Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Damn man... how many times do I have to say it was NOT OUT OF BALANCE....They trued it first and checked balance and it was fine. No other weight was added and I looked to see when i picked it up.

 

RT

Sorry, I did not read your first post carefully enough.

Edited by pm26
Posted

It has been a week since I have taken the driveshaft to a driveline specialist and I have not felt any 75+ mph vibrations since. Runout was good, but the rear weight was slightly off so they stripped off all the weights and rebalanced it. I had weird vibrations that would come and go depending on if I was going slightly uphill or slightly downhill. I highly suggest taking the driveshaft to a specialist.

Posted (edited)

It has been a week since I have taken the driveshaft to a driveline specialist and I have not felt any 75+ mph vibrations since. Runout was good, but the rear weight was slightly off so they stripped off all the weights and rebalanced it. I had weird vibrations that would come and go depending on if I was going slightly uphill or slightly downhill. I highly suggest taking the driveshaft to a specialist.

What did it costvto have it balanced? Where did you have it done?

Edited by Bikemobile
  • Like 1
Posted

50$ at Texas Driveshafts & PTO. But they said they were closing their business on Nov 3rd. If your looking to get it done in the Tyler/East Texas, there is WC Supply in Tyler and Longview Driveshaft & 4x4

  • Like 1
Posted

Something doesn't quite make sense here. While I do not, in any way, suggest that a wonky driveshaft can't make a ton of vibration - it CERTAINLY can - something isn't making sense here.

 

You that say that the driveshaft was "perfectly balanced" yet, "out of round"? Ok, that's all fine and dandy. A crankshaft is typically pretty far from "round", yet near perfectly balanced. Yet, they don't usually cause any issue. Balance is balance, doesn't matter how round it is or isn't. (disclaimer, mass and stiffness both begin to play a big roll in that general statement at some point, which may be what is at play here)

 

So, they trued the shaft. That means that they removed the high spots. Removed mass. This changes the balance. This introduces imbalance which is going to shake by pure definition. So as you described the process, it should have made it shake MORE...not less.

 

To be clear, I'm not suggesting that what they did, didn't fix your shake. Your observations are what they are, and clearly they are positive and I don't question that. But for those who want to get to the root cause of this obviously pervasive issue, a little more detail would be most helpful.

Posted

My drive shaft wasn't trued. The runout was checked and it was good. Mine was improper balanced from the factory (or somehow became unbalanced, I bought the truck used) and then taking the weights off and rebalancing it stopped my vibs

Posted

Once heard, maybe a post in the old Mechanix Illustrated mag, that a quick and dirty way to check driveshaft balance is to place a large radiator hose clamp around the shaft attaching a small fishing weight. Mark the shaft/clamp in segments and run the vehicle a few times each time rotating the clamp/weight to a different position around the shaft. If the shaft is balanced the vibrations should increase evenly at each position, but if it gets better in certain positions, the shaft may have thrown a welded balance weight or been not balance properly at the factory.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Something doesn't quite make sense here. While I do not, in any way, suggest that a wonky driveshaft can't make a ton of vibration - it CERTAINLY can - something isn't making sense here.

 

You that say that the driveshaft was "perfectly balanced" yet, "out of round"? Ok, that's all fine and dandy. A crankshaft is typically pretty far from "round", yet near perfectly balanced. Yet, they don't usually cause any issue. Balance is balance, doesn't matter how round it is or isn't. (disclaimer, mass and stiffness both begin to play a big roll in that general statement at some point, which may be what is at play here)

 

So, they trued the shaft. That means that they removed the high spots. Removed mass. This changes the balance. This introduces imbalance which is going to shake by pure definition. So as you described the process, it should have made it shake MORE...not less.

 

To be clear, I'm not suggesting that what they did, didn't fix your shake. Your observations are what they are, and clearly they are positive and I don't question that. But for those who want to get to the root cause of this obviously pervasive issue, a little more detail would be most helpful.

No the drive shaft looked like a jump rope when the put it in the machine and spun it.

 

RT

Posted

Anyone try getting their 2 piece driveshaft aligned? I understand the single shaft causing vibration, but the exact same vibration with a 2 piece shaft?

  • 1 year later...
Posted

On the interstate I keep my speed locked in at 70mph to save gas and to keep the state troopers in check. The other day a friend of mine needed a ride to pick up his vehicle as they were closing soon. I got on the interstate and pushed it up to 80mph. The whole truck was shaking very bad. I slowed down until the shaking stopped. (70mph) I gradually increased speed. When I reached around 76mph the shaking started. My brand new truck had almost 6000 at the time. Being really pissed, I dropped off my friend and went home and got on my computer and googled shaking 2017 chevy silverado. I found this site and saw where many others were having the same problem. I took my truck to my dealer the next day. A technician spoke with me. He stated he new what was wrong. He said the steering gear bushings needed replacing with the updated ones. They gave me a loaner car and went home. I kept thinking how would a steering gear cause the truck to shake that bad. It seemed like the drive shaft would have been bad. A few days later they called and said the truck was ready. I got on the interstate and took it up to 100mph. NO SHAKE!! It was fixed. Not sure if there is a service bulletin out. It was in warranty and didn't cost anything. On my invoice there was a spot called STEERING. Under that it stated "DIAGNOSE, STEERING BUSHINGS ARE NOT THE UPDATED BUSHINGS, REPLACED STEERING GEAR BUSHINGS AS PER SI AND TEST DROVE". It no longer shakes. I hope I have helped someone out. As a side note, when I first got there to drop off the truck, I saw my ASSIGNED REP out smoking. I went out and smoked with him. I started a casual conversation. I asked him if he ever had angry people to deal with. He said once there was a guy that showed up to pick his truck up. The customer started arguing with him. The bill was over $600.00. He said he wasn't going to pay over $300.00. The rep said he reviewed the bill and saw where he made a $50.00 mistake. He fixed that mistake. He then (somehow) juggled the numbers around and got the bill under $300.00. Sounds weird, but this is what he told me and I believe it. We all know about car dealers. Another time, when I took my truck in for its first oil change at 5000 miles, I pulled in and the person that greeted me put some kind of clamps on my tires. I asked my service rep what those were. He stated it would tell them if the truck was in alignment. He then printed off some paperwork and said the front end was out of alignment and was going to cost $139.00. I asked the technician about that. He said there was to be no charge because it was in warranty. After all this BS, I went home. I then started receiving e-mails from the "Customer Experience Manager" wanting me to give the rep all 10's as a score so the rep wouldn't get in trouble. I didn't respond. Then I got e-mails from GM in Detroit wanting to know my "overall experience". I decided I better give her all 10's and recommend my dealer. I'm sure my comments will be stored in the database. Don't want them to sabotage my truck on the next visit. Tied of my rant yet? OK, one final item. The transmission had to be replace just over 4000 miles. The truck looks good. Looks can be deceiving.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I bought a 2015 Silverado 1500 LS Custom Double Cab in February that had a nasty shake starting around 75MPH. I had the tires balanced but it didn't help. I went to the dealer since it had CPO warranty and they wanted to try a road force balance. When I picked it up the advisor said they got the balance better but the tires just wouldn't balance properly and they recommended new tires. 

 

 

 

The tires were the OEM Goodyear Wranglers. Even after the road force I still had a shake though it wasn't as bad. I ended up getting new tires Firestone Destination LE2, and the shake seems to be gone. 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

We'll, today is the day I get my 2015 Sierra checked out for the infamous Chevy Shake.

Started small with having the tires checked for out of balance, I was told they couldn't get them balanced any better than what they already are.......check that one off the list. 

Get most of the Shakes at around 35mph, and intermittent after that, like occasionally hitting the rumble strips. Pretty frustrating buying a truck with only 6,300 miles on it and it needs work, I really wish it would have vibrated during our test drive. 

I'm hoping I can take the information on this forum and relay it to the mechanic today, sounds to me like he/she might find it useful.

Wish me Luck!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I feel better now for my own view point and actions or lack there of towards the dealership service theme reading your post and others. GM corporate is who offers the two free oil changes on the HD trucks and I bought my truck in Feb of 2025 and those oil change offers run out within 2 years I believe and I highly doubt I will be using either one of them. I had asked if I could officially give those free services to another customer ( a friend ) and they said no, its all a GM corporate thing based on the vehicle in question. What that service advisor did however was go into a little story about how such and such customer was denied engine warranty because he had done his own oil changes because then they are not documented ... you see where that goes and so an employee playing the game of scaring the customer into having the service work done there most certainly triggered my thought process. At a later date I did talk to the person who handles warranty claims at the dealership and she said to be sure to document the oil changes and keep receipts for the oil and filter ( coped the receipts from cases of Mobil oil and case of filters I bought from them ) and the vehicles VIN, the date of service, mileage etc and staple that together as a record I would give them if that was ever needed and I keep my own log book for services for each vehicle as well. Oh and about 8 months after I bought the truck the dealer starts calling me to offer a maintenance service since they haven't seen my vehicle show up on their system ... for the mere fee of 300.00 Canadian to change the oil and rotate the tires and a few other minor checks and I declined the offer, I get the call again a couple of months later for the same thing and she could tell I was not interested and she asked if they should take my name off the call list and I said yes, do that !.    By the way did you happen to keep your factory oil filter to open it up and see the surprises inside as I expect some will show up as per the odd little sliver of metal shaving and particles that the filter does trap along with bits of grey silicone sealer that come off of the inside edge of mating surfaces. I have cut open every filter so far on my truck although few miles but have changed the oil often and the second filter was vastly better with very little of anything, that first filter was the unsettling one as I expected it would be. 
    • I get why they do this…but man…not ideal. I only extract on inboard boat engines because the drains are buried and even then I hate it because it’s easy to leave a quart behind with that method.   They should market it as an “oil refresh” not oil change!
    • I only get oil changed where I can watch. Valvoline pulls through the dipstick into a see thru glass. When done they show me the dipstick. About the only way they can mess up is using the wrong oil. But that secret wouldn’t stay secret long. Honda uses TQ wrenches on everything. You can watch through a plate glass window. Discount tires does that with tires. Trust but verify. 
    • I would not argue that with you. It would be pointless to argue against the truth and you speak the truth.    My question and in fact the entire point of this thread is an exploration into the levers of wear which happens no matter how well we maintain our powertrains.    Some of these levers we exert a good deal of influence over which can and do result is lower wear, longer powertrain life. Some others we are sort of stuck with.    An engine is typically done when the ring to bore seal no longer is able to do the job effectively. Normally the first thing to go in a engine otherwise well maintained and adult driven is this seal.    Looking into the means, methods, products and attitudes that influence the rate of wear seems a worthwhile inquiry to me.     
    • try tapping the pump lightly and see if it starts, if it doesn't then the pump needs replaced, i think it will put the engine in limp mode if you drive it
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...