Jump to content

Ramps for tailgate?


NewbieZ71

Recommended Posts

Posted

Need to get my lawn tractor up in the bed of my truck to take it for service.  Cant lift it since its so heavy.  What are my options for ramps?  Any way to do it home made so to speak?  Wife says to use a couple of boards but I dont think even a 2" would be strong enough and they would slide all over creation with out some way of holding them in place.   I need to do this maybe once, twice a year so I dont want to spend a whole lot of bucks on some expensive ramps.  Any ideas?  How much weight can the tailgate handle when its lowered?

Posted
Cant lift it since its so heavy

 

Come on man.  

 

Does it have a deck attached?  Why dont you remove that if so (takes alot of weight off) then load the tractor?  Me and my dad (hes about your age :D ) load a tractor to bring it from our cottage home to work on it a few times a yr.

 

As for ramps lots of places sell them.  Many are less then $100

Posted

I remembered seeing some aluminum ramps for around $100-150.  I thought I remember seeing them from http:\\www.northerntool.com  

I don't think that using boards are a very good idea because, as you said they tend to slip around and not to mention possibly break.  The aluminum ramps usually have a rubber pad at the 2 ends to keep the slippage to a minimum and a safety strap that attaches to the bumper to keep them from slipping off the tailgate/bed.  The tailgate strength is rated around 500-600 lbs for the steel tailgate.  How big of a lawn tractor?  Depending on the width, you may still have to remove the deck because the bed might not be wide enough.

Posted

I bought a set of bi-fold steel ramps at a motorcycle/atv shop for $80 3 years ago, and I use them to load and unload atvs all the time.  The biggest atv I have weighs 600lbs plus myself for a total of about 750lbs and the tailgate holds up just fine.

 

Please don't use boards-it can be hazardous.  The steel or aluminum ramps you can buy have safety chains or cables to attach to the bumber so the ramp won't kick out and they also have angled tips that rest flat on the tailgate.   Cabela's sells ramps online:

 

Cabelas...

 

Just a thought, but you might think about buying a small utility trailer to haul your mower.  For around $500 or $600 you can get a 5x8 or even a 4x6 that can carry 1 to 2 thousand lbs and it's alot easier (and safer) to load than using loading ramps. :D

Posted

Don't take a chance on getting seriously hurt. If you don't want to spend the money on a set of aluminum folding ramps that can hold 1,000+ pounds, and you only need to do this twice a year, just borrow a small utility trailer from someone who owns an ATV (quad or four wheeler).

 

 I would never trust any wooden ramp or board, even treated oak.  I personally know of an individual who got some 2x8 scaffle boards and was driving a lawn tractor into a pickup's bed. He had the boards slight off-line and it tilted and fell over. It landed on his left leg, breaking his tibia and fibula first and as it rolled on over, it snapped his femur. He now has a titanium rod in his femur and wishes he had spent the $150 for an aluminum, purpose-built ramp.  I still think the utility trailer with the beaver tail is by far the safest.

 

btw-if you borrow or buy ramps, you need to attach a safety to the places on the sides of where the tailgate latches to stop it from kicking back and out from under you.  Not likely with a lawn tractor, but better to plan for the worst and hope for the best.  I have seen several ATVs spit the ramp right out from under the bike. Kind of exciting for the rider.

Posted
the way we loaded ours at home was to back the truck up to a hill or a ditch and get a couple of 2x4's and drive the tractor right up it. :)

If you have a ditch by your house just back into it to get the tailgate closer to ground level, and use 4x4 "low" when you pull back out.

 

They make aluminum ends to put on treated boards so they will stay on your tailgate.

 

If you do use boards, tack some firring strips across them for traction every 6" or so...

Posted

Thanks guys, I thought the ramps would be more than mentioned here..$100 or so isnt bad...dont know why but I thought they would be more.  2X4's definitely to small!  Actually with the ramps its not really the cost as much as it is putting up with the wifely comments about "Where are going to keep those" "do those have to be in here" "you dont ever use those, why dont we get rid of them"...etc.!!

 

Right Shaners?

Posted
Right Shaners?

Been there and continue to do that!!!  LOL

 

One of my biggest problems is in my office/computer room.  I hardly ever clean it up, and then I get pissed when everything is missing....

Posted

Just park with the back wheels in a ditch, and then you should be able to roll that fat chick up and into the bed. When you get her back home, just roll her drunk azz back out onto the lawn. :)

Posted
Thanks guys, I thought the ramps would be more than mentioned here..$100 or so isnt bad...dont know why but I thought they would be more.  2X4's definitely to small!  Actually with the ramps its not really the cost as much as it is putting up with the wifely comments about "Where are going to keep those" "do those have to be in here" "you dont ever use those, why dont we get rid of them"...etc.!!

 

Right Shaners?

Well, if she doesn'y like the ramp idea, get her out there to help you lift it!  :)  I like the backing up to an ditch.  Two problems(things to think about)

1.  how far do you have to drive the tractor to the ditch?

2.  how will you unload it at the repair shop?

Posted

We used to use the ditch method to load up our ATV's at the house, and had 2 2x8's with a piece of chain attached to the sides of one end with a hook in the middle.  Dad drilled a hole in the bottom of the tailgate to hook the hook on the chain into.  Now this was dads old '76 Chevy that we used for all the rough work, so you may not like the idea of drilling a couple holes in the bottom of your newer trucks tailgat.  BTW, we never had a problem with those boards.  As a matter of fact, he's still got them and uses them to load the walk-behind Gravely into the bed of the truck.  I'm guessing they are around 16 years old.

 

The fold up aluminim ones are nice and would be what I would probably go with.  A friend of mine has one that is a double fold.  When unfolded, it is as wide as the whole tailgate.  Like mentioned before, it has a couple safety cables that he attaches to the holes for chains on the trailer hitch.  They also have the little angled peices on the top to let it rest eveny on the tailgate.

 

All the ATV shops around here sell them in the single and double fold versions.

Posted

Years ago we used some 4 inch wide channel to load lawn tractors into the back of the pickup.  On one end we angle cut the channel and we welded a piece of rebar on the other to catch on the edge of the tailgate to keep them from moving around.  I don't remember how much it cost to build them but they sold at auction for $50.00 in 1972 I do remember that.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...