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5.3l L83 Turbo build help!

BrodieBiking

By BrodieBiking
in Modifications & Accessories

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BrodieBiking Enthusiast

BrodieBiking

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I have a sinister single turbo kit on the way and I need help finding a turbo that'll suit my needs. I have a diesel background so not sure which route to go. My goal is 450-500 wheel hp, daily driver and I do tow two or three times a year so I'm not really worried about that, but would there be issues towing with a turbod 5.3?

 

Help with turbo sizing would be greatly appreciated.

Motor City Rick Enthusiast

Motor City Rick

Posted
Posted

First, ....is the "turbo map" good for your 5.3??? Is it gonna come in sooner or later in the rpm band???

 

Is the turbo "mated" to the volumetric's output of the exhaust and intake of delivered air for a 5.3???

Will it allow the use of 9.5 to 1 compression without issues??? Compression is 0.5 over the max recommended compression ratio for street turbo usage.

Do you plan on using larger "matched" fuel injectors"??? What might be the actual size fuel injector required???

Do you plan any intercooling, like air to air or air to liquid???

Do you plan on having the ECM software completely readjusted to compensate for all the turbo modifications??? Is that tech skilled in making those software adjustments???

Are you prepared for increased heat protection for nearby components of the turbo system???

Do you know the procedure for turbo start up after an oil change???

You know only full synthetic oil can be used on light duty turbo systems???

 

There's way more things to be known than just slamming on a turbo onto a naturally aspirated gas motor. Gas motors are not like diesels. Gas motors are more sensitive to minor adjustments.

BrodieBiking Enthusiast

BrodieBiking

Posted
  • Author
Posted

As far as I know (as it seems I am ill informed ahah), the rest of the truck is going to be stock aside from an MAF sensor. Stock fuel system, stock injectors. The kit comes with an air-air intercooler. Truck will be tuned by a competent reputable local shop. Full synthetic is no different then what I'm doing now aha.

 

Are you familiar with turboing this motor?

Motor City Rick Enthusiast

Motor City Rick

Posted
Posted

Brodie,

 

Using stock fuel injectors, on a turbo system will start to lean out severely once more cubic feet of air is pushed through the motor at the same rpm. It's like jets in a carburetor. That is why I asked you about the turbo map and other specifics. No tuner will be able to overcome a lean injector pulse issue regardless what he tells you.

 

Synthetic oil for a car is much different than a diesel. I find diesel mechanics like to use heavier viscosity oils in gas motors. The oil used in a 5.3 is 10w30, nothing heavier because of the small oil channels and operating characteristics.

 

As for an oil change on a turbo motor, 99.999% of the people who do an oil change forget that turbo bearings need oil right now when the impeller starts spinning. The oil in the turbo supply line drains back once the oil and oil filter is remove. It's contingent where the turbo oil supply line is located that is the critical part. What people tend to forget, there is no supplied oil to the turbo bearings for a couple of seconds as the turbo spins away waiting for the oil channels / oil filter to receive oil pressure. When the motor starts, there is no oil in the oil filter which is 1/5 of the total amount of oil in the complete motor. After that time period, then the turbo oil supply line now get pressurized.

 

So the proper procedure in order to save the turbo bearings from premature wear out is to crank the motor without the fuel injectors activating to the point where you see the oil pressure gauge at maximum pressure for 10 seconds. Once that is reached, you reactivate the fuel injector function and start the motor in the normal way.

BrodieBiking Enthusiast

BrodieBiking

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok yes I see what you're talking about now. I had no idea what a turbo map was before you mentioned it, clearly I have more research to do. I am not rushing into this, I have as much time as I need to figure this out haha. So what you are saying is that there will be a certain threshold where the stock injectors will lean out and not be capable of supplying enough fuel for the amount of air being ingested?

What if you could stay under that threshold? Obviously you know what you're talking about, but the people that offer these turbo kits (there are several) say that you will have no issue with the stock fuel system if you keep it under 550hp?

 

Thanks for the responses by the way

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I don't think hp numbers matter here. It's how much boost. Because as you know more air mkre fuel. I would not run stock fueling on a turbo setup. If you want to keep stock , then get a Maggie or whipple.

BrodieBiking Enthusiast

BrodieBiking

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't think hp numbers matter here. It's how much boost. Because as you know more air mkre fuel. I would not run stock fueling on a turbo setup. If you want to keep stock , then get a Maggie or whipple.

Was only looking around 6-8psi

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

If you only want low boost. Het a super charger. Save yourself the hassle

Paintor Enthusiast

Paintor

Posted
Posted

Sinister Racecraft has a video on Youtube of a Turbo on a 2014 Silverado 5.3 .......but no new video for the last 3 years on his Youtube Channel since installing the Turbo.

 

And although Google will show results for "Sinister Turbo Kit 5.3" ....the guys website is dead.

 

Is this the kit you got?

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted

Brodie,

 

Using stock fuel injectors, on a turbo system will start to lean out severely once more cubic feet of air is pushed through the motor at the same rpm. It's like jets in a carburetor. That is why I asked you about the turbo map and other specifics. No tuner will be able to overcome a lean injector pulse issue regardless what he tells you.

 

Synthetic oil for a car is much different than a diesel. I find diesel mechanics like to use heavier viscosity oils in gas motors. The oil used in a 5.3 is 10w30, nothing heavier because of the small oil channels and operating characteristics.

 

As for an oil change on a turbo motor, 99.999% of the people who do an oil change forget that turbo bearings need oil right now when the impeller starts spinning. The oil in the turbo supply line drains back once the oil and oil filter is remove. It's contingent where the turbo oil supply line is located that is the critical part. What people tend to forget, there is no supplied oil to the turbo bearings for a couple of seconds as the turbo spins away waiting for the oil channels / oil filter to receive oil pressure. When the motor starts, there is no oil in the oil filter which is 1/5 of the total amount of oil in the complete motor. After that time period, then the turbo oil supply line now get pressurized.

 

So the proper procedure in order to save the turbo bearings from premature wear out is to crank the motor without the fuel injectors activating to the point where you see the oil pressure gauge at maximum pressure for 10 seconds. Once that is reached, you reactivate the fuel injector function and start the motor in the normal way.

Nobody does that and that is so uneccessary

 

Everything you said in this thread sounds like you read maximum boost but dont have much or any real world experience. You also gave zero advice specific to these motors.

Motor City Rick Enthusiast

Motor City Rick

Posted
Posted

Truckguy, I was one of those people who helped developed the 3.8 Buick Regal T-type / Grand Nationals (GNX included) turbo system for driveability issues. Syncing the turbo to a small V/6 to get big motor performance. I can say "Been there, ...Done that.".

 

Since you claim I have "zero experience". Explain to everybody these following questions: What is a turbo map and what is it used for? What does AR mean?? What boost is good for a "street use" motor? What is o - ringing? Spell out "What is the air temp drop to horsepower" formula? Why is ceramics important to turbo's? Why was sodium, inconel, and titanium valves used on turbo motors? Where is the anti drain back valve located? What is shear pressure? What is a more efficient intercooler, air to air or air to liquid. Explain what intercooler applications use what?

 

If you have more smarts than me on turbo's, ....answer ALL these questions that I posed as to PROVE ME WRONG in what I'm stating. Knowing your mindset you will deliver some deflectionary statement that it doesn't matter, ...or I don't have to answer your questions, ...or I'm blowing some chit out there and don't know what I'm talking about. Well, just answer ALL these questions as I posed and lets see if you "know anything" about turbo's. Too bad you didn't look at my 36 year automotive resume', did a lot of wild chit you can't imagine.

 

Now to get back on point, ....Just slamming a turbo on is the easy stuff, the hard part is eliminating turbo lag, severe spark detonation, keeping the constant 13.5 to 1 air fuel ratio in full boost mode to keep the pistons cool from detonation and mechanical disintegration motor components.

 

Is this kit specifically designed for the 5.3 liter or is it a generic fit turbo kit that fits multiple motor sizes? That is why I was asking about the turbo map issue.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Truckguy, I was one of those people who helped developed the 3.8 Buick Regal T-type / Grand Nationals (GNX included) turbo system for driveability issues. Syncing the turbo to a small V/6 to get big motor performance. I can say "Been there, ...Done that.".

 

Since you claim I have "zero experience". Explain to everybody these following questions: What is a turbo map and what is it used for? What does AR mean?? What boost is good for a "street use" motor? What is o - ringing? Spell out "What is the air temp drop to horsepower" formula? Why is ceramics important to turbo's? Why was sodium, inconel, and titanium valves used on turbo motors? Where is the anti drain back valve located? What is shear pressure? What is a more efficient intercooler, air to air or air to liquid. Explain what intercooler applications use what?

 

If you have more smarts than me on turbo's, ....answer ALL these questions that I posed as to PROVE ME WRONG in what I'm stating. Knowing your mindset you will deliver some deflectionary statement that it doesn't matter, ...or I don't have to answer your questions, ...or I'm blowing some chit out there and don't know what I'm talking about. Well, just answer ALL these questions as I posed and lets see if you "know anything" about turbo's. Too bad you didn't look at my 36 year automotive resume', did a lot of wild chit you can't imagine.

 

Now to get back on point, ....Just slamming a turbo on is the easy stuff, the hard part is eliminating turbo lag, severe spark detonation, keeping the constant 13.5 to 1 air fuel ratio in full boost mode to keep the pistons cool from detonation and mechanical disintegration motor components.

 

Is this kit specifically designed for the 5.3 liter or is it a generic fit turbo kit that fits multiple motor sizes? That is why I was asking about the turbo map issue.

:chill:

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