Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, customboss said:

Buckled oil filter media. Sorry for that but does it unseal the filter (?) in the aluminum plastic covered permanent case?   Might be normal for this design because I had similar issues with 2009 Chevy Malibu 2.4L no matter what cartridge brand I used. The OEM product was Hengst made for GM and was too efficient in my testing.  Fram XG and now called Ultra worked best in our analysis. 

 

 

Good to know! Thanks. 

 

Hengst. Thanks again. I could not remember what it was called. :crazy:

 

No, it does not. Nor does it crush the inner support tube. Ultra is what was in there. The TG is standard paper like the WIX. I just had it on hand. At 2.5K per OCI :dunno:

 

I truly think it was the rash of cold temperatures we had. Thing has a pretty stiff spring for the bypass system. 20 psi? I've used them for quite some time, and it was the first to give. Should have taken a photo. :sigh:

 

Took the last 24 hours moving this pig around the drive and noting the oil level after 2 or more hours each spot. Uphill and down and on ramps leveled. I have marks and it does not hold 5 quarts. At least now it doesn't. Half a pint less gives me a visible and repeatable mark I can mimic on any grade up to 5.5% (3 degrees). Book actually says 4.7 liters/ 5 quarts approximately

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Ordered 6 quarts of:

 

22:32 hours:

 

Late update. Advanced Lubrication Inc {Distributor for High Performance Lubricants] package the order as a case instead of singles. I didn't see that option when I orders AND applied a BITOG 15% discount. Canceled the shipping cost plus a few cents a quart. 

 EF40-Q_1024x1024@2x.png?v=1652903496

 

$15 a quart. Half as much as the TRIAX S-7 and unlike the TRIAX, this contains a heavy dose of Esters high enough to limit it to a dosing of 5:1. The VOA report below is for the SAE 30. I bought the SAE 40 as viscosity of the cleaning products runs close to the bottom of spec. (From BITOG) This is to be run no longer than 2,000 miles first time with filter checks as you go. Easy enough on this motor. Won't lose more than an ounce or two. 

 

High Performance Lubricants HP SAE 30 Engine Flush Rerun - Redacted.jpg

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted (edited)

Operational Notes

 

3/9/2023

 

 

image.thumb.png.767d42acc5a991864448b9f291537e8e.png

 

This graph has really settled down since the HP fuel pump was replaced. Each point represents fuel used over the entire OCI so, last 20K miles or so. The most current point is still in service and represents roughly half an OCI. 

 

image.thumb.png.1108f189eb7356082ca141e6a3a381ca.png

 

Oil consumption since I changed measurement method from estimating from adds and dipstick to 'outage' plus adds. Current run not yet graphed. The last point #4 [upper most on graph] was first addition of TRIAX S-7. At the end of that run came the filter collapse. Interesting. Now on the second bottle of this product. I didn't add it to 'fix' anything. Just working off old stock and this cripple seemed as good a place as any to do it. Oddly the fluid is getting tacky like chain bar oil and amber instead of grayish black. Like it did when I solvent cleaned it. Varnish, I think. This prompted the buy of HPL.  

image.thumb.png.01056944db1c91a4cb96c91fe7697fb4.png

 

This OCI is 1,150 miles along and I started blending alcohol 1,750 miles ago. This may also have something to do with the change is the oil? Maybe. Much better control over the blend once I found several stations with honest pumps and buying 75% content. This chart goes back about 60K miles. Last 8 tanks most recent. I have yet the need to add oil, so far. Curious. I did note that at the last oil change I reverted back to the small CCV orifice. 

 

It is running very well recently. Getting the pep back in her step. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted

I'm not impressed with credentials. Show me your work.   BINGO!!!

The office would send guys to the job site that had impressive resumes. Most were apprentice level.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

199,455 Mile Oil Notes

 

3/15/2022

 

First off, should I start a pool on Dizzy making it to 200K or has that ship sailed. :crackup:

 

Yesterday I went back over her entire history and saw something interesting? Puzzling? NEW!!

 

The ECOTEC 2.4 I-4 is equipped with a Hengst type cast in the block filter that utilizes a cartridge instead of a spin on. These do not have an anti-drain back feature. It holds perhaps 6 to 8 ounces of lubricant. This is two to three hash marks on the dipstick. Hold that thought.

 

So the obvious is that cold oil would drain back slower than hot. How about a dirty filter verses a clean one? Yea......can we say chagrined. 

 

See I always thought and have mention many times that she doesn't seem to use any oil for quite some time then, BOOM!

Add the distraction that as recently reported it doesn't hold as much as the book says by about the same amount as the filter holds. So, between overfilling on the initial fill and longer drain backs over time I see where this looks like a nonlinear state when it may indeed be quite linear.

 

So, over this OCI, besides taking great pains to fill just to the full mark (down 1/2 hatch actually or half a quart) and allowing overnight, greater than eight hours, to check it.....yes indeed. I know where the oil has been hiding in this motor. Consistently as well. 

 

New filter will drain back in roughly fifteen to twenty minutes. One with a few thousand miles on it takes well over four hours. And on a loose paper filter. Nearer 8 hours with a tight synthetic filter. 

 

Last night on a fuel stop I checked the oil at a level pump, hard to find, and it was halfway down the stick. I smiled. Not this time Sister.

 

I let her sit overnight leveled up and this morning almost ALL of that was recovered. Instead of half a quart it took but a few ounces to recover the level. On a fresh filter and oil and hot it reads nearly full within 15 minutes or so. First add at 2K miles. Well, live and learn. Liver longer, learn more. 

 

 

Posted
12 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

199,455 Mile Oil Notes

 

3/15/2022

 

First off, should I start a pool on Dizzy making it to 200K or has that ship sailed. :crackup:

 

Yesterday I went back over her entire history and saw something interesting? Puzzling? NEW!!

 

The ECOTEC 2.4 I-4 is equipped with a Hengst type cast in the block filter that utilizes a cartridge instead of a spin on. These do not have an anti-drain back feature. It holds perhaps 6 to 8 ounces of lubricant. This is two to three hash marks on the dipstick. Hold that thought.

 

So the obvious is that cold oil would drain back slower than hot. How about a dirty filter verses a clean one? Yea......can we say chagrined. 

 

See I always thought and have mention many times that she doesn't seem to use any oil for quite some time then, BOOM!

Add the distraction that as recently reported it doesn't hold as much as the book says by about the same amount as the filter holds. So, between overfilling on the initial fill and longer drain backs over time I see where this looks like a nonlinear state when it may indeed be quite linear.

 

So, over this OCI, besides taking great pains to fill just to the full mark (down 1/2 hatch actually or half a quart) and allowing overnight, greater than eight hours, to check it.....yes indeed. I know where the oil has been hiding in this motor. Consistently as well. 

 

New filter will drain back in roughly fifteen to twenty minutes. One with a few thousand miles on it takes well over four hours. And on a loose paper filter. Nearer 8 hours with a tight synthetic filter. 

 

Last night on a fuel stop I checked the oil at a level pump, hard to find, and it was halfway down the stick. I smiled. Not this time Sister.

 

I let her sit overnight leveled up and this morning almost ALL of that was recovered. Instead of half a quart it took but a few ounces to recover the level. On a fresh filter and oil and hot it reads nearly full within 15 minutes or so. First add at 2K miles. Well, live and learn. Liver longer, learn more. 

 

 

I'm not sure if she'll make it to 200k, might want to start that poll... 😂

 

I had posted on this thread a while back about our 2014 Equinox. Well, she was running like crap and was due for an oil change. Turns out she was almost completely out of oil, roughly 5-6k since last oil change. Odometer is just about to hit 100k. So she's definitely consuming oil now!

We have our first kid on the way in June, so I don't really have time to dig into this. I've asked a couple mechanics and none seem to be super familiar with this issue. Carmax is offering us $7k for the vehicle, and we can get by with only 1 car for a while. Thinking the best course of action might be to take that offer and run. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, mikef95 said:

I'm not sure if she'll make it to 200k, might want to start that poll... 😂

 

I had posted on this thread a while back about our 2014 Equinox. Well, she was running like crap and was due for an oil change. Turns out she was almost completely out of oil, roughly 5-6k since last oil change. Odometer is just about to hit 100k. So she's definitely consuming oil now!

We have our first kid on the way in June, so I don't really have time to dig into this. I've asked a couple mechanics and none seem to be super familiar with this issue. Carmax is offering us $7k for the vehicle, and we can get by with only 1 car for a while. Thinking the best course of action might be to take that offer and run. 

 

I'll bet they are. Have you looked on their site to see what a 2014 Equinox is selling for? 

Used 2014 Chevrolet Equinox in Chicago, IL | CarMax

 

They may stuff a Jasper motor in it and still clear $5K. That's not a deal, that's a mugging (If otherwise in very clean shape).

 

See @Black02Silverado and ask for a Synthetic Advantage UOA "Tuner Test". I'd bet dollars to donuts the HPFP is leaking into the crankcase and has gummed up the rings and plugged the CCV orifice. Could be injectors but the test would sort and confirm. 

 

New family and bleeding both cash and transportation is a hard way to go. If I can help, ask. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

I'll bet they are. Have you looked on their site to see what a 2014 Equinox is selling for? 

Used 2014 Chevrolet Equinox in Chicago, IL | CarMax

 

They may stuff a Jasper motor in it and still clear $5K. That's not a deal, that's a mugging (If otherwise in very clean shape).

 

See @Black02Silverado and ask for a Synthetic Advantage UOA "Tuner Test". I'd bet dollars to donuts the HPFP is leaking into the crankcase and has gummed up the rings and plugged the CCV orifice. Could be injectors but the test would sort and confirm. 

 

New family and bleeding both cash and transportation is a hard way to go. If I can help, ask. 

I was thinking of trying to sell it privately, but not sure if anyone would pay more than $5k if it needs a new motor. I could try listing it and see what kind of offers we get though. Unfortunately we no longer have the used oil, so would have to wait until the next oil change to do a UOA. Our other vehicle is a 2018 Equinox with the updated powertrain and the 2.0 engine, (we ended up with 2 Equinoxes by accident), and the plan is to try to find something with a 3rd row to accomodate a kid and a dog. The upside is that we don't have to rush.

  • Like 1
Posted

199,595 Mile Notes

 

3/17/2023

 

At the end of the first TRIAX-S7 addition the oil filter collapsed, and oil consumption was as high as it has been in quite some time. I didn't think much of it at the time. Installed a bit looser filter and changed oil. Swapped orifice plates out and continued with the alcohol blending. Focus, as I mentioned earlier, was getting consistent readings which over this oil change has improved greatly with patients. Now nearing the end of this 2,500-mile OCI and I've added once. Less than a cup to top off. Hardly worth the effort. Improvement? Time will tell. This does not 'look' nearly as dark as the last few changes. 

 

For the upcoming maintenance I bought 4 Purolator L15436 filters. I expect I will use a few during the next leg of this journey. Cheap and in the middle of the filter spectrum. I also bought 4 quarts of Valvoline 5W30 Semi Synthetic SP to use with the High-Performance Lubricants 40-EC. It's suggested I do the first filter 'check' (replacement) at 500 miles and use it as a gauge to determine the next. First pass is not to exceed 2K miles. 

 

Conventional Oil has sort of lost its meaning. I doubt there has been a true straight cut convention paraffinic oil made in the USA since sometime around 1980. We call a Group II Conventional, but it has been processed well past distillation. And that's good. Wax and sulfur have been removed to the benchmarks required for the Group. The only straight Group II I could find that wasn't labeled Bill's Swap Oil was Valvoline's SAE 30 SP and it's just not warm enough yet for that. 

 

Anyway, The Group II majority of the Semi-Syn has some natural solvency that won't diminish the ester cleaner and enough dispersant to hold whatever junk it can shake loose in 2K miles in suspension. Cheap fluid for a nasty job. 

 

Bought enough Red Line D6 for the 50K transmission service coming up as well. 

Posted (edited)

199,750 Mile Services

 

3/18/2023

 

Drop and fill 4 quarts Red Line D6 @ 75% Red Line now. 

Rotate and balance tires. .75 Ounce on the worst. 

 

Level checks on this 6T45 transmission is NOT straight forward. You have to force it to a temperature is will not reach normally by running it in 2nd gear until it reaches the minimum. We are going at this level check again tomorrow. 

 

Also, only about 1/2 the fluid will come out of it UNLESS it is stone cold then about 6 quarts of the 8.5 to 9.0 it holds. Has some sort of internal thermostatic standpipe/accumulator system? Why so complicated? 

 

Late addition: We found a small oil weep on the timing cover while doing the transmission service. Damp as is the frame below it. This will be part of a larger service to come. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
additional content
Posted

Were they nice enough to give you a dipstick for the transmission or no? These things are becoming a maintenance nightmare for the DIY’er. Of course many of them are “lubed for life” now anyway. Lol.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, OnTheReel said:

Were they nice enough to give you a dipstick for the transmission or no? These things are becoming a maintenance nightmare for the DIY’er. Of course many of them are “lubed for life” now anyway. Lol.

 

I use an independent mechanic. So, no, no dipstick. I do see where some models came with one. Hummmmm  :)

 

I ran it through GM's procedure today to get the fluid up to spec temp. Over 185 ish. No joy, Beat it like a pup. 143 F tops. It's good. This is the third service and first I knew of this. If was going to die, it would have already. 31 miles to go!!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

0.3% Club

Maintenance

 

IMG_0809.thumb.JPG.5036d70f172d23791a45930d1cf8136d.JPG

 

3/20/2023

199,999.8 actual. 

2,501 miles this OCI

66% on OLM

28 ounces of makeup. 1:3,139 At least it's consistent. 

 

4 Quarts Valvoline Semi-Syn 5W3, 6 ounces Kirkland 5W30 (To make HPL 40-EC ratio)

26 ounces High Performance Lubrication 40-EC (1:5.2)

Purolator L15436 "Red" filter (This will be changed in 500 miles per instructions). 

Made and installed .062" CCV orifice plate. 

 

1 10-ounce Techron to full tank of E-20

 

2,520 miles (fuel) / 94.149 gallons = 25.56 mpg for this OCI

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted

Sorry I don't know your first name so, good morning @newdude

 

I own both a 2014 Buick Verano and a 2015 GMC Terrain with the LEA I-4 2400. The LEA is listed as an E-85 capable motor and yet neither vehicle is. I know that there is a different fuel pump requirement but what I do not know is if the alcohol sensors are already there, or at least the wiring for plug and pay, and fuel maps naturally. How difficult is converting these two to E-85 and would you provide a 'road map' to doing so? 

 

Thanks for any assistance you are willing to provide. 

 

Marty "Grumpy".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...