Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So when I was dealing with the Chief Engineer over the entire truck line with GM I posed this very question. He did some research with the other engineers and this was the info I was given. If your truck is a LTZ or SLT then the body harness has the locations for the switch for the window motor and the overhead console. If your truck is a lower trim than the ones I just mentioned the harness will be missing and it will not be possible to add the sliding rear window in like a factory setup.

 

GM offered to do my truck, cost was going to be around $3k plus labor which GM offered to cover, their only worry was if the dealer would be able to handle the swap and make it look and work like OEM. GM didn't want to take the chance on it and neither did I.

Posted

Sliding rear windows has been a popular option for decades. Just opening your front and rear windows a little will quickly balance the temperature throughout the cab. If running wires through the headliner is problematic, then run it under the floor covering. A stock style switch placement is not necessarily the best! I've had people wave back at me while I've been operating my rear window!

Posted

So when I was dealing with the Chief Engineer over the entire truck line with GM I posed this very question. He did some research with the other engineers and this was the info I was given. If your truck is a LTZ or SLT then the body harness has the locations for the switch for the window motor and the overhead console. If your truck is a lower trim than the ones I just mentioned the harness will be missing and it will not be possible to add the sliding rear window in like a factory setup.

 

GM offered to do my truck, cost was going to be around $3k plus labor which GM offered to cover, their only worry was if the dealer would be able to handle the swap and make it look and work like OEM. GM didn't want to take the chance on it and neither did I.

Yeah thats alot of money. I already got it installed during the weekend. I figured I'll just need to add 1 fuse, 2 relays one to open and one to close it will work as good as factory. So far I have spent about 275 on parts and a used oem rear glass. It shouldn't be more than 350 total when done.
Posted

Exactly what I posted earlier. Less than $500 to do it. Not $3k.

Yeah thats $3k plus labor. With all the tools, diagrams and parts available and they are not so sure of being capable to get it done right. Thats funny

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Here is where Im at so far on the rear sliding upgrade,

 

C339E921-1DA3-41D2-A409-B9249DFF7245.jpg

Window installed

 

2EC9C8DF-99BE-434C-AEC0-C7873DDEFE0E.jpg

Switch and plate installed

 

CFDC7369-A45E-43AA-8180-DBF0A76A6648.jpg

Relays in place

 

Wiring might not look as clean as factory installed but once I put that cover on who is gonna know is even there. Im 95% pretty much done I just need to tap the power and ground source and I'll be all set.

 

Parts used

 

23373685 GM Rear 3pc glass $200 used plus $65 installation

23104426 Trim Plate Gray $21 new

22774498 Switch $25

ACDelco PT796 Pigtail for the switch $25

5 Pole NC/NO Relay x2 $10

 

So about $350 total

Edited by Dbeto54
  • Like 6
Posted

Does the window go down (like in the doors) or does it slide to the side (like fords)?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Does the window go down (like in the doors) or does it slide to the side (like fords)?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rear window slides to the side. A window that went down would introduce a few new installation challenges!

Posted

Here is where Im at so far on the rear sliding upgrade,

 

C339E921-1DA3-41D2-A409-B9249DFF7245.jpg

Window installed

 

2EC9C8DF-99BE-434C-AEC0-C7873DDEFE0E.jpg

Switch and plate installed

 

CFDC7369-A45E-43AA-8180-DBF0A76A6648.jpg

Relays in place

 

Wiring might not look as clean as factory installed but once I put that cover on who is gonna know is even there. Im 95% pretty much done I just need to tap the power and ground source and I'll be all set.

 

Parts used

 

23373685 GM Rear 3pc glass $200 used plus $65 installation

23104426 Trim Plate Gray $21 new

22774498 Switch $25

ACDelco PT796 Pigtail for the switch $25

5 Pole NC/NO Relay x2 $10

 

So about $350 total

Looks great! Where'd u get the used 3 piece glass?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Did your solid glass break when it was removed?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Looks great! Where'd u get the used 3 piece glass?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks I found it on craigslist here in houston tx but Im sure is possible now to find them at some of the junk yards that get late models

Nice progress

Thanks

Did your solid glass break when it was removed?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, I have it as a spare but might end up posting on Craigslist and see if it sells
  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...
Posted

Did you get this wired up? I'm also about to do this mod. Just grabbed the window and will be picking up rest of parts soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 806 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
    • Checked the pads today and there's plenty of meat on them. If the message keeps coming up, I'll just answer YES that the pads were replaced and wait for the squeal.
    • Welcome to the Forum! Always post the code definitions along with the codes. there are over 18000 possible codes, no one remembers them all and most will skip over your post rather than look them up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...