Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated! I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 that has a pop every once in a while on 90 degree turns, such as turning from one street to another. I have a short two mile commute. Today alone it has happened 4 times. It has been to the dealer three times in two weeks. The first time they said they didn't feel anything. The second time they said the dampeners that hold rack on where shifting, so they replaced them. The third time they said they definetly felt it and said that it was the intermediate shafts in the column and replaced them. I picked it up yesterday and felt a pop but didn't think to much into it. But then today it had its issues as normal. The dealer wants me to take it for a test drive with the technician. Though I don't think this will matter as you can only feel it and not really hear it. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be?

 

Thanks

  • Like 1
Posted

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated! I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 that has a pop every once in a while on 90 degree turns, such as turning from one street to another. I have a short two mile commute. Today alone it has happened 4 times. It has been to the dealer three times in two weeks. The first time they said they didn't feel anything. The second time they said the dampeners that hold rack on where shifting, so they replaced them. The third time they said they definetly felt it and said that it was the intermediate shafts in the column and replaced them. I picked it up yesterday and felt a pop but didn't think to much into it. But then today it had its issues as normal. The dealer wants me to take it for a test drive with the technician. Though I don't think this will matter as you can only feel it and not really hear it. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be?

 

Thanks

Balljoints?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Balljoints?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No i can't imagine them being bad just yet! Just hit 19k miles.
Posted

I had two bad ones at 12k

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll check tomorrow at work. That's crazy if there going that quick. Did you have a intermittent pop?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I have this same issue as well. I can easily feel it in the steering wheel. I thought maybe it was in the steering column itself. I feel it usually while turning either left or right onto a different street. Sometimes I can get it to do it while applying the brakes and then letting go.

 

I thought maybe ball joints as well but they seem solid. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra SLE.

 

Let me know what you find out. Mine goes into an independent shop next week after the dealer told me they couldn't duplicate it and that there is nothing wrong with the steering wheel or column. If you grab my steering wheel on the left and right side and then move your arms back and forth, you can make the wheel click loudly like metal to metal sound. Almost as if the bearing inside is gone or the main nut isn't torqued properly.

 

Again my dealer told me that looseness is normal.

Edited by ridethedesert
Posted

I have the same issues, only when turning left. Dealer says they dont feel it. Didnt feel lime arguing. When i go back in for service i will bring it up again.

 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Posted

I had this in a Toyota in the past. It had hydraulic steering, so idk if it is the same... they replaced my steering rack to get rid of it. Never came back.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Guys this may seem crazy but it may be your rear leaf springs. I spent hours figuring mine out. They actually have to be greased. I noticed the pop when backing out of a driveway and turning from a stop. Apparently there is a bulletin out there to grease the leafs. I was like do we fill the blinker fluid too. lol

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Guys this may seem crazy but it may be your rear leaf springs. I spent hours figuring mine out. They actually have to be greased. I noticed the pop when backing out of a driveway and turning from a stop. Apparently there is a bulletin out there to grease the leafs. I was like do we fill the blinker fluid too. lol

 

Yup! Bingo!

What folks are experiencing is "axle wrap" and leaf spring stacking.

When you backup or turn at an angle one side of your box is under more stress then the other side. What happens is the box wants to twist and lean, but it can't (because of weld and stiffeners) so the stress is directed into the leaf spring and stacking occours. If your axle ubolts are not torqued off correctly or in a under torqued condition (common factory problem retorquing is required) the axle will wrap....(turn spin) inside your ubolts. Have your dealer confirm axle pinion angle, then leaf spring alignment, finally retorque to correct final values.

I bet you they are under torqued!

 

You may be able to see the ubolt to axle wearing (shiny metal) on the axle under around ubolt fastening area!

 

If torque values are okay, the greasing of the leaf springs is to soften the stacking process (thunk sound) I do not recommend this greasing fix, as it holds sand and salt in there!

 

Hope this helps folks out.

Thxs

Edited by 2strokesmoke
Posted

Guys this may seem crazy but it may be your rear leaf springs. I spent hours figuring mine out. They actually have to be greased. I noticed the pop when backing out of a driveway and turning from a stop. Apparently there is a bulletin out there to grease the leafs. I was like do we fill the blinker fluid too. lol

 

Ya I read up on the leaf springs in some other posts on here. I know when the leaf springs make the popping noise. I can hear that when pulling into a steep driveway and it will pop. Also can hear it when jacking up the rear of the truck to rotate the tires. This pop is distinctly in the steering column/steering wheel and can make it parked in my driveway, when making flat turns, etc. Maybe I should eliminate the leaf spring pop first just to be sure.

Posted

Yup! Bingo!

What folks are experiencing is "axle wrap" and leaf spring stacking.

When you backup or turn at an angle one side of your box is under more stress then the other side. What happens is the box wants to twist and lean, but it can't (because of weld and stiffeners) so the stress is directed into the leaf spring and stacking occours. If your axle ubolts are not torqued off correctly or in a under torqued condition (common factory problem retorquing is required) the axle will wrap....(turn spin) inside your ubolts. Have your dealer confirm axle pinion angle, then leaf spring alignment, finally retorque to correct final values.

I bet you they are under torqued!

 

You may be able to see the ubolt to axle wearing (shiny metal) on the axle under around ubolt fastening area!

 

If torque values are okay, the greasing of the leaf springs is to soften the stacking process (thunk sound) I do not recommend this greasing fix, as it holds sand and salt in there!

 

Hope this helps folks out.

Thxs

 

I'll have to check out the leaf springs. I saw a post on here that showed guys installing some leaf spring clamps to hold them down. I'll also check if the axle has any shiny metal. Interestingly my pinion seal blew a couple thousand miles ago. Dealer replaced the seal. Then 7,000 miles later the rear end started to hum and the dealer had to again replace the pinion seal but then also the pinion bearings, pinion gear/drive gear and reinstall. I'm not sure if they set the backlash correctly the first time or if something else caused it to fail again. Maybe the leaf springs are causing issues with the pinion as you have mentioned. I guess my next step is to stop the leaf springs from making the noise and then see if the steering wheel stops popping.

Posted

I'll have to check out the leaf springs. I saw a post on here that showed guys installing some leaf spring clamps to hold them down. I'll also check if the axle has any shiny metal. Interestingly my pinion seal blew a couple thousand miles ago. Dealer replaced the seal. Then 7,000 miles later the rear end started to hum and the dealer had to again replace the pinion seal but then also the pinion bearings, pinion gear/drive gear and reinstall. I'm not sure if they set the backlash correctly the first time or if something else caused it to fail again. Maybe the leaf springs are causing issues with the pinion as you have mentioned. I guess my next step is to stop the leaf springs from making the noise and then see if the steering wheel stops popping.

 

Confirm your rearend ubolts are torqued properly!

Posted

 

Ya I read up on the leaf springs in some other posts on here. I know when the leaf springs make the popping noise. I can hear that when pulling into a steep driveway and it will pop. Also can hear it when jacking up the rear of the truck to rotate the tires. This pop is distinctly in the steering column/steering wheel and can make it parked in my driveway, when making flat turns, etc. Maybe I should eliminate the leaf spring pop first just to be sure.

I'm having the same issue and it's definitely coming from the front end and not the rear. Mine pops randomly and I haven't been able to reproduce it on demand. I don't want to take it to the dealership only to have them not hear it and send me on my way. I heard it 2 times this morning. Once I was at a gas pump and it popped when I pulled away from the pump turning left. The other time it was at a stop sign and I was turning left again. Yesterday, it did something that I've never heard before. I missed a turn and had to make a U-turn. When I went full lock to the left, it popped about 8-10 times. I've tried to reproduce that too with no luck. While typing this and trying to figure out common elements when it happens and I just realized something. Each time it has happened, over the last two days, I have been on a slight downhill incline and I've turned left. I'll have to try that again and see if I can make it happen when I want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...