Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
9 minutes ago, richamor said:

If all you want is the steering wheel controls I would guess that you just need to get the wheel and do the wiring. Mine worked with my IO4 unit so I see no reason it wouldn’t work with yours. 

Harltech got it to work on his ios 4.  Ios 4 and up i think it will work.  Iob is awhole different story

  • Like 1
Posted

Here is my scan please confirm the IOB that I am correct

1GCVKPEC7JZ353506,2018,CK15753,05,18,06,VXNV0M, AE7 AXK AY0 C5Z C67 DL8 EF7 E63 FHO FWI GBA H2R IOB I18 JD9 L83 MAH MYC NK5 NTB NZN QT0 RC4 RUF UDC UQ3 U2K V8D WMJ X88 Z60 1CX 4D7 6YB 7YB 8X2 9X2,8555,,,,

 

are there more codes codes after the ,,,,,,,, at the end I tried four QR readers including one that wasn’t free

thanks again

Posted
3 hours ago, Nasty said:

Iob radios dont have an hmi if i remember right. Dont quote me on this but i dont think theres anything you can do.  You can get nav and backup cam though. From MVI

See the 2 blank tabs in the picture ? That's where the HMI would be if my 2016 WT truck had one.   RPO code IOB, 7 inch color screen. You also have to get creative if you want to add the full floor console since there is no HMI to plug in to.

HMI.JPG

Posted
If all you want is the steering wheel controls I would guess that you just need to get the wheel and do the wiring. Mine worked with my IO4 unit so I see no reason it wouldn’t work with yours. 
Wait wait wait. Did you have a wt cluster and added steering wheel controls and did the wiring and it worked? Or did you change cluster and did the wiring while keeping the io4 module?

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I had the IO4 radio and WT DIC cluster. I kept the IO4, replaced the cluster and steering wheel, did the wiring as per instructions, and it worked great. I just changed the radio to the 8” touchscreen with Apple CarPlay and it all works. Backup cam as well.

 

If I remember correctly someone said, because I had to ask, that the steering wheel controls wouldn't work with the WT cluster. So swapping the wheel and cluster is the first order of business.

Edited by richamor
Posted

@mloco575, did you say that you got a Denali cluster to work with steering wheel controls in an IO3 truck? That's great! Can you please confirm and provide details? 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I am about to do this. 2016 2500hd plow prep IO3. Got my denali cluster from wams, wheel and cluster installed (currently no button backlighting) , and an alpine restyle. Cant grasp how the one wire will make it work, but I also only installed the basics with the alpine. Just need the crimper and pin. ?  

  • Like 1
Posted
I am about to do this. 2016 2500hd plow prep IO3. Got my denali cluster from wams, wheel and cluster installed (currently no button backlighting) , and an alpine restyle. Cant grasp how the one wire will make it work, but I also only installed the basics with the alpine. Just need the crimper and pin. [emoji1696]  

It’s because the one wire is a MOST Serial Data Bus circuit which is a a high speed multimedia network technology used in the automotive industry ([emoji3]copied from Wikipedia).

So this one wire between the steering wheel controls, cluster, and Radio, is responsible for that side of the communication.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, Dunph said:

I am about to do this. 2016 2500hd plow prep IO3. Got my denali cluster from wams, wheel and cluster installed (currently no button backlighting) , and an alpine restyle. Cant grasp how the one wire will make it work, but I also only installed the basics with the alpine. Just need the crimper and pin. ?  

I was sceptical aswell but it worked in my I03 truck. I figured it was a power wire or something. 

Posted

I get that. Thanks for all your help in the past by the way. You have been incredibly helpful! Still not sure how it's going to provide constant power to my steering wheel for the button lights. Also, I don't have an HMI unit I have the idata maestro and the Alpine. The Maestro will need to be pulled and reprogrammed now that I have the buttons. However, if there's no pin in that current hole, im not sure it will work. Mind you I'm not absolutely sure where the signal get sent out of the cluster to this radio if the other 5 wires aren't sending signal. The alpine plugs into the old among other things and may get data there

Posted

I just find it hard to believe that  it will provide constant power to the back lighting and be communication  to the cluster. Maybe the communication back from the cluster tells it to turn on? When you installed your Alpine, did you use the extra pigtail that goes in line? I'm going to inspect it tomorrow to see if I can tap into that

Posted

Well I got excited and thought I had the right terminals. They're a touch too big. Looks like shipping for these terminals is about 2 weeks from what I can see. I then decided to tear apart  some old electronics to try and find some . No luck. Anyone got a couple they can send me in the mail? I would happily shoot over some beer money

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

*** IO3/ Alpine restyle/ Denali cluster UPDATE ***

I received my Denali cluster again. It was acting up the first time. WAMS fixed it. I added the wire from the wheel to the cluster, and my issue with the steering wheel lights is solved. It was the communication. Next order of business is to reprogram the idata maestro. hopefully I wont need to add the other communication wires, or I can decipher how to run them directly to the maestro unit. The only issue I have, is that it says "Service power steering" every time I start the truck. A minor irritation, but I would like it sorted. Any ideas? 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Has anyone who originally had an IO3 and upgraded to IO5/IO6 with an MVI kit been able to add the cluster into the MOST circuit? I have a WAMS-programmed Denali cluster that works on its own and now talks with leather steering wheel after adding LINBUS wire. I’ve added the 5 new MOST wires IN/OUT of the cluster into every possible location between radio, HMI, and CD player but I cannot get it all to work. I have noticed that MVI’s harness kit changes the order of MOST circuit devices. Whereas the GM spec shows Radio->CD Player->HMI->Cluster->Radio the MVI kit is Radio->HMI->CD->Radio. Any help appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,000 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...