New to 2500. Advice please

Mdmartin3z · December 25, 2016

Hello all. New to the forum here and I have a few questions for proud 2500 owners and their experiences with their rigs as I will also be the proud owner of a 2500 soon. First off just a little bit of my background. I don't tow anything heavy. For the most part the payload won't go beyond you're weekly grocery list and a half dozen rucksacks for the regular scheduled field exercise. My decision as of late has been based off of cabin space (giraffe sized family) and a recent accident of fellow soldier (large 4door sedan similar to the one I currently drive which was shredded to gunk). After seeing a similar car to the one I drive in the way I want to be as high off the ground as possible so I don't end up under the trailer of an 18wheeler. From the current market I see some good deals on the crew cab WT and LT models under 20k miles for 15-16 year models. For those proud 2500 owners how have your experiences been with your rigs? What issues have you come across on your daily drives? Hauling/towing? Trails? Any and all advice for just about everything you've encountered is appreciated. As far as mods I only plan on tinting windows until I can convince the wife on the lift lol.

Please and thank you

SouthpawHD · December 25, 2016

Welcome to the forum and thank you for your service!!

Love my 2500 (gasser). But be prepared, gas mileage is nothing to get excited over and is dramatically different than the 1500s.

Problems are minimal, nothing more than other brands. The 6.0L gasser is basically a bulletproof motor and will keep going and going.

07Serria · December 25, 2016

Welcome to The Forum and thank you for your service! I also love my 2500, don't have one thing to complain about. Fuel mileage sucks, but due to my short trips it's really not much less than when I was getting out of a 1500 a few years back. At the end of the day you don't buy a truck for fuel mileage anyway.

revrnd · December 27, 2016

I've had three 6 L trucks & no major issues. I moved up to a 3/4 from a 1/2 ton because they didn't suit my usage. Yes, the mileage is nothing to write home about.

w/ the '11 I had to get the TCCM replaced in '15. Then this year there was an issue w/ the TC electronics in the actual case that they could "reteach/reprogram" to open the parameters. Dealer was going to change 900 bucks for a replacement. A local mechanic said if it started to go wonky again, the part could be sourced fro the wreckers for about 250. He had done a similar repair about the same time.

Your truck will come w/ the tires aired up to the max' spec'd pressures. Unless I'm towing my TT, I'm running them @ 55 psi. That is what the local Goodyear dealer recommended when I got Dura Tracs when I had them installed on my previous truck. The truck will ride like a lumber wagon otherwise.

Cowpie · December 28, 2016

Welcome! We called your location Ft. Cartoon in the 70's when I was doing my bit for Uncle. Thanks for taking up the service to the country. Some of us old vet's are truly proud of the job you younger guys are doing. Well the altitude on the front range there will bite into the mpg a little. As has been stated, the mpg on a 6.0L 2500 will be less than stellar, but if you moderate your driving a little you can pull off something that is more tolerable.

And as revrnd stated, when you are empty or light loaded, drop the tire pressures! You will appreciate the ride difference and better handling. He is right, the OEM recommended pressures are for max gross loading. I generally run about 55 myself. I got a set of BFG KO2 replacements this last fall and I got BFG to email me a tire load / pressure chart on the tires. Tires should be aired up to a level that matches the actual loading on the tires. With the stock OEM pressures, you will get substantial rear wheel hop when empty that will negatively affect mpg due to the electronics doing a lot of compensation for anti slip. The average mpg on my 2015 2500 improved about 1-2 mpg overall by getting the tire pressures down to a more reasonable level when empty. I just ignore the TPMS warning nonsense. Just a stupid little light that I pay no attention to.

But overall, the 2500 is the just about the best pickup going for the dollar. GM did pretty good. The 6.0L is darn near bullet proof and tied up with the 6L90 trans and 4.10 rears, will pull down the side of the barn. It won the Ike Gauntlet pull test which is towing 13,000 lb of trailer and another 500 lb in the box up I-70 to the Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado. Butchered a Ram 6.4L 2500.

revrnd · December 29, 2016

It won the Ike Gauntlet pull test which is towing 13,000 lb of trailer and another 500 lb in the box up I-70 to the Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado. Butchered a Ram 6.4L 2500.

Is there any video of this? ;-)

I'll add something else to add. I was planning on keeping the 2011 somewhat longer (it only had 72,000 miles). But I wasn't impressed w/ what the rumours for the next generation truck discussed. W/ the 2017 truck I have a truck w/ a steel box & cab.

Cowpie · December 29, 2016

The test I referred to was the 2015 2500, which is essentially the same as the current ones. 6.0L, 6L90 trans, and 4.10.

The 2500 wins the Golden Hitch Award.....

Mdmartin3z · January 2, 2017

Thank you all so much for your input I really appreciate it I'm sure you guys get these questions often but thank you again for steering me in the right direction. I can't wait for my 2500 to be in the driveway. The family is really excited to (especially for the extra leg room lol).

Don't thank me, thank my recruiter lol. Everything aside, I love my job. Thank you all for being the reason I do what I do

-SPC M.

Needatruck · January 3, 2017

Thank you for your service sir. ?? Get what you want that makes you feel safe. A 2500 would definitely put that comfort in the safety department for you I would think. It's definitely a part of my decision with a 2 year old in the back. Now I just have to make the decision and buy the thing. Lol

Mark Mortenson · January 3, 2017

After owning several new 1/2 tons last spring I switched to a 2500 gasser. I absolutely loved the truck as far as ride, comfort, and how stable it felt on the road. My only complaint was the mileage. Towing on flatlands it performed fine but heavy loads in the hills and mountains the motor wants to run high rpm's to keep in the peak power range. After only owning the truck for 9 months I ended up trading it on a new Duramax. I'll be the first to admit that I don't truly need a diesel but if I am going to get poor mileage I want disposable power for towing. Attached pic is when I parked it at the dealer to show the mileage I was getting the last 10k miles. I tow a light trailer often but I didn't drive the truck hard I drive like an old man but this was my mpg average.

X25 · January 3, 2017

I am finally getting my new '17 Duramax 3500 this weekend. One thing I'm confused about: unlike with other brands where the 350 or 3500 series suffer significantly in terms of comfort/handling, there is little to no degradation in ride comfort with Silverado/Sierra 3500s over 2500s, since the additional leafs only start working past 3" sag, and there is no other change whatsoever (especially for diesel versions). As such, why did you guys choose 2500 over 3500? Whether you need the payload or not, what's the benefit? It is about the same price.

Cowpie · January 3, 2017

Didn't need any more than 2500 gives me and license plates are higher on 3500 and so was insurance. So, no benefit.

sdeeter19555 · January 3, 2017

Didn't need any more than 2500 gives me and license plates are higher on 3500 and so was insurance. So, no benefit.

Same here...if I need to carry more, I have a trailer rated to 10k. I did add Timbrens to mine for the occasional firewood haul...but more often I grab the trailer since it keeps the truck cleaner.

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jvbronco · January 4, 2017

Didn't need any more than 2500 gives me and license plates are higher on 3500 and so was insurance. So, no benefit.

My decision came down to registration costs as well, but in a different direction.

In Minnesota, the 3500 actually falls into a cheaper category for registration. Has something to do with being over a certain GVWR. I save over $400/ year by going with the 3500.

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X25 · January 4, 2017

My decision came down to registration costs as well, but in a different direction.

In Minnesota, the 3500 actually falls into a cheaper category for registration. Has something to do with being over a certain GVWR. I save over $400/ year by going with the 3500.

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I'm wondering about that as well. The WA state's cost estimator only works with a registered license plate, so I'll have to wait until I get my plates to figure it out.