From my portable generator and lawn mower up thru my Silverado and Cadillac, on up to my commercial semi truck grossing up to 80,000 lb and I have never had a single oil related problem in 40 years. Be it Ford, Mopar, or GM. Small or Big Block. 4 cyl thru V8's. The Detroit 12.7L in my semi has 593,000 miles on it with no engine repairs, using a 10w30. Only uses 2 qts of oil in 20,000 mile oil changes. Compare that to a little GM engine.

Edited by Cowpie
gregrob20 Enthusiast

gregrob20

Posted
Posted

You need an oil with a low volatility index in a DI engine... Something like Pennzoil Ultra or Casterol EDGE... The oil is more stable which means much fewer particles get flashed off and become vapors which can be sucked into the intake manifold and coke up the valves.

 

Also since you aren't an engineer and don't know to what tolerances the engine was built on the bearing clearances, and with what viscosity they designed the AFM and VVT actuators to work I wouldn't go changing weights haphazardly....

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

Anyone use a higher weight oil? 5w-30? Thinking about 100+ degree days. No need for 0w so I'll run either 5w20 or 5w30.

Vettes are spec-d with 5-20 and here in the Hot ass south i run it and will probably run the 5-30 when i put the blower on.

 

RT

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

One set of tests I read indicated that, while the 20Ws meet Dexos1 specification, the Dexos1 30Ws may have better protection attributes.

 

I'm not one to change viscosities arbitrarily for the reasons mentioned previously, but in this case they are probably close enough...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted (edited)

You need an oil with a low volatility index in a DI engine... Something like Pennzoil Ultra or Casterol EDGE... The oil is more stable which means much fewer particles get flashed off and become vapors which can be sucked into the intake manifold and coke up the valves.

 

Also since you aren't an engineer and don't know to what tolerances the engine was built on the bearing clearances, and with what viscosity they designed the AFM and VVT actuators to work I wouldn't go changing weights haphazardly....

 

 

I agree! One of the reasons I like using a 10w30. Significantly lower NOACK or volatility than a 5w30 or 0w30. Many 10w30 synthetics have half the NOACK of equivalent brand 5w30's. Both are 30w oils at operating temperature, but a 10w30 synthetic barely needs any viscosity modifiers compared to a 5w30. Hence the lower NOACK rating. I am sold on 10w30 synthetics in every engine I run. Many synthetic 10w30 oils have only 1/3 the NOACK that dexos1 allows (12 NOACK). It is typical to see 10w30 synthetic NOACK levels around 4. GM for some reason has a 10w30 phobia so a 10w30 will not be on a dexos1 approved list. I don't really give a rip. I use a 10w30. Of virtually any brand, their 10w30 will have lower NOACK ratings than their 5w30 or 0w30. Yes, even Amsoil. Look their charts.

 

If I had something that called for a 20w, and didn't want to try a 30w oil, I would select a 5w20 and never a 0w20 for the same reasons. A 5w20 has a significantly lower NOACK rating than a 0w20, and is more shear stable. Again, because the 5w20 synthetic barely requires any viscosity modifiers.

Edited by Cowpie
Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

If you are planning on keeping the truck until the wheels fall off, then sure maybe you want to spend the time and energy to try to find the ultimate best out of a lot of best/good oils. But if you're only going to keep the truck for say.. 5-10 years then may I suggest you just use whatever meets the requirements and go have a beer/ginger ale and yell at the TV :)

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