Qwank's 2017 Regular Cab Z71 build

[Marv88]

4 minutes ago, Nasty said:

It's your turn

I know I keep saying I'm gonna do it and I will eventually! ?

[qwank]

I added this same post to the lowering thread. 

 

So when I originally put the flip kit in I had the rear hangers set at the 6'' position and used my 2'' drop shackles to raise it back up to 5''.  I decided 5'' was low enough in the rear and wanted to to get the drop shackles replaced with the stock shackles, so  lowered the hanger to the 5'' spot and put the factory shackle back in.  

 

Now it in theory it shouldn't have changed the rear drop, since both were set to 5'', but I feel like the truck is sitting an inch higher in not only the back, but also the front now.  I'm pretty sure it's only in my head, and I measured from floor to fender and I'm 34'' front and 35'' rear,  and I could have sworn I was 33"/34" last week.  

 

Either I'm going crazy or now I want it lower, But the front seems awfully high now.  I'll take it out tomorrow and take another side shot pic in the same spot in my driveway as I previously did.  

 

Here's how it sits now 

 

Edited April 14, 2018 by qwank

[qwank]

It's all in my head, it appears to be the same.  I tilted the camera a little this time so it doesn't look like I'm going uphill.  

 

[ajacobazzi]

Beautiful truck.  So, if I followed your thread correctly, all said and done, you're at a 3/5?  I just bought a 2017 1500 LT Crew Cab with 22's.......can't decided between a 3/5 and a 4/6.  I like the 4/6, but don't want any rubbing issues.

[qwank]

9 hours ago, ajacobazzi said:

Beautiful truck.  So, if I followed your thread correctly, all said and done, you're at a 3/5?  I just bought a 2017 1500 LT Crew Cab with 22's.......can't decided between a 3/5 and a 4/6.  I like the 4/6, but don't want any rubbing issues.

It's supposed to be 4/5, but I'm not sure I got a full 2'' out of the drop spindles. I never measured everything exactly before and after.  

 

 

EDIT: Looks like I'm closer to 3.5/5 

Edited April 15, 2018 by qwank

[qwank]

2800 miles.

 

took the 10mm ring out of the right side shock and it got rid of the lean and both sides are the same height now.  

 

Also dropped the rear down to 6, so altogether I am pretty much 4/6 now.  Installed offset upper control arm bushings and set my alignment. 

 

  Did my second warranty oil change too since I had the truck in the shop.

 

 

 

[qwank]

2960 miles

 

OK, suspension is all sorted out, time to move on to something else.  Next up is the stereo system.  I have the I06 radio with UQ3 speakers. Non Bose obviously as it isn't available in regular cab. 

 

The stereo upgrades will be done in two phases. Phase one is new speakers and door sound deadening, and phase 2 will be DSP (going 4 way active), amps, subwoofers and cabin sound deadening.   

 

So I'm a huge Alpine fan and I've used them almost exclusively in every vehicle I own.  I also have a a collection of vintage Alpine radios and amps.  So I was excited when they came out with a custom fit speaker system for our trucks.  Only problem is I wasn't paying, 1000 bucks for them.

 

  A set of woofers and mids with the passive crossovers showed up for sale online for a fraction of the price of the kit, so I grabbed them and added some SPS tweeters I had already.  Since  I didn't get the custom dash brackets that hold the tweeters, I just flush mounted them into the door trim, which I think looks cleaner anyways.  I realized I didn't have any tweeter crossovers so I'll have to wait Until later this week to finish this up.  

 

Here's some pics so far: 

 

Alpine 8'' woofer next to the stock 6x9

 

 

3'' mid next to the stock dash speaker:

 

 

mounted in place:

 

 

Tweeter mounted in door. There's a mounting stud and bolt for the mirror in this area. I just cut the stud down to the bolt and had plenty of clearance:

 

 

Doors. I didn't go crazy with the deadening this time. Usually I will cover the whole inner shell but it's a pain in the butt when I need to get back into the door later to replace window regulators and door actuators.  So I made sure all the bolts and nuts weren't covered and the openings were accessible still. The outer panel is covered as well between the door braces. (not shown) 

 

 

 

Edited June 3, 2018 by qwank

[Marv88]

Looking great qwank!!

[Nasty]

I need to start my audio. The stock crap sucks ass

[qwank]

I bought this JL Microsub about a year ago, because it's compact and fits behind the seats and console perfectly. It's It's a powered sub rated 500w at 1/4 ohm which is kinda crazy. I'll probably be using still unless I decide to go with something with more power. 

 

Edited June 7, 2018 by qwank

[Nasty]

On 6/3/2018 at 6:18 PM, qwank said:

I bought this JL Microsub about a year ago, because it's compact and fits behind the seats and console perfectly. It's 500w at 1/4 ohm which is kinda crazy. I'll probably be using still unless I decide to go with something with more power. 

 

.25 ohm? You may have that mixed up.  Any (store bought) amps aremt stable at that.    Maybe the writing internally is wired like that but you will send your amp into protection 

[qwank]

54 minutes ago, Nasty said:

.25 ohm? You may have that mixed up.  Any (store bought) amps aremt stable at that.    Maybe the writing internally is wired like that but you will send your amp into protection 

Nope,  copied right from JL's website:

 

Amplifier power: Built-in DCD™ Class D amplifier (500 W @ 0.20 Ω)
Nominal Impedance: 0.20 Ω

[Nasty]

1 minute ago, qwank said:

Nope,  copied right from JL's website:

 

Amplifier power: Built-in DCD™ Class D amplifier (500 W @ 0.20 Ω)
Nominal Impedance: 0.20 Ω

That's crazy.  That super low impedance.  

[qwank]

2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

That's crazy.  That super low impedance.  

I know. The subs are actually 0.4 ohms each, wired to 0.2 ohms. 

 

 

ACP208LG-W3v3

Amplified Subwoofer System with Dual 8W3v3-0.40 Subwoofer Drivers, Built-In 500W Class D Amplifier, Black Carpet - Ported Enclosure



 

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp208lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93331

Edited June 7, 2018 by qwank

[Nasty]

3 minutes ago, qwank said:

I know. The subs are actually 0.4 ohms each, wired to 0.2 ohms. 

 

 

ACP208LG-W3v3

Amplified Subwoofer System with Dual 8W3v3-0.40 Subwoofer Drivers, Built-In 500W Class D Amplifier, Black Carpet - Ported Enclosure



 

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp208lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93331

Now I understand. It's a built in amplifier. Because every jl amp I've seen is no lower than 2 ohm.  But its built in.  Got it now.