Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

0.0625''? that seems like a mile. how did they check it? did it have ton of weight on it? I'd expect .015'' as normal.

It's in my first post...

 

RT

Edited by 07Softail
Posted

Well I hope it works out as you said it did for you. You should send the bill to your dealership to handle this. Lol

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

Well I hope it works out as you said it did for you. You should send the bill to your dealership to handle this. Lol

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I thought of doing that, but I'm just glad the saga is over.

 

RT

Posted (edited)

Years ago I had vibration in my 1995 Nissan pickup that felt just like tires badly out of balance. It turns out that the driveshaft center support bearing rubber bushing got torn and the driveshaft was free to vibrate. I found the problem myself just by inspecting the driveshaft and being able to physically move it up and down about 1/2 inch. $ 110 later for a new bearing assembly and some work, I fixed the problem. So yes, vibrating driveshaft can produce symptoms very similar to badly balanced wheels.

Edited by pm26
Posted

It's in my first post...

 

RT

I work in a machine shop. What is the tolerance for runout, or how close did the shop get yours?

Posted (edited)

They shoot for .005 and less and mine was .0627 from factory. Glen also said AAM uses cheap tubing made in mexico on their driveshafts compared to Wansley Machine made in the U.S. tubing which is nice looking and very very straight to begin with and easier to hit the lower runout numbers.

 

RT

Edited by 07Softail
Posted (edited)

They shoot for .005 and less and mine was .0627 from factory. Glen also said AAM uses cheap tubing made in mexico on their driveshafts compared to Wansley Machine made in the U.S. tubing which is nice looking and very very straight to begin with and easier to hit the lower runout numbers.

 

RT

I wonder if your driveshaft was also balanced wrong (or not balanced at all).

Edited by pm26
Posted (edited)

07Softail,

 

Do you mind sharing who and where in Mississippi fixed your drive shaft. I need to pay them a visit.

 

Thank you in advance.

Edited by randrball
Posted

I know this is a long shot but does anybody know a competent shop in the Tampa Bay area? I need to look into this.

Posted

I wonder if your driveshaft was also balanced wrong (or not balanced at all).

Damn man... how many times do I have to say it was NOT OUT OF BALANCE....They trued it first and checked balance and it was fine. No other weight was added and I looked to see when i picked it up.

 

RT

  • Like 1
Posted

Before you had it trued, did you ever put your truck in neutral while it was shaking/vibrating?

Posted

Before you had it trued, did you ever put your truck in neutral while it was shaking/vibrating?

Mine has the shake, and it still shakes while in neutral. The driveshaft is still spinning.

Posted

Good to know. Mine still shakes if I throw it in neutral going down the highway too. I was curious because my previous truck, a 2000 Silverado z71 with a dented up driveshaft & worn out u-joints, would stop shaking if I put it in neutral while driving. Whenever I get some time off, I'm going to drop my driveshaft off at a specialist

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...