Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I took it in for service yesterday and I went for a spin with the transmission service head tech. It hit so hard from reverse to drive that he joked about it saying he didn't feel anything. And told me. To a bring it back Monday night so he can look at it Tuesday morning otherwise it was just gonna sit at the dealer over the weekend and he don't work Monday. So I guess we'll see what he says

And I drove another one on the lot. Didn't have not one issue at all everything worked fine

Posted

Also have a problem now that the engine feels likes it's miss firining after I drive it for a while. At a red light completely stopped car feels like it's miss firing. And my rear blower motor for heat/act is making a crazy loud noise.

 

Refer your dealer to the following TSB's:

 

#PIP5446: Harsh Shift 1/2 and 2/3 and Sputter Applying Throttle Between 0 and 30% Rough idle P0101 P0171 P0172 P0174 P0175

 

#16-NA-019: Information on Transmission Adaptive Functions and Correcting Low Mileage Harsh Shifts, Slips, or Flares

 

Given you are having idling issues as well.. I'd put more focus on the first one.

Posted

 

Refer your dealer to the following TSB's:

 

#PIP5446: Harsh Shift 1/2 and 2/3 and Sputter Applying Throttle Between 0 and 30% Rough idle P0101 P0171 P0172 P0174 P0175

 

#16-NA-019: Information on Transmission Adaptive Functions and Correcting Low Mileage Harsh Shifts, Slips, or Flares

 

Given you are having idling issues as well.. I'd put more focus on the first one.

. Please explain what does all of that mean I'm a noob when it comes to that stuff above you quoted so I can tell them I dropped it off yesterday and the tech call me said they needed to update the computer for the mods fire (sure they did probably didn't wanna say I had a burnt wire or something) and the same for the trans.
Posted

. Please explain what does all of that mean I'm a noob when it comes to that stuff above you quoted so I can tell them I dropped it off yesterday and the tech call me said they needed to update the computer for the mods fire (sure they did probably didn't wanna say I had a burnt wire or something) and the same for the trans.

 

Let me pause and ask... what mods? You didn't mention mods in the previous posts.

  • Like 1
Posted

Let me pause and ask... what mods? You didn't mention mods in the previous posts.

. I don't have any performance mods if that's what your asking. I only changed the wheels and tires truck originally gave with 20 dealer put 22's on it and had to re program the computer for the tire size. And the first time I took it in for service after about a week of owning it because trans was acting up. They had to update the trans mission. But as far as mods truck is bone stock not even a air filter or anything Just wheels n tires
Posted

. I don't have any performance mods if that's what your asking. I only changed the wheels and tires truck originally gave with 20 dealer put 22's on it and had to re program the computer for the tire size. And the first time I took it in for service after about a week of owning it because trans was acting up. They had to update the trans mission. But as far as mods truck is bone stock not even a air filter or anything Just wheels n tires

 

Here are the TSBs I referenced earlier. I'm not sure it's the solution but regardless, information on the topic for your vehicle that was similar to how you explained.

harshshift.pdf

transadaptivefunctions.pdf

harshshift.pdf

transadaptivefunctions.pdf

harshshift.pdf

transadaptivefunctions.pdf

harshshift.pdf

transadaptivefunctions.pdf

Posted

Hey guys so here's a update I took my SUV in for service the trans guys did feel what I was talking about. I called Gm and told them the problems I had and they was looking into a buy back law. For me. But before Gm called me back The dealer called me and told me they found a engine miss fire code. But after Gm called the dealer they said no such thing ever happened and that this SUV never had a check engine light on before. Which is a lie because I got bad gas at a pump before 87 octane was actually e85 anyway they said there was no problems with the engine or trans. But now the engine doesn't miss fire anymore and the trans don't slip. I believe they fixed it on the sneak and didn't tell Gm about it so they don't take a lost. Also my gas mileage went from 15 highway. To 20 in the city go figure they didn't wanna loose money so they just fixed it. I'm just happy it's okay now... but I don't like because they lied to me gotta love honest people at Gm and dealers

Posted

The dealer called me and told me they found a engine miss fire code. But after Gm called the dealer they said no such thing ever happened and that this SUV never had a check engine light on before. Which is a lie ...

 

That's a very flaky dealer, but at the end of the day you're only concerned with your truck being fixed.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

This is what could happen to your new Chevrolet Suburban Premier. I’ve owned a 2011 and 2016 Suburban LTZ.  I’ve also owned two 2018 Suburbans but I was never prepared for what happened to my 2018 Chevrolet Suburban Premier.

 

I purchased a used 2018 Chevrolet Suburban Premier and the engine went out after a little over 100K miles. I understand that it is out of warranty based on miles, but since it’s a one-year-old car I reach out to GM leadership for some assistance.  I sent an email to Mary Bara and all the VP listed on their website to get some form of assistance but GM flatly refused. Here are some of their excuses for not offering any assistance. (1) I did not purchase it from a Chevy dealer, (2) the vehicle is registered in a business instead of personal, (3) the vehicle was bought used and was a rental vehicle or some other ridiculous excuse, therefore I’m on my own.

It’s very disappointing that a $65K car, which I always service at a GM dealership monthly, needs an engine after 100K miles. I told them I would never buy another GM vehicle. If it were a company that purchases large quantities of their vehicles they probably would do something. Big companies don’t need assistance; a small guy like me is more in need of their assistance. It’s costing me well over $7000.00 to replace the engine at a Chevrolet dealership. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/17/2019 at 9:44 AM, PabloE said:

This is what could happen to your new Chevrolet Suburban Premier. I’ve owned a 2011 and 2016 Suburban LTZ.  I’ve also owned two 2018 Suburbans but I was never prepared for what happened to my 2018 Chevrolet Suburban Premier.

 

I purchased a used 2018 Chevrolet Suburban Premier and the engine went out after a little over 100K miles. I understand that it is out of warranty based on miles, but since it’s a one-year-old car I reach out to GM leadership for some assistance.  I sent an email to Mary Bara and all the VP listed on their website to get some form of assistance but GM flatly refused. Here are some of their excuses for not offering any assistance. (1) I did not purchase it from a Chevy dealer, (2) the vehicle is registered in a business instead of personal, (3) the vehicle was bought used and was a rental vehicle or some other ridiculous excuse, therefore I’m on my own.

It’s very disappointing that a $65K car, which I always service at a GM dealership monthly, needs an engine after 100K miles. I told them I would never buy another GM vehicle. If it were a company that purchases large quantities of their vehicles they probably would do something. Big companies don’t need assistance; a small guy like me is more in need of their assistance. It’s costing me well over $7000.00 to replace the engine at a Chevrolet dealership. 

Did you do a pre-purchase inspection? A used car is ALWAYS rolling the dice unless you know the owner (family, friend, coworker, etc).

Posted

This is what could happen to your new Chevrolet Suburban Premier. I’ve owned a 2011 and 2016 Suburban LTZ.  I’ve also owned two 2018 Suburbans but I was never prepared for what happened to my 2018 Chevrolet Suburban Premier.

 

I purchased a used 2018 Chevrolet Suburban Premier and the engine went out after a little over 100K miles. I understand that it is out of warranty based on miles, but since it’s a one-year-old car I reach out to GM leadership for some assistance.  I sent an email to Mary Bara and all the VP listed on their website to get some form of assistance but GM flatly refused. Here are some of their excuses for not offering any assistance. (1) I did not purchase it from a Chevy dealer, (2) the vehicle is registered in a business instead of personal, (3) the vehicle was bought used and was a rental vehicle or some other ridiculous excuse, therefore I’m on my own.

It’s very disappointing that a $65K car, which I always service at a GM dealership monthly, needs an engine after 100K miles. I told them I would never buy another GM vehicle. If it were a company that purchases large quantities of their vehicles they probably would do something. Big companies don’t need assistance; a small guy like me is more in need of their assistance. It’s costing me well over $7000.00 to replace the engine at a Chevrolet dealership. 

100k miles on an 18 is a shit ton of miles even for a rental. Sounds like its been run into the ground - how much of that was towing? You really think it had 10-12 oil changes in the year? You are 64k out of warranty (almost triple miles), and you think GM is being unfair to you? You had 4 other burbs, how many miles you get out of them?

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

  • 1 year later...
Posted

You bought used, and 1st question  that should  come to mind is how was this car previously  used and what was done to vehicle before you.  Gm pulled up quite the history  on it ,and rental use . The rental  use is most concerning and is unpredictable as no one knows what rentees did to it. As another user put its a roll of the  dice. There were probably  flags to the prior owners that motivated them  to sell it. I had friend who never changed his oil  once because he never intended  keep the vehicle  that long. I empathize  with you in this  situation. You may want  seek some legal advice if your out $64000 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

We just had to have our transmission rebuilt on our 2017 Chevrolet Suburban premier at 67,000 miles. It was slipping and slow to accelerate. Going down the highway it would get stuck at 4,000 RPMs and stay there for 30 seconds or more. Thankfully we purchased an extended power train warranty and it was covered 100%. Does anyone know how long the life expectancy of a rebuilt transmission is to last? Also, we just purchased this vehicle in November of 2021 and only put 3,000 miles on it before having to get the transmission rebuilt. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...