WT trim with Color DIC, Steering Wheel Controls, IO5 Stereo retrofit.

[Darth_Vader]

Well after some work and some digging and some wiring I have finally completed the retrofit of my RCSB Blackout (Which was the WT trim with the small radio) to have the IO5 stereo, Color DIC Gauge Cluster and Heated Steering wheel with all the controls working, both the DIC and the stereo controls work. I would guess that total I have about $2000 tied up in all of this so it can get costly and it isn't for the feint of heart, you will be cutting into factory wires. This will only work if you have the IO4 option code, if you have the IO3 stereo you are probably out of luck.

 

Gauge cluster programming was provided by Chris over at WAMS, I highly suggest going to Chris for all your custom module programming needs. He is a busy guy so if you have questions on this swap you will want to post them here as Chris won't be able to help you out with anything other than providing the custom programming for the cluster. You can request prices from his site at: http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/

 

All of the information needed to do this retrofit can been dug up from the upfitters electrical manual available at: https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/body-builder-manuals

If you plan on attempting this familiarize yourself with the information I post and this manual, it will save you some head aches.

 

Basically all you are doing is tying back the steering wheel controls to the gauge cluster on the LIN Bus (one wire, that doesn't exist if you don't have controls) and then adding the gauge cluster to the MOST bus via the stereo. This is easily done at the radio module behind the HMI (The top box, but you know this if you have upgraded to IO5 or IO6) just with the grey 8 pin connector which actually is where it shows the gauge cluster being in relation between the amplifier and the radio. You will want to put the gauge cluster in series on the most bus on wires 3 and 4 from the far right connector on the radio module. So basically you will cut these wires and where they were going in to the radio now they will go into the gauge cluster on pins 1 and 2 and the return to the radio from pins 17 and 18 on the gauge cluster, all this can be found in the upfitter manaul. Then you will want to grab the MOST enable signal from wire 7 on the connector and bring it back to the gauge cluster also, you can tap off of it.

 

If you have any questions feel free to post them here and I will try to stop in every so often and answer. PM's will go unanswered as I don't want to type the same info out 20 times so just post it here so we can have one post covering this. I will also try and post some diagrams and more pictures next week along with a link to the pins that plug in to the blank spots on the connector of the gauge cluster to add the above circuits.

 

But yes, this can be done.

 

Thanks,

Kyle

Edited October 9, 2016 by Darth_Vader

[pgamboa]

This is awesome! I started looking at your posts about the heated steering wheel mod. I just bought a wheel yesterday from ebay. My model is a 2016 CCSB LT. So I already have radio controls, phone controls, cruise control and such just not the heated option. Is it difficult to remove the steering wheel and airbag? I haven't found a good video showing it on 2014-2017. That's the part I am most uncomfortable with. Did you also have to have the clock spring I've been hearing about so that you have the circuits needed for some of the wheel controls?

 

 

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Edited October 7, 2016 by pgamboa

[carlosdsanchez]

would like to do the exact same thing on 2015 wt any info would be appreciated

[Darth_Vader]

This is awesome! I started looking at your posts about the heated steering wheel mod. I just bought a wheel yesterday from ebay. My model is a 2016 CCSB LT. So I already have radio controls, phone controls, cruise control and such just not the heated option. Is it difficult to remove the steering wheel and airbag? I haven't found a good video showing it on 2014-2017. That's the part I am most uncomfortable with. Did you also have to have the clock spring I've been hearing about so that you have the circuits needed for some of the wheel controls?

 

 

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Yeah, I have the clock spring with the heater wires. You will need it. You will see the connector on the wheel for the heater. If you have any issues once you get the clock spring let me know and I will dig it back up and see what all I had to do. It has been awhile.

 

Removing the airbag is easy enough, click here for my other post where I have the photo showing the wire to pry on to pop the bag loose. Other than that it is just a couple of plugs and a big nut. For the clock spring there is a retainer ring is all, pretty straight forward.

would like to do the exact same thing on 2015 wt any info would be appreciated

I'll post in depth pics of the wiring diagrams and such next week. Keep an eye out.

[cbrsilv15]

You insert a small screwdriver on both sides of the wheel to apply pressure and push the spring fastener in to release the bag.

 

[pgamboa]

Thanks for the info on airbag removal. I saw the pic in one of your other posts about the clip that needs to get pried up to remove.

 

Does your steering wheel have the button above the heater? Don't know what it's for or what it's called. Any info on the clock spring would be great (like part #). Everything I've searched for online shows the clock spring as a discontinued part for 2016.

 

 

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[pgamboa]

I have the 2016 upfitter and will be looking at all relevant schematics.

 

Also, since I'm only adding the heated wheel and have most everything else, I'm thinking I don't need a reprogram of anything? I'm guessing the heat is just power and ground connections.

 

 

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[Darth_Vader]

Do not follow these instructions. There is no reason to cut on your steering wheel. You can do it by using these directions.

 

 

You insert a small screwdriver on both sides of the wheel to apply pressure and push the spring fastener in to release the bag.

 

 

 

Edited October 8, 2016 by Darth_Vader

[Darth_Vader]

Thanks for the info on airbag removal. I saw the pic in one of your other posts about the clip that needs to get pried up to remove.

 

Does your steering wheel have the button above the heater? Don't know what it's for or what it's called. Any info on the clock spring would be great (like part #). Everything I've searched for online shows the clock spring as a discontinued part for 2016.

 

 

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Part number for heated wheel clock spring is 23193462, it is listed as discontinued but you can find it on sites like ebay. For the heated wheel all it is getting power and ground, I would have to double check but the power might already be in the harness on the stalk side.

 

My wheel doesn't have the button above the heater, that is for the auto cruise distance control if I remember right, I had it on my '14 LTZ and know it has to do with that or the anti-collision warning stuff.

 

The regular clock spring will pass on the steering wheel controls for those wanting to do the upgrade to steering wheel controls. You only need the new clock spring for the heated steering wheel.

Edited October 8, 2016 by Darth_Vader

[pgamboa]

Thanks for the info! Will look into this and will take my time .

 

 

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[pgamboa]

So I found the clock spring that was categorized as "Electrical, Air Bag Components" and it shows a Clock Spring for 2016 LTZ - "Clockspring - Modules & Sensors, W/HTD Strng Wheel". For $48.81?! Others are like $140-$150. The diagrams appear to be the same. Curious are the dramatic price differences.

 

 

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When I search for the same item under "Steering" categories, they all show discontinued there. Really weird.

 

 

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[PMattras]

In my opinion spending over $2,000 plus labor would have been better spent getting an LT trim level which would have a better trade in value and more options. Especially on the deals and rebates they are offering now. Most people ordering a WT or LS trim just want a plain truck with the basic options or some additional chrome to use for work or just use as a truck should be used. All these upgrades wouldn't be covered under the warranty as well. I usually buy the LS trim level but now it is getting harder and harder to get some of the nice options offered on other trim levels. I.E. you can't get the CD any more on the LS or WT truck models.

Edited October 8, 2016 by PMattras

[Darth_Vader]

So I found the clock spring that was categorized as "Electrical, Air Bag Components" and it shows a Clock Spring for 2016 LTZ - "Clockspring - Modules & Sensors, W/HTD Strng Wheel". For $48.81?! Others are like $140-$150. The diagrams appear to be the same. Curious are the dramatic price differences.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I search for the same item under "Steering" categories, they all show discontinued there. Really weird.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yeah, that seems very cheap. I think I found mine for around $110.

[Darth_Vader]

In my opinion spending over $2,000 plus labor would have been better spent getting an LT trim level which would have a better trade in value and more options. Especially on the deals and rebates they are offering now. Most people ordering a WT or LS trim just want a plain truck with the basic options or some additional chrome to use for work or just use as a truck should be used. All these upgrades wouldn't be covered under the warranty as well. I usually buy the LS trim level but now it is getting harder and harder to get some of the nice options offered on other trim levels. I.E. you can't get the CD any more on the LS or WT truck models.

 

To get these options you would have to buy an LT which is $6,000 over the price of a WT. So at that math I am still $4,000 ahead. At this point I have actually added everything that the LT trim would add for less than half the price of the package upgrade.

 

Added pictures of the wiring diagrams and harnesses to the original post.

Edited October 9, 2016 by Darth_Vader

[PMattras]

 

To get these options you would have to buy an LT which is $6,000 over the price of a WT. So at that math I am still $4,000 ahead. At this point I have actually added everything that the LT trim would add for less than half the price of the package upgrade.

 

Added pictures of the wiring diagrams and harnesses to the original post.

 

Maybe if you look at listed prices (sticker price) you are correct but with the discounts, rebates and dealing the $6,000 price comes down a lot especially when you can purchase the vehicle on the lot. I found out it was very hard to get a fully equipment regular cab WT/LS model in April where right now I could get an LT for the same price or a little less with more options. Usually a double cab has a $3,000 - $3,500 difference in sticker price over a regular cab but with the better rebates/discounts etc. on double cabs - the price is a lot less. GM and other dealerships are having a very hard time selling off their 2016 right now. This has been in the news. It all depends when you purchased the truck and how you worked out the price.

 

Installing these options has no increase trade in value and there is no warranty coverage because it is going to be looked as a WT/LS trim level truck. I know right now I could get an LT for far less than $6,000 sticker price and maybe some what a little over $2,000 but I also would get some more additional options other that is mentioned here as well. There would be also a savings on your additional labor time (which is not counted) and possible issues or problems with your warranty.

 

If I was looking for a second hand truck, I only look for a truck with the regular stock items for that trim level. I don't need any future trouble. Some dealerships mark these improvements down on the trade in as well.

 

I don't see a $4,000 being ahead - maybe a little but a loss in the trade in because it is still a WT trim level truck.

Edited October 9, 2016 by PMattras