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Posted
1 minute ago, Marv88 said:

I asked a similar question but wasn't able to have it answered here so I researched elsewhere and found you just need to replace the steering wheel along with the clock spring to control an aftermarket headunit as the signal is picked up at the clockspring unlike with the factory radio. If you get the idatalink Maestro as well you will also be able to maintain "most" of the other functions in the factory radio as long as the headunit you choose supports idatalink however I haven't had a chance to install mine yet so i don't know what those functions are.

Great news! Thank you!

I was at the point where I was going to pick up a new steering wheel just for the leather upgrade, so this is awesome.

Posted
6 minutes ago, moonmaan said:

Great news! Thank you!

I was at the point where I was going to pick up a new steering wheel just for the leather upgrade, so this is awesome.

You're welcome and one thing to note is if you go with a typical double din headunit you will need to cut the plastic support rails for the factory module inside the dash (the Alpine Restyle is the only one I am aware of that does not require any dash modification)

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/7/2016 at 5:31 PM, Harlech said:

Well after some work and some digging and some wiring I have finally completed the retrofit of my RCSB Blackout (Which was the WT trim with the small radio) to have the IO5 stereo, Color DIC Gauge Cluster and Heated Steering wheel with all the controls working, both the DIC and the stereo controls work. I would guess that total I have about $2000 tied up in all of this so it can get costly and it isn't for the feint of heart, you will be cutting into factory wires. This will only work if you have the IO4 option code, if you have the IO3 stereo you are probably out of luck.

 

Gauge cluster programming was provided by Chris over at WAMS, I highly suggest going to Chris for all your custom module programming needs. He is a busy guy so if you have questions on this swap you will want to post them here as Chris won't be able to help you out with anything other than providing the custom programming for the cluster. You can request prices from his site at: http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/

 

All of the information needed to do this retrofit can been dug up from the upfitters electrical manual available at: https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/body-builder-manuals

If you plan on attempting this familiarize yourself with the information I post and this manual, it will save you some head aches.

 

Basically all you are doing is tying back the steering wheel controls to the gauge cluster on the LIN Bus (one wire, that doesn't exist if you don't have controls) and then adding the gauge cluster to the MOST bus via the stereo. This is easily done at the radio module behind the HMI (The top box, but you know this if you have upgraded to IO5 or IO6) just with the grey 8 pin connector which actually is where it shows the gauge cluster being in relation between the amplifier and the radio. You will want to put the gauge cluster in series on the most bus on wires 3 and 4 from the far right connector on the radio module. So basically you will cut these wires and where they were going in to the radio now they will go into the gauge cluster on pins 1 and 2 and the return to the radio from pins 17 and 18 on the gauge cluster, all this can be found in the upfitter manaul. Then you will want to grab the MOST enable signal from wire 7 on the connector and bring it back to the gauge cluster also, you can tap off of it.

 

If you have any questions feel free to post them here and I will try to stop in every so often and answer. PM's will go unanswered as I don't want to type the same info out 20 times so just post it here so we can have one post covering this. I will also try and post some diagrams and more pictures next week along with a link to the pins that plug in to the blank spots on the connector of the gauge cluster to add the above circuits.

 

But yes, this can be done.

 

Thanks,

Kyle

post-148500-0-72618900-1475875275_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-10696000-1475977173_thumb.png

post-148500-0-48648200-1475977174_thumb.png

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post-148500-0-56518400-1475977181_thumb.png

post-148500-0-75691100-1475977182_thumb.png

post-148500-0-72618900-1475875275_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-10696000-1475977173_thumb.png

post-148500-0-48648200-1475977174_thumb.png

post-148500-0-29748800-1475977176_thumb.png

post-148500-0-23487800-1475977178_thumb.png

post-148500-0-56518400-1475977181_thumb.png

post-148500-0-75691100-1475977182_thumb.png

post-148500-0-72618900-1475875275_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-10696000-1475977173_thumb.png

post-148500-0-48648200-1475977174_thumb.png

post-148500-0-29748800-1475977176_thumb.png

post-148500-0-23487800-1475977178_thumb.png

post-148500-0-56518400-1475977181_thumb.png

post-148500-0-75691100-1475977182_thumb.png

post-148500-0-72618900-1475875275_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-10696000-1475977173_thumb.png

post-148500-0-48648200-1475977174_thumb.png

post-148500-0-29748800-1475977176_thumb.png

post-148500-0-23487800-1475977178_thumb.png

post-148500-0-56518400-1475977181_thumb.png

post-148500-0-75691100-1475977182_thumb.png

My truck is a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado Regular Cab WT 2WD IO3, But I have recently upgraded it to I05 via an MVI kit, so now I have the HMI Module and everything. 

 

I would like to do this mod as well, I got such a great deal on this WT, I had to buy it, and knew everything else could be upgraded, but shed a tear about the cluster and steering wheel, so I've been searching on how to make this work.

 

I contacted whiteautoandmedia and was referred to this thread. Any help appreciated!

 

Thanks!

Posted

My truck is a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado Regular Cab WT 2WD IO3, But I have recently upgraded it to I05 via an MVI kit, so now I have the HMI Module and everything. 

 

I would like to do this mod as well, I got such a great deal on this WT, I had to buy it, and knew everything else could be upgraded, but shed a tear about the cluster and steering wheel, so I've been searching on how to make this work.

 

I contacted whiteautoandmedia and was referred to this thread. Any help appreciated!

 

Thanks!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

When connecting to the clock spring harness, you mean from the steering wheel to the clock spring? Pretty much on the steering wheel harness?

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

Posted
On 3/25/2018 at 7:43 PM, DMac1984 said:

My truck is a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado Regular Cab WT 2WD IO3, But I have recently upgraded it to I05 via an MVI kit, so now I have the HMI Module and everything. 

 

I would like to do this mod as well, I got such a great deal on this WT, I had to buy it, and knew everything else could be upgraded, but shed a tear about the cluster and steering wheel, so I've been searching on how to make this work.

 

I contacted whiteautoandmedia and was referred to this thread. Any help appreciated!

 

Thanks!

I agree with you on the looks and functionality of the cluster and steering wheel controls. It's easy enough to do just study the connector changes. Don't mind the flow charts of circuitry these are just letting you know what circuit your adding it to. 

 

I purchased a new steering wheel (with the voice controls duh)

a new clock-spring

a new gauge cluster (I wish I would have bought a denali gauge cluster because they are so sweet, all LCD)

 

I tried it first without swapping the clock-spring but the voice controls didn't work nor did it light up at night. So swap out the clock-spring.

Posted
5 hours ago, Reyesarg said:

I agree with you on the looks and functionality of the cluster and steering wheel controls. It's easy enough to do just study the connector changes. Don't mind the flow charts of circuitry these are just letting you know what circuit your adding it to. 

 

I purchased a new steering wheel (with the voice controls duh)

a new clock-spring

a new gauge cluster (I wish I would have bought a denali gauge cluster because they are so sweet, all LCD)

 

I tried it first without swapping the clock-spring but the voice controls didn't work nor did it light up at night. So swap out the clock-spring.

So all I have to do for my io3 W/T that was upgraded to IO5 (via MVI kit) is get a new steering wheel, a new clock spring, and new gauge cluster, then just have it programmed to my truck, then install and I'm good to go?

Posted (edited)
35 minutes ago, DMac1984 said:

So all I have to do for my io3 W/T that was upgraded to IO5 (via MVI kit) is get a new steering wheel, a new clock spring, and new gauge cluster, then just have it programmed to my truck, then install and I'm good to go?

Yup, I had these guys program my gauge cluster for my truck. Also, just double check behind the infotainment LCD that the radio connector A11 Radio X2 is there. It should be but ya never know. Check the image.

http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/

 

I think the guys name is Chris. Check out his website fully before sending or contact him first because hes specific about shipping.

 

Does your year truck have an HMI behind the passenger compartment? Just wondering because I thought I read something about i03 trucks not having an HMI. :/

 

*Addition - you will have to buy a spool of 0.5-mm (I think that's 22 gauge in AWG) wire and the female terminal pins for adding the wire to the gauge cluster connector and wiretaps or know how to solder.

silverado_radio_control.jpg

Edited by Reyesarg
Posted
7 minutes ago, Reyesarg said:

Yup, I had these guys program my gauge cluster for my truck. Also, just double check behind the infotainment LCD that the radio connector A11 Radio X2 is there. It should be but ya never know. Check the image.

http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/

 

I think the guys name is Chris. Check out his website fully before sending or contact him first because hes specific about shipping.

 

Does your year truck have an HMI behind the passenger compartment? Just wondering because I thought I read something about i03 trucks not having an HMI. :/

silverado_radio_control.jpg

It did not have an HMI, but since the IO5 upgrade it now does, I installed it behind the dash screen. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
Yup, I had these guys program my gauge cluster for my truck. Also, just double check behind the infotainment LCD that the radio connector A11 Radio X2 is there. It should be but ya never know. Check the image.
http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/
 
I think the guys name is Chris. Check out his website fully before sending or contact him first because hes specific about shipping.
 
Does your year truck have an HMI behind the passenger compartment? Just wondering because I thought I read something about i03 trucks not having an HMI. :/
 
*Addition - you will have to buy a spool of 0.5-mm (I think that's 22 gauge in AWG) wire and the female terminal pins for adding the wire to the gauge cluster connector and wiretaps or know how to solder.
silverado_radio_control.thumb.jpg.e084c7015007b995cb755396aa06bb51.jpg
When you connected your wire from the cluster to the wheel, which connector on the wheel did you tap into? I can't figure that one out as my wire colors don't match OP

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 7/10/2016 at 2:31 PM, Harlech said:

Well after some work and some digging and some wiring I have finally completed the retrofit of my RCSB Blackout (Which was the WT trim with the small radio) to have the IO5 stereo, Color DIC Gauge Cluster and Heated Steering wheel with all the controls working, both the DIC and the stereo controls work. I would guess that total I have about $2000 tied up in all of this so it can get costly and it isn't for the feint of heart, you will be cutting into factory wires. This will only work if you have the IO4 option code, if you have the IO3 stereo you are probably out of luck.

 

Gauge cluster programming was provided by Chris over at WAMS, I highly suggest going to Chris for all your custom module programming needs. He is a busy guy so if you have questions on this swap you will want to post them here as Chris won't be able to help you out with anything other than providing the custom programming for the cluster. You can request prices from his site at: http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/

 

All of the information needed to do this retrofit can been dug up from the upfitters electrical manual available at: https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/body-builder-manuals

If you plan on attempting this familiarize yourself with the information I post and this manual, it will save you some head aches.

 

Basically all you are doing is tying back the steering wheel controls to the gauge cluster on the LIN Bus (one wire, that doesn't exist if you don't have controls) and then adding the gauge cluster to the MOST bus via the stereo. This is easily done at the radio module behind the HMI (The top box, but you know this if you have upgraded to IO5 or IO6) just with the grey 8 pin connector which actually is where it shows the gauge cluster being in relation between the amplifier and the radio. You will want to put the gauge cluster in series on the most bus on wires 3 and 4 from the far right connector on the radio module. So basically you will cut these wires and where they were going in to the radio now they will go into the gauge cluster on pins 1 and 2 and the return to the radio from pins 17 and 18 on the gauge cluster, all this can be found in the upfitter manaul. Then you will want to grab the MOST enable signal from wire 7 on the connector and bring it back to the gauge cluster also, you can tap off of it.

 

If you have any questions feel free to post them here and I will try to stop in every so often and answer. PM's will go unanswered as I don't want to type the same info out 20 times so just post it here so we can have one post covering this. I will also try and post some diagrams and more pictures next week along with a link to the pins that plug in to the blank spots on the connector of the gauge cluster to add the above circuits.

 

But yes, this can be done.

 

Thanks,

Kyle

post-148500-0-72618900-1475875275_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-10696000-1475977173_thumb.png

post-148500-0-48648200-1475977174_thumb.png

post-148500-0-29748800-1475977176_thumb.png

post-148500-0-23487800-1475977178_thumb.png

post-148500-0-56518400-1475977181_thumb.png

post-148500-0-75691100-1475977182_thumb.png

post-148500-0-72618900-1475875275_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-10696000-1475977173_thumb.png

post-148500-0-48648200-1475977174_thumb.png

post-148500-0-29748800-1475977176_thumb.png

post-148500-0-23487800-1475977178_thumb.png

post-148500-0-56518400-1475977181_thumb.png

post-148500-0-75691100-1475977182_thumb.png

post-148500-0-72618900-1475875275_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-10696000-1475977173_thumb.png

post-148500-0-48648200-1475977174_thumb.png

post-148500-0-29748800-1475977176_thumb.png

post-148500-0-23487800-1475977178_thumb.png

post-148500-0-56518400-1475977181_thumb.png

post-148500-0-75691100-1475977182_thumb.png

post-148500-0-72618900-1475875275_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-10696000-1475977173_thumb.png

post-148500-0-48648200-1475977174_thumb.png

post-148500-0-29748800-1475977176_thumb.png

post-148500-0-23487800-1475977178_thumb.png

post-148500-0-56518400-1475977181_thumb.png

post-148500-0-75691100-1475977182_thumb.png

 

Edited by Eliot
Posted

Hi Everyone,

First of all thanks to Kyle and those who enriched this great mod!!!!!!!

The other subject I would like to share is that I follow up to the letter this mod and everything worked perfect, but experienced several good things for you all to knwon. First I own a 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 WT (Assembled in USA) which had io3 system. On a trip to a dismantler bussiness (El Tapatio Dismantler, near San Diego California) bought for $120 USD 10" touchscreen, HMI (2.0), Radio Module, Color cluster Gauge, and telematics module. I took my truck to a local shop in order to make the Upgrade (To io 5) and they were able to program HMI only, they could not program Cluster Gauge nor the Radio Module, therefore only 10" Touchscreen worked fine. Last weekend I started to review upgrade wiring according to pgamboa advice (Thanks for that) and found two missing wires on the HMI module, after connecting the wires the bluethooth still did not worked fine, so decided to replace io3 radio module for io5 radio module and everithing worked fine, even though owner of the shop told me they were not able to program radio module. Once I did the swap (io5 radio module replaced io3 module) bluethooth worked perfectly, radio, cd player, everything worked fine, but most surprising thing to me was that today I took the risk of doing the color cluster gauge mod without knowing if it was a compatible part number nor being programmed by whitautomedia or local shop, and everything worked perfectly!!!!

    The questions that suddenly emerged are:

   Am I a lucky bastard that found 100% compatible replacement parts for the upgrade? or only HMI module requires programming? since radio module nor cluster gauge were reprogrammed before I install the Cluster Gauge. The only indicator that appeared when I switch the car on was "Theft Deterrent active, close and open Driver Window" I did it and that was all, rigth now cluster gauge is beautifull compared to monochromatic. 

   I am attaching a bunch of pictures so you can see I am not lying about this project. I am not trying to hurt anybody´s bussines but I belive we have to realize that may be only one module needs reprogram in order for the rest of modules to activate, or maybe doing the complete rewiring will put to work the rest of the modules. I would like the input of an expert on this.

 

 

BajaKing

 

used color display cluster gauge 1.jpg

Used color display cluster gauge part number.jpg

ORIGINAL MONOCHROMATIC CLUSTER GAUGE 1.jpg

replacement cluster 7.jpg

replacement color cluster 4.jpg

replacement cluster 5.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Hi Everyone,
First of all thanks to Kyle and those who enriched this great mod!!!!!!!
The other subject I would like to share is that I follow up to the letter this mod and everything worked perfect, but experienced several good things for you all to knwon. First I own a 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 WT (Assembled in USA) which had io3 system. On a trip to a dismantler bussiness (El Tapatio Dismantler, near San Diego California) bought for $120 USD 10" touchscreen, HMI (2.0), Radio Module, Color cluster Gauge, and telematics module. I took my truck to a local shop in order to make the Upgrade (To io 5) and they were able to program HMI only, they could not program Cluster Gauge nor the Radio Module, therefore only 10" Touchscreen worked fine. Last weekend I started to review upgrade wiring according to pgamboa advice (Thanks for that) and found two missing wires on the HMI module, after connecting the wires the bluethooth still did not worked fine, so decided to replace io3 radio module for io5 radio module and everithing worked fine, even though owner of the shop told me they were not able to program radio module. Once I did the swap (io5 radio module replaced io3 module) bluethooth worked perfectly, radio, cd player, everything worked fine, but most surprising thing to me was that today I took the risk of doing the color cluster gauge mod without knowing if it was a compatible part number nor being programmed by whitautomedia or local shop, and everything worked perfectly!!!!
    The questions that suddenly emerged are:
   Am I a lucky bastard that found 100% compatible replacement parts for the upgrade? or only HMI module requires programming? since radio module nor cluster gauge were reprogrammed before I install the Cluster Gauge. The only indicator that appeared when I switch the car on was "Theft Deterrent active, close and open Driver Window" I did it and that was all, rigth now cluster gauge is beautifull compared to monochromatic. 
   I am attaching a bunch of pictures so you can see I am not lying about this project. I am not trying to hurt anybody´s bussines but I belive we have to realize that may be only one module needs reprogram in order for the rest of modules to activate, or maybe doing the complete rewiring will put to work the rest of the modules. I would like the input of an expert on this.
 
 
BajaKing
 
5b218a3845e20_usedcolordisplayclustergauge1.thumb.jpg.a9f33f91f070cdab542a443aa43726a1.jpg
5b218a46d6fc6_Usedcolordisplayclustergaugepartnumber.thumb.jpg.18d1d7c3685575a4403c107d2a0fe2e3.jpg
5b218a50252dc_ORIGINALMONOCHROMATICCLUSTERGAUGE1.jpg.d915d9642f8bb79dfcb57b3fbe3e25ab.jpg
5b218a5f516f2_replacementcluster7.thumb.jpg.efcea2edec38dc91867b3ab2c5898876.jpg
5b218a70f31c6_replacementcolorcluster4.thumb.jpg.1a3ef03ddf7bf0252c7ba2a6a476bf11.jpg
5b218aa464d16_replacementcluster5.thumb.jpg.a333b64dabb989f11411e2dd9fec59a0.jpg

Well that’s interesting


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
3 hours ago, Eliot said:

Hi Everyone,

First of all thanks to Kyle and those who enriched this great mod!!!!!!!

The other subject I would like to share is that I follow up to the letter this mod and everything worked perfect, but experienced several good things for you all to knwon. First I own a 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 WT (Assembled in USA) which had io3 system. On a trip to a dismantler bussiness (El Tapatio Dismantler, near San Diego California) bought for $120 USD 10" touchscreen, HMI (2.0), Radio Module, Color cluster Gauge, and telematics module. I took my truck to a local shop in order to make the Upgrade (To io 5) and they were able to program HMI only, they could not program Cluster Gauge nor the Radio Module, therefore only 10" Touchscreen worked fine. Last weekend I started to review upgrade wiring according to pgamboa advice (Thanks for that) and found two missing wires on the HMI module, after connecting the wires the bluethooth still did not worked fine, so decided to replace io3 radio module for io5 radio module and everithing worked fine, even though owner of the shop told me they were not able to program radio module. Once I did the swap (io5 radio module replaced io3 module) bluethooth worked perfectly, radio, cd player, everything worked fine, but most surprising thing to me was that today I took the risk of doing the color cluster gauge mod without knowing if it was a compatible part number nor being programmed by whitautomedia or local shop, and everything worked perfectly!!!!

    The questions that suddenly emerged are:

   Am I a lucky bastard that found 100% compatible replacement parts for the upgrade? or only HMI module requires programming? since radio module nor cluster gauge were reprogrammed before I install the Cluster Gauge. The only indicator that appeared when I switch the car on was "Theft Deterrent active, close and open Driver Window" I did it and that was all, rigth now cluster gauge is beautifull compared to monochromatic. 

   I am attaching a bunch of pictures so you can see I am not lying about this project. I am not trying to hurt anybody´s bussines but I belive we have to realize that may be only one module needs reprogram in order for the rest of modules to activate, or maybe doing the complete rewiring will put to work the rest of the modules. I would like the input of an expert on this.

 

 

BajaKing

 

used color display cluster gauge 1.jpg

Used color display cluster gauge part number.jpg

ORIGINAL MONOCHROMATIC CLUSTER GAUGE 1.jpg

replacement cluster 7.jpg

replacement color cluster 4.jpg

replacement cluster 5.jpg

Weird, I also have a 2017 Silverado WT, that I want to do this upgrade to, I swapped my IO3 to IO5 after programming through MVI, 8" screen, Apple Car Play, Android Auto, Bluetooth all work fine.

 

So like I asked earlier in the thread, if I have the IO5 radio, shouldn't a new cluster just plug right into the radio? I too would like to know if the cluster still requires programming for this, because I would like to add a Denali or High Country cluster.

 

Next, what do I have to do to swap my steering wheel out that has no buttons on the right side, to a steering wheel with the buttons, so I can control the cluster?

 

And BajaKing, if you had an IO3 W/T, how are you switching screens on the cluster?

Posted

Dmac1984,

I did swap the complete cluster gaige for the color clister gauge, not only the color display, but additional to this, follow the wiring mod that Kyle wrote on this thread. If I were you, will search first for a compatible color cluster gauge ( I took the risk and did all the wiring, whether the color cluster gauge was compatible or not) asking to Chris at whiteautomedia.com so you can get a compatible cluster gauge with your truck and the follow Kyle instructions on the wiring modifications and install it. If it does not work, then send it to whiteautomedia for programming. Remembre that tou are doing this at your own risk. I am sharing my risky experience which came to a happy end. 

My 2 cents.

 

BajaKing

  • Like 1

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    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
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