Jump to content

Rear window swap

martinmanning1954
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dbeto54
Dbeto54

Here is where Im at so far on the rear sliding upgrade,   Window installed   Switch and plate installed   Relays in place   Wiring might not look as clean as factory installed but once I

Dbeto54
Dbeto54

Yes factory wiring is already in place. I would only need to add this 2 parts and I'll be set

Dbeto54
Dbeto54

Nevermind wires are only on the rear to connect the motor but non at the overhead console nor at the fuse box. Let me figure this out and I'll post what ever I come up with. I could always just use a

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

So when I was dealing with the Chief Engineer over the entire truck line with GM I posed this very question. He did some research with the other engineers and this was the info I was given. If your truck is a LTZ or SLT then the body harness has the locations for the switch for the window motor and the overhead console. If your truck is a lower trim than the ones I just mentioned the harness will be missing and it will not be possible to add the sliding rear window in like a factory setup.

 

GM offered to do my truck, cost was going to be around $3k plus labor which GM offered to cover, their only worry was if the dealer would be able to handle the swap and make it look and work like OEM. GM didn't want to take the chance on it and neither did I.

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Sliding rear windows has been a popular option for decades. Just opening your front and rear windows a little will quickly balance the temperature throughout the cab. If running wires through the headliner is problematic, then run it under the floor covering. A stock style switch placement is not necessarily the best! I've had people wave back at me while I've been operating my rear window!

Dbeto54 Enthusiast

Dbeto54

Posted
Posted

So when I was dealing with the Chief Engineer over the entire truck line with GM I posed this very question. He did some research with the other engineers and this was the info I was given. If your truck is a LTZ or SLT then the body harness has the locations for the switch for the window motor and the overhead console. If your truck is a lower trim than the ones I just mentioned the harness will be missing and it will not be possible to add the sliding rear window in like a factory setup.

 

GM offered to do my truck, cost was going to be around $3k plus labor which GM offered to cover, their only worry was if the dealer would be able to handle the swap and make it look and work like OEM. GM didn't want to take the chance on it and neither did I.

Yeah thats alot of money. I already got it installed during the weekend. I figured I'll just need to add 1 fuse, 2 relays one to open and one to close it will work as good as factory. So far I have spent about 275 on parts and a used oem rear glass. It shouldn't be more than 350 total when done.
Dbeto54 Enthusiast

Dbeto54

Posted
Posted

Exactly what I posted earlier. Less than $500 to do it. Not $3k.

Yeah thats $3k plus labor. With all the tools, diagrams and parts available and they are not so sure of being capable to get it done right. Thats funny

  • 2 weeks later...
Dbeto54 Enthusiast

Dbeto54

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here is where Im at so far on the rear sliding upgrade,

 

C339E921-1DA3-41D2-A409-B9249DFF7245.jpg

Window installed

 

2EC9C8DF-99BE-434C-AEC0-C7873DDEFE0E.jpg

Switch and plate installed

 

CFDC7369-A45E-43AA-8180-DBF0A76A6648.jpg

Relays in place

 

Wiring might not look as clean as factory installed but once I put that cover on who is gonna know is even there. Im 95% pretty much done I just need to tap the power and ground source and I'll be all set.

 

Parts used

 

23373685 GM Rear 3pc glass $200 used plus $65 installation

23104426 Trim Plate Gray $21 new

22774498 Switch $25

ACDelco PT796 Pigtail for the switch $25

5 Pole NC/NO Relay x2 $10

 

So about $350 total

Edited by Dbeto54
  • Like 6
tmo Enthusiast

tmo

Posted
Posted

Does the window go down (like in the doors) or does it slide to the side (like fords)?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Does the window go down (like in the doors) or does it slide to the side (like fords)?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rear window slides to the side. A window that went down would introduce a few new installation challenges!

chevy15 Enthusiast

chevy15

Posted
Posted

Here is where Im at so far on the rear sliding upgrade,

 

C339E921-1DA3-41D2-A409-B9249DFF7245.jpg

Window installed

 

2EC9C8DF-99BE-434C-AEC0-C7873DDEFE0E.jpg

Switch and plate installed

 

CFDC7369-A45E-43AA-8180-DBF0A76A6648.jpg

Relays in place

 

Wiring might not look as clean as factory installed but once I put that cover on who is gonna know is even there. Im 95% pretty much done I just need to tap the power and ground source and I'll be all set.

 

Parts used

 

23373685 GM Rear 3pc glass $200 used plus $65 installation

23104426 Trim Plate Gray $21 new

22774498 Switch $25

ACDelco PT796 Pigtail for the switch $25

5 Pole NC/NO Relay x2 $10

 

So about $350 total

Looks great! Where'd u get the used 3 piece glass?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ray1982 Enthusiast

Ray1982

Posted
Posted

Did your solid glass break when it was removed?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dbeto54 Enthusiast

Dbeto54

Posted
Posted

Looks great! Where'd u get the used 3 piece glass?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks I found it on craigslist here in houston tx but Im sure is possible now to find them at some of the junk yards that get late models

Nice progress

Thanks

Did your solid glass break when it was removed?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, I have it as a spare but might end up posting on Craigslist and see if it sells
  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...
WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

Did you get this wired up? I'm also about to do this mod. Just grabbed the window and will be picking up rest of parts soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • GMCustomerService
      P0700 & P0747 Dilemma )':

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We want you to have full confidence in your Silverado, @ceeemcgeee. Safety is our utmost priority, and we understand your concern after this experience. We would like to provide an added layer of assistance between you and your dealer as we pursue the resolutions of your transmission concerns. When you have a moment, we would like to learn more about your experience so we may explore the best path of assistance moving forward. Please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the support request form with all pertinent details. This form helps our team gather the right information and ensures your request is routed appropriately.
    • BlueV8
      Disable AFM for $0: The M5 Method for 6-Speed Trucks

      By BlueV8 · Posted

      Disclosure: BlueV8 is a Supporting Vendor and sells plug-in AFM/DFM disablers.   Before you spend a dime with us — or with anyone — try the AFM disabler GM already built into your truck. It's the shifter, and it's free. ⏱ The 10-second version 🚫 Skip the M5 method if: Most of your miles are highway — M5 locks out 6th gear, so you cruise at higher RPM and burn more fuel You already know you'll forget — it only works if you do it every single drive Your lifters are already ticking — nothing that switches AFM off repairs existing damage You already run a tune or disabler — this would be doing the same job twice ✅ Worth trying if: You want AFM off today, for exactly $0 You want to test-drive V8-only life before buying anything Your driving is mostly town and short trips, where 6th gear barely matters Your truck is leased or under warranty and you won't touch the ECM — this is zero hardware, zero software 💡 The whole trick, in one paragraph Owners across GM forums keep reporting the same pattern: put the transmission in manual / range-select mode, pick M5 or lower, and AFM never activates — the truck stays in V8 the whole drive. Bump it up to M6 and V4 mode comes right back. Two of the cleaner threads on it are here and here. GM has never documented this behavior, so file it under "strong owner consensus," not gospel. The good news: it takes exactly one drive to verify on your own truck. Steps below. What "free" actually costs Effort, every drive. It's a routine, not a setting. Shift to M, tap up to 5, every time you get in. There is no set-and-forget here. 6th gear. When GM shipped trucks with AFM/DFM switched off during the 2021 chip shortage, its own estimate of the penalty was about 1 MPG — and those trucks kept every gear. In M5 you're also giving up overdrive, so expect the highway hit to be bigger than that. Patience. One Tahoe owner ran the L5 routine for two months, then got tired of it and bought a plug-in disabler — he had an extended warranty, so flashing a tune was off the table. That's not a knock on the method. That's just what month two feels like.   I put together the full instructions, limitations, and links to the original owner discussions here: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/how-to-disable-afm-for-free-the-m5-method
    • BlueV8
      Half of you don't need an AFM disabler. Take 30 seconds to find out which half you're in

      By BlueV8 · Posted

      Disclosure: BlueV8 is a Supporting Vendor and we sell AFM/DFM disablers. We wrote this because not every GM owner actually needs one. In some cases, regular maintenance, towing use, an existing tune, or simply using M5 makes another device unnecessary.   ⏱ The 10-second version 🚫 Skip it if… You keep the oil full and change it every ~5,000 miles. Your risk is already low. You're happy shifting into M5 every drive. That disables AFM for free. Your truck tows heavy most days. AFM barely runs under load. You already run a tune or delete kit. Done is done. It's already ticking or misfiring. You need a mechanic, not a plug-in. ✅ Worth it if… You bought it used and the oil history is a mystery. Checking the dipstick is… not your hobby. (No judgment.) You're a long-term keeper with lots of easy highway miles — exactly when AFM runs most. The V4 drone and shudder drive you nuts. You're under warranty, so a tune is off the table.   The full article includes the supporting GM bulletins and owner reports: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler
    • PunchT37
      Metal shavings on dipstick and filter

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      It`s magnetic so it`s not main or rod bearings. I would pop off a valve cover or 2 and take a good look at the rocker arms. See if you can see if any needle bearings are coming apart.
    • Clay LeBlanc
      Metal shavings on dipstick and filter

      By Clay LeBlanc · Posted

      Hey yall.   I have a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 2wd. I just did my own oil change (currently 132,000 miles) on the truck for the first time since I got it. It has always had routine maintenance done at the correct time. Never once had a check engine light, oil pressure light, or any light (except low fuel lol). Also never towed anything ever. It has been a daily driver for me.   I noticed the dipstick has metal shavings magnetized to the end of it. And even after wiping it and putting it back in like 12 times, it still pulls some out. The oil filter also has a good amount in it.  It has always ran perfect and still does. Never ever had a weird noise or knocking or ever ran rough. Almost too perfect lol. So this metal has really surprised me. I see some similar stories where people say this is normal wear, others say your engine is cooked. I know it’s hard to say for sure without seeing in person but just wanna see if anyone has had a similar experience at this mileage or any advice?   Thank you in advance.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...