slee3247 Posted May 18, 2017 Posted May 18, 2017 Find a dealership that will warranty an engine failure regardless of causation!
shrekmoose Posted May 19, 2017 Author Posted May 19, 2017 The dealer not covering a motor isn't really the reason I'm doing it. It's the fact it's a weak link in the system that needs to be eliminated. I plan on doing extensive work to this motor and don't want a freakin vacuum pump if all things to take it out. Now back to the task at hand. The vacuum issue should be solved by my tuning and tuning out any code that would be thrown when it's unplugged shouldn't be an issue. My main question is where would y'all pull the vacuum from in the intake manifold for the brake booster?
shrekmoose Posted May 19, 2017 Author Posted May 19, 2017 Also I plan on diving into this no matter what I'm just brainstorming while I don't have any time to work on it. Working 15 hour days 7 days a week right now.
SScarguy Posted May 19, 2017 Posted May 19, 2017 If I were doing this I would find a way to get the Corvette pump to work. Knowing GM there is some way to pin it into the factory harness.
shrekmoose Posted May 19, 2017 Author Posted May 19, 2017 That's a though I would just really like to get away from a vacuum pump all together. Like I said I'm running in v8 100% of the time now so I should make plenty of vacuum at the intake. The less I have in the engine bay the more room I'll have for whatever forces induction route I go with. Prob gonna be a procharger.
07Softail Posted May 20, 2017 Posted May 20, 2017 I would first disconnect the vacuum hose and see if your brakes are going work properly before you go through all of the trouble. RT
shrekmoose Posted May 20, 2017 Author Posted May 20, 2017 I'm still going to be running vacuum into the brake booster just from the intake instead of the pump.
muddkatt Posted May 20, 2017 Posted May 20, 2017 I'm still going to be running vacuum into the brake booster just from the intake instead of the pump. I would first disconnect the vacuum hose and see if your brakes are going work properly before you go through all of the trouble. RT I would try using the intake before removing the pump.
shrekmoose Posted May 20, 2017 Author Posted May 20, 2017 Yea I plan to make me up a vacuum line and clamp it into the intake and see if I still have power brakes. Found an article in ls1 tech where guys are putting these motor in older camaros and stuff and using a purge valve on the intake to pull vacuum. While i prob won't be able to use that valve because my system still uses it that tells me there is eoungh vacuum made to run the brakes. Anyone know of another intake( lt1 or the like) that may have a vacuum port in it? Wouldn't mind swapping intakes to make it clean.
Darth_Vader Posted May 26, 2017 Posted May 26, 2017 You can run a vac line on the hose that runs from the manifold to the crank case. How much vacuum does the vacuum pump make?
TheBlackPearl Posted May 31, 2017 Posted May 31, 2017 My buddy just put a GMPP crate ls3 in his Chevelle and it seems like it doesn't make enough vacuum for his power brakes (aftermarket wilwood system). Pop the hose off his booster and cover it with your finger and it barely sucks whereas my old Carb'd v8 s10 would almost suck your finger into the hose.
XSKIER Posted May 31, 2017 Posted May 31, 2017 I could use a vacuum pump on my LS3 avy. The power brake boost is really weak until it gets warmed up. Maybe an electric pump that kicks on only when over 70 kpa and under 2k rpm? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
shrekmoose Posted June 2, 2017 Author Posted June 2, 2017 Haven't had time to test any of this yet. Anyone know what the booster requires to have good brakes or a ballpark? Haven't had time to test any of this yet. Anyone know what the booster requires to have good brakes or a ballpark?
SScarguy Posted June 2, 2017 Posted June 2, 2017 My cammed Camaro pulls 60 kpa at idle, stock it was 30 kpa. I didn't notice a difference in the brakes at all going from 30 to 60.
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