Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
5 minutes ago, Nasty said:

The things i didnt do was his heated wheel and seats.  Those i wont be doung because its pointless for me.   I did the door sills, dl3 mirrors, Camaro rear view mirror, center console, denali guage cluster and ltz lights

 

Things i will be doing next year is ltz leather seat skins and the dash,door panels and center console lid out of a 2018 high country (black not the brown)

 

But as of now im working on the audio since its my biggest want

Do you have a p/n and write up on the mirrors?

The heated stuff would come in handy for me in the winter, beats driving with gloves.

There's been a few mornings here that were in the 30's, and although that may not seem cold to a lot of people, coming from Hawaii, it's freezing to me!

Working on your audio? So what kind of exhaust are you getting...LOL!

Posted
Just now, RDKILL said:

Do you have a p/n and write up on the mirrors?

The heated stuff would come in handy for me in the winter, beats driving with gloves.

There's been a few mornings here that were in the 30's, and although that may not seem cold to a lot of people, coming from Hawaii, it's freezing to me!

Working on your audio? So what kind of exhaust are you getting...LOL!

They are just dl3 mirrors. Should be the same part for all the 14-18.  Then you get phils harness. Remove the whole door harness and replace it with phils. Took me about an hour and a half

 

Stereo in thr truck will consist of eric stevens compinents in stock locations ran active.  2 sundown audio 6.5" subs ported to 35 hz. Amps are a digital designs 4x90 for the speakers and a digital designs 500.1 for the subs and a mosconi 4to6 digital sound processor for tuning 

 

I have a carven TR muffler right nkw and its horrible. Im switching it to a black widow 250

  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/6/2018 at 7:01 PM, Nasty said:

Just recieved pictures that my splitter has been cut

20181106_170129.jpg

So how do I get one of these?

This puts a very nice touch on a lowered truck!

Posted
2 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

So how do I get one of these?

This puts a very nice touch on a lowered truck!

Tell me and i text the guy. You pay him via paypal and he sends you one :)

 

Imgoing to slightly modify it but not much 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Tell me and i text the guy. You pay him via paypal and he sends you one :)

 

Imgoing to slightly modify it but not much 

Hmm...I don't have pp, I had issues with them & ebay and haven't used them.

Does he take any other form of payment?

Is it painted, or raw?

What modification are you doing to it?

Isn't this the one you have on your truck in the pic?

Posted
1 minute ago, RDKILL said:

Hmm...I don't have pp, I had issues with them & ebay and haven't used them.

Does he take any other form of payment?

Is it painted, or raw?

What modification are you doing to it?

Isn't this the one you have on your truck in the pic?

Je most likely does tske other form.   Its raw just like in the picture    im going to extend the holes underneath so i can tuck it in another half inch

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Je most likely does tske other form.   Its raw just like in the picture    im going to extend the holes underneath so i can tuck it in another half inch

So I assume it must bolt up under radiator somewhere?

Is it a single piece or a two piece?

Posted
6 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

So I assume it must bolt up under radiator somewhere?

Is it a single piece or a two piece?

The mount bolts to existing holes in the frame. Then the splitter bolts to that and to the front valance. Its sturdy

  • Like 1
Posted

Boring update hut im just trying to make @Marv88 job easier.  

 

Top is second skin deadener (no you do not need 100% coverage with CLD) and bottom is with ensolite (closed cell foam) over it     next is to wait for the MLV for the back wall.  Im only doing MLV on the back wall

IMG_20181227_161703.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
Just now, 1SLOW1500 said:

Now we are talking keep pics like this coming.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Im starting the doors today.  I still need a sheet of MLV for the rear wall

  • Like 1
Posted

So i almost had a "punch shit" moment today. Deadening the front doors 1 at a time.   I got the CLD all spotted up.  Its solid except for a small part near the door latch which i cannot get to stop but its minimal.  Then i started laying the CCF.  Guess what. Whole peice wasted. To many wires running to the outside of the door. So i gave up   

 

Then i said screw it.  Ill abs plastic over the 2 openings to seal the door.  1 hole is easy. Other hole the window motor protrudes out side of thr door skin.  So i get mad and i cut my hand on the deadener.   So i gave up

 

Im going to attatch some open cell foam to the back side of the door panel itself, tape the rubber peice that covers the 2 door openings so its not flapping and call it a day

20181228_160957.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I got a bug up my ass and redid it    much better. Ill put the ensolite on tomorow. But me just taking my time actually turned out better and i did it faster

20181230_145803.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Couldnt wait. Figired and easy way to cut the ensolite to size and center it rightafter. And it went very fast and turned out great

20181230_164225.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted
I got a bug up my ass and redid it    much better. Ill put the ensolite on tomorow. But me just taking my time actually turned out better and i did it faster
20181230_145803.thumb.jpg.2eaacf8c5601fe0ce8b96d7d1f1ee24a.jpg
Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast brother!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Randy Ginoza
    Newest Member
    Randy Ginoza
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,060 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...