Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Do you have to change cluster just to have the radio control buttons, I have the wt truck Upgraded the radio to the 8" screen etc from mvi, I wouldn't mind just have the radio buttons and voice command on my wheel

Posted

Do you have to change cluster just to have the radio control buttons, I have the wt truck Upgraded the radio to the 8" screen etc from mvi, I wouldn't mind just have the radio buttons and voice command on my wheel

Yes.
  • Like 1
Posted

Do you have to change cluster just to have the radio control buttons, I have the wt truck Upgraded the radio to the 8" screen etc from mvi, I wouldn't mind just have the radio buttons and voice command on my wheel

 

I assure you, it is worth the money to upgrade the cluster if you are wanting the steering wheel controls.

Posted

 

I assure you, it is worth the money to upgrade the cluster if you are wanting the steering wheel controls.

 

now I don't want the heated wheel, how much wiring am I looking at lol and if you could message me the parts I need lmao looks like I'm gonna go for it

Posted

now I don't want the heated wheel, how much wiring am I looking at lol and if you could message me the parts I need lmao looks like I'm gonna go for it

First post. You just don't need the new clock spring. All the rest applies. I think there is a link to the terminals on page two of this topic.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Darth_Vader, on 07 Oct 2016 - 2:31 PM, said:snapback.png

Well after some work and some digging and some wiring I have finally completed the retrofit of my RCSB Blackout (Which was the WT trim with the small radio) to have the IO5 stereo, Color DIC Gauge Cluster and Heated Steering wheel with all the controls working, both the DIC and the stereo controls work. I would guess that total I have about $2000 tied up in all of this so it can get costly and it isn't for the feint of heart, you will be cutting into factory wires. This will only work if you have the IO4 option code, if you have the IO3 stereo you are probably out of luck.

 

Gauge cluster programming was provided by Chris over at WAMS, I highly suggest going to Chris for all your custom module programming needs. He is a busy guy so if you have questions on this swap you will want to post them here as Chris won't be able to help you out with anything other than providing the custom programming for the cluster. You can request prices from his site at: http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/

 

All of the information needed to do this retrofit can been dug up from the upfitters electrical manual available at: https://www.gmupfitt...builder-manuals

If you plan on attempting this familiarize yourself with the information I post and this manual, it will save you some head aches.

 

Basically all you are doing is tying back the steering wheel controls to the gauge cluster on the LIN Bus (one wire, that doesn't exist if you don't have controls) and then adding the gauge cluster to the MOST bus via the stereo. This is easily done at the radio module behind the HMI (The top box, but you know this if you have upgraded to IO5 or IO6) just with the grey 8 pin connector which actually is where it shows the gauge cluster being in relation between the amplifier and the radio. You will want to put the gauge cluster in series on the most bus on wires 3 and 4 from the far right connector on the radio module. So basically you will cut these wires and where they were going in to the radio now they will go into the gauge cluster on pins 1 and 2 and the return to the radio from pins 17 and 18 on the gauge cluster, all this can be found in the upfitter manaul. Then you will want to grab the MOST enable signal from wire 7 on the connector and bring it back to the gauge cluster also, you can tap off of it.

 

If you have any questions feel free to post them here and I will try to stop in every so often and answer. PM's will go unanswered as I don't want to type the same info out 20 times so just post it here so we can have one post covering this. I will also try and post some diagrams and more pictures next week along with a link to the pins that plug in to the blank spots on the connector of the gauge cluster to add the above circuits.

 

But yes, this can be done.

 

Thanks,

Kyle

 

Hello, I'm a noob at this and attempting to glean enough to do the wiring mod you describe here. I already did the I06 upgrade and received the new upgraded programmed cluster from WAMS. I went through the upfitters manual you mentioned (long, geez), however, you already uploaded all the appropriate pages in your post. I'm pretty sure I get all the wiring instructions you've provided, but am fuzzy on what I need to get specifically to do this job.

 

Questions:

 

Do I need to purchase "pins" to go into "pin 1 & 2" and "pin 17 & 18" for do they already exist in the factory connector? If they are already factory installed, it's just a matter of removing them, crimping them on a new wire, then running them back to their new connection point, correct? Are there special tools required for this?

 

Is it an option to purchase an aftermarket harness and cannabalize what I need since it will have the wires and pins already or is there an easier/better way?

 

Sorry for all the questions, I've never done anything like this before.

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

Posted

 

Darth_Vader, on 07 Oct 2016 - 2:31 PM, said:snapback.png

 

Hello, I'm a noob at this and attempting to glean enough to do the wiring mod you describe here. I already did the I06 upgrade and received the new upgraded programmed cluster from WAMS. I went through the upfitters manual you mentioned (long, geez), however, you already uploaded all the appropriate pages in your post. I'm pretty sure I get all the wiring instructions you've provided, but am fuzzy on what I need to get specifically to do this job.

 

Questions:

 

Do I need to purchase "pins" to go into "pin 1 & 2" and "pin 17 & 18" for do they already exist in the factory connector? If they are already factory installed, it's just a matter of removing them, crimping them on a new wire, then running them back to their new connection point, correct? Are there special tools required for this?

 

Is it an option to purchase an aftermarket harness and cannabalize what I need since it will have the wires and pins already or is there an easier/better way?

 

Sorry for all the questions, I've never done anything like this before.

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

 

You have to buy the pins, and it would be way easier to buy them and a crimper than to try and cannibalize an existing harness. I would suggest buying a crimper for the size pins involved but you could probably get away with manually crimping them with a pair of pliers or something, I used to do things like that back in the day but you are better off buying a crimper.

Posted

 

You have to buy the pins, and it would be way easier to buy them and a crimper than to try and cannibalize an existing harness. I would suggest buying a crimper for the size pins involved but you could probably get away with manually crimping them with a pair of pliers or something, I used to do things like that back in the day but you are better off buying a crimper.

 

 

You mentioned sizes for these pins, do you know what size/type they are? After looking briefly online, it appears there are many. Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

 

 

You mentioned sizes for these pins, do you know what size/type they are? After looking briefly online, it appears there are many. Thanks!

If you look at each drawing of the connectors on the first page of the thread, if a part # is listed under "Service Terminal", you can typically find them that way. If one is not listed, perform a google search for the connector description. Most results will return Mouser for the source.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by pgamboa
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

So:

 

928999-5 and SAIT-A03T-M064 are the terminals. Also, the description for the clock spring looks close to the Radio connector. Order extras if you've never crimped these terminals before.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by pgamboa
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

If you look at each drawing of the connectors on the first page of the thread, if a part # is listed under "Service Terminal", you can typically find them that way. If one is not listed, perform a google search for the connector description. Most results will return Mouser for the source.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Thanks for the details, extremely helpful.

Edited by fivepointo65
  • Like 1
Posted

Page two I posted links for the pins and crimpers on amazon.

 

Wow, thanks for all the pictures and links to order, super helpful...Thanks Kyle and Phil!

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Wow, thanks for all the pictures and links to order, super helpful...Thanks Kyle and Phil!

 

Sure thing, if you have any issues just post on here or IM me and I will try to help you out but I think all of it is covered in one form or another on this topic.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I own a 2015 Silverado LS and recently followed the instructions for swapping the basic DIC out with the full color DIC and adding steering controls. The instructions were flawless and very easy to follow. After having a new cluster programmed by WAM (White Auto and Media) I was able to install the new cluster with minimal wiring in about 3 hours. The hardest part was removing the air bag (once removed it becomes clear how it detaches which is not obvious while its still in tact). Kudos to Darth_Vader and WAM automotive for the detailed info and programming. I was a little hesitant to mess with wiring but the direction given is so clear and accurate I went for it and am glad I did. Thanks guys.........

post-173579-0-70994300-1496712545_thumb.jpg

post-173579-0-70994300-1496712545_thumb.jpg

post-173579-0-70994300-1496712545_thumb.jpg

post-173579-0-70994300-1496712545_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...