Jump to content

2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 engine failure

docsol

By docsol
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

shrekmoose Enthusiast

shrekmoose

Posted
Posted

These engines don't make enough vacuum for the brakes, That's why they use pumps for the brake booster

 

Alright I looked at the datalogs from my Autocal on EFI Live. It looks like my lowest manifold pressure was roughly 24 kPa (AFM disabled). Atmospheric pressure is 101 kPa. So 77 kPa is approx 22.7 inHg.

 

Any advantage of using the purge valve over the PCV barb on the side of the manifold?

It seems like its gonna make plenty in V8 mode which my truck will forever be stuck in after my dealer appointment on thursday.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply
shrekmoose Enthusiast

shrekmoose

Posted
Posted

this vacuum pump failure has me wondering that this has been my V4 tick all along. I had some serious motor work done already and nothing.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/188701-engine-tick-2015-gmc-sierra-53/?do=findComment&comment=1825622

 

i'm at 45,000 km of my 60,000 total warranty and 160,000 powertrain

The way you explain that under light load it may be detonation. have you tried running some premium through it to see if it helps any?

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

 

It seems like its gonna make plenty in V8 mode which my truck will forever be stuck in after my dealer appointment on thursday.

Thats good to know.

 

RT

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

It seems like its gonna make plenty in V8 mode which my truck will forever be stuck in after my dealer appointment on thursday.

 

The dealer won't turn off your AFM system. You're stuck with either tuning the truck to disable it, using a Range AFM disable dongle, or just settling for driving in "M5" or "M7(6?)". You could also do a true AFM delete: new lifters, cam, etc.

shrekmoose Enthusiast

shrekmoose

Posted
Posted

The dealer won't turn off your AFM system. You're stuck with either tuning the truck to disable it, using a Range AFM disable dongle, or just settling for driving in "M5" or "M7(6?)". You could also do a true AFM delete: new lifters, cam, etc.

Yea I know the dealer wont i just had a day scheduled already to take it in for the whining motor. But DBR here will be doing all of my tuning very soon.

shrekmoose Enthusiast

shrekmoose

Posted
Posted

OK back to the top tuner had to send my OS to EFI live so they could change it tune should be flashed monday morning. AFM will be off for good at that point and ill be looking into a way to get rid of this pump. Anyone know how to tell how much vacuum is required to run the brake system exactly?

2strokesmoke Enthusiast

2strokesmoke

Posted
Posted

OK back to the top tuner had to send my OS to EFI live so they could change it tune should be flashed monday morning. AFM will be off for good at that point and ill be looking into a way to get rid of this pump. Anyone know how to tell how much vacuum is required to run the brake system exactly?

Why not test the vacuum draw of this pump! That would give you your answer. An electrical pump makes way more sense here GM!

Engineering listen up you need to add this improvement, fight this out with "recovery" warranty dept over cost increase vs warranty claims.

 

Oh yes GM engineering do follow these threads.

 

Thxs

tobinstetson Enthusiast

tobinstetson

Posted
Posted

The way you explain that under light load it may be detonation. have you tried running some premium through it to see if it helps any?

Thanks for the advice. I have tried premium once of twice and did not notice a difference.

Svonpress87 Enthusiast

Svonpress87

Posted
Posted

Not sure if this would be the correct thread for my problem. If not feel free to bump me. I can't figure out how to post a new topic. I have a 2016 silverado with what sounds like detonation occasionally when you start it or take off from a start. The truck will do it everytime it is in park and given a little gas. See YouTube video

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
FL335i Enthusiast

FL335i

Posted
Posted

Well 69k and 3yrs. My vac pump is going out. FML. I do not see a good spot to get vacuum from the engine manifold. It's either the Corvette electric or replace with another belt driven pump.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 654 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...