Jump to content

2500hd Battery Relocation

ickyoldman
 Share

Recommended Posts

ickyoldman Enthusiast

ickyoldman

Posted
Posted

Has anyone tried to re-locate the battery to the location in the front left instead of that ridiculous stock location jammed in there? Why they felt they had to jam it in there is beyond me.

  • Like 1
crankman Enthusiast

crankman

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yea its in a weird spot.The ground post was difficult to get to for sure. We added another battery in the spare tray for my winch and its easier to access. I guess you could move it but you would have to extend or rewire the battery leads.

Edited by crankman
sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

Near the aux battery?

Most 2500s have the second tray, but no second battery...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Dirtbiker Enthusiast

Dirtbiker

Posted
Posted

Just a guess but I am guessing the batteries are all getting pushed back towards the cab so there is less of a chance of them gettmg smashed in a front end crash which would lead to leaking battery acid. Most new vehicles seem to have them back futher now from what I have noticed....

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

When Dodge introduced this in the 2003 2500/3500, they claimed it was to better distribute weight buy putting it behind the axle and to help ride quality...the previous generation was out on the nose, the later generation was back by the cab.

 

If you consider that each battery weighs near to 75 pounds, I can see that.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

ickyoldman Enthusiast

ickyoldman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why do you want to move it? :happysad:

Too hard to get to to change, jump and too much crap back in that corner in general. Imagine trying to change when it's -20 and you're outside. It just doesn't make sense back there. My older trucks were out front. Why re-invent the wheel?

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Too hard to get to to change, jump and too much crap back in that corner in general. Imagine trying to change when it's -20 and you're outside. It just doesn't make sense back there. My older trucks were out front. Why re-invent the wheel?

A simple way to avoid jumping, changing at -20. Don't wait until the battery dies, just replace it every 4 or 5 years. You will have to replace it sooner or later so why wait for it to die. This is what I do and changing the battery in nice weather every 4 or 5 years is the way to go IMO. Besides you just work the hell out of your alternator when it's dying. :happysad:

MotionMan Enthusiast

MotionMan

Posted
Posted

I tried to modify a marine battery box to fit there as covered, kind of waterproof storage, but by the time I hacked the box up to fit there was no room to put anything in it. I'm used to an F350 with 2 group 65 batteries. These are 1/2 the size. The new LED lights help a lot, the last truck was a Diesel with lots of aftermarket draw stuff, it ate batteries and alts like candy, finally added another alt from the ambulance package and it worked....2 185 amp alts.

revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted

Too hard to get to to change, jump and too much crap back in that corner in general. Imagine trying to change when it's -20 and you're outside. It just doesn't make sense back there. My older trucks were out front. Why re-invent the wheel?

BTDT

 

I wonder how much copper wire they save by using shorter cables?

  • Like 1
revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted

A simple way to avoid jumping, changing at -20. Don't wait until the battery dies, just replace it every 4 or 5 years. You will have to replace it sooner or later so why wait for it to die. This is what I do and changing the battery in nice weather every 4 or 5 years is the way to go IMO. Besides you just work the hell out of your alternator when it's dying. :happysad:

How about 2 & a half years & then dealing w/ the useless batteries Crappy Tire sells here in Canada. One lasted less than 2 months in my last truck.

4x4Pete Enthusiast

4x4Pete

Posted
Posted

How about 2 & a half years & then dealing w/ the useless batteries Crappy Tire sells here in Canada. One lasted less than 2 months in my last truck.

I don't like dealing with Crappy Tire either. I think you would be better off going to an Avenue Auto or Bay Auto. That's who I use for generic parts over here in Simcoe County. I don't know if those places are on your area. You can ask at a friendly service garage, they may tell you who they buy parts from. The part sellers usually will sell to the public just not as good of a discount as the garages get. Crappy Tire is incredibly frustrating with the minimum wage parts counter help. Or should I say parts counter NO help:)

revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don't like dealing with Crappy Tire either. I think you would be better off going to an Avenue Auto or Bay Auto. That's who I use for generic parts over here in Simcoe County. I don't know if those places are on your area. You can ask at a friendly service garage, they may tell you who they buy parts from. The part sellers usually will sell to the public just not as good of a discount as the garages get. Crappy Tire is incredibly frustrating with the minimum wage parts counter help. Or should I say parts counter NO help:)

Normally I don't buy parts there either, but I figure, what can go wrong w/ a battery? Totalled up, it cost me over 500 bucks to replace the OEM battery. The last (3rd installed in truck) Crappy Tire battery I almost threw it @ the counter person when they asked me if I wanted a replacement.

 

When the initial CTC battery failed after a year of service, I took the truck to my dealer, thinking it was a charging system issue. No problem w/ the truck, but the battery had a dead cell.

 

Wrote a letter to head office w/ all the documentation & some azzhat called me and offered me a $100 gift card for my troubles. Needless to say I declined it. I told the guy I was hanging up before I said something that I'd regret. Since then, I've more or less stopped shopping for anything there.

 

So much for the wonderful batteries the bald moron extols on their TV ads.

Edited by revrnd
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,118 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • davester
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By davester · Posted

      yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...