Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Just returned from a cross country trip, two things I never really paid attention to and after reading threads on here I looked for. One I was surprised to see there are a few 1/2 tons with goose necks pulling campers. Two I was informed that most tractor trailers run 65 mph on the interstate, saw very few of those.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Price of fuel is down, trucking companies remove the governor to allow more speed (and fuel consumption).



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted
11 hours ago, Logan Lanfear said:

They would bolt right up, they probably have an additional leaf in the pack.  RockAuto lists 3 different options for this truck, a 2+1 setup for three total springs in the rear.  A 3+1 setup for 4 total springs and a 5+1 for six springs.  The pack thickness ranges from about 2 inches to over 3 and a half.  It would be very easy to check your truck to see which spring options you have.  

Ok thanks I'll have to fine one and look at the spings on them I have a add a leaf I'm sure it helps some but probably not as much as the stock ones would I probably will still get a gooseneck I will be within the gcwr but just in the edge of the trucks gvwr and was wondering how they get a greater weight rating for them but looks like it's just in the springs 

Posted (edited)
On 10/25/2017 at 2:52 PM, sdeeter19555 said:

Price of fuel is down, trucking companies remove the governor to allow more speed (and fuel consumption).



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

 

Really?   Please show me where fuel price is down.  It may be from several years ago,  but it is up, year over year.  I drop about $60,000 a year is fuel for my semi truck and could use the break.  And very few outside of trucking fail to realize, the more in fuel you use, the more in taxes you pay to each state, whether you buy your fuel in their state or not.  IFTA is the rule of the game on that.   And companies removing governors to allow trucks to run faster?   It is not only fuel, but insurance and FMCSA CSA scores that drive company determination on max truck speeds.    I have no clue how fast my class 8 truck will run.  It has never been in top gear.  I have had it up to 80 mph, but still in 17th.  It has 18 gears.  Best guess via calculation is that at 1600 RPM in 18th gear, I would be doing 103 MPH.  Not even going to attempt that.    I typically run around 62-65 MPH in 16th (direct drive), about 1400 - 1475 RPM.  I beat the class 8 trucking industry average MPG by about 1.5 MPG.  that is is savings of roughly $8,000 a year in fuel. Plus I get substantially longer life out of my tires by running at more moderate speeds.  I average 225,000 miles on steer tires and 470,000 miles on drive tires.  Far better than most trucks in the business.  Hey, one drive tire for me is about $1200.  Hey, it's a business!   Every little penny I can squeeze in savings is more in net income.   Guess that is why I remained substantially more profitable even thru the recession of the the past 10 years.  In the first quarter of 2010, 70,000  trucks were shut down, out of business.  I pulled a net profit that quarter.

 

But hey, I do encourage all truckers to run as fast as they can!  Really!  I can benefit from when they go out of business or are shut down for loss of CDL (more than 2 major violations in a year results in a 6 month suspension of commercial driver's license, and you can't get of it by taking a defensive driver class)  or high CSA scores.  And those high CSA scores?  Many of the better shippers are demanding low CSA scores to get their business.  I don't want to haul junk.  I like my accounts that have great customers with virtually recession proof freight and pay higher than average rates for that kind  of service.  Very little  of that goofy Big Box warehouse or food store warehouse stuff that doesn't pay worth a darn and can waste a lot of time loading or unloading.  

Edited by Cowpie
  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 10/25/2017 at 6:45 PM, Rme2513 said:

Ok thanks I'll have to fine one and look at the spings on them I have a add a leaf I'm sure it helps some but probably not as much as the stock ones would I probably will still get a gooseneck I will be within the gcwr but just in the edge of the trucks gvwr and was wondering how they get a greater weight rating for them but looks like it's just in the springs 

Yes, it's just the stiffer rear springs that give the extra payload to the NHT.  If you have a fetish for factory stuff, the NHT springs will bolt right on.  However simply adding airbags will give you a dramatically better setup than the NHT springs.  If you're worried about blowing out a bag, it really just doesn't happen much if they're properly installed.  The typical Airlift or Firestone bags people use on these trucks have capacities way, way higher than you will ever use.  You're much more likely to blow out a tire.  If you do blow a bag your suspension will sag down to the point it's sagging now, that's all.  It would suck but it would be no worse than what you have now.

Posted
23 minutes ago, Jon A said:

Yes, it's just the stiffer rear springs that give the extra payload to the NHT.  If you have a fetish for factory stuff, the NHT springs will bolt right on.  However simply adding airbags will give you a dramatically better setup than the NHT springs.  If you're worried about blowing out a bag, it really just doesn't happen much if they're properly installed.  The typical Airlift or Firestone bags people use on these trucks have capacities way, way higher than you will ever use.  You're much more likely to blow out a tire.  If you do blow a bag your suspension will sag down to the point it's sagging now, that's all.  It would suck but it would be no worse than what you have now.

Thanks once I get the trailer and load everything on it I will see if I still need them and if so I will probably go with air bags or sumo springs thanks for the advice 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hitch is in now just waiting on the trailer not to hard to put on but just seams like there's not a lot holding onto the frame one bolt and one u bolt on each side 

IMG_0753.JPG

Edited by Rme2513
Posted

Nice!  Is that a B&W?  Don't be worried about how they're attached, they're very well proven and rated to way, way more than you'll ever tow with that truck.  They're very simply the best way to put weight on and tow weight with any truck.  Your sway issues are a thing of the past.  It looks like it ended up 3-4" in front of the axle?

 

Which trailer did you go with?  As you mentioned earlier in the thread, a lot of equipment trailers do have the wheels pretty far back so it's easy to get way more pin weight than you'd want so I'm sure you were careful of that.  But if one is to push the limits of the payload rating, a gooseneck is the by far the best and safest way to do it, and it's much easier on your truck than a big bumper pull.

Posted
10 hours ago, Jon A said:

Nice!  Is that a B&W?  Don't be worried about how they're attached, they're very well proven and rated to way, way more than you'll ever tow with that truck.  They're very simply the best way to put weight on and tow weight with any truck.  Your sway issues are a thing of the past.  It looks like it ended up 3-4" in front of the axle?

 

Which trailer did you go with?  As you mentioned earlier in the thread, a lot of equipment trailers do have the wheels pretty far back so it's easy to get way more pin weight than you'd want so I'm sure you were careful of that.  But if one is to push the limits of the payload rating, a gooseneck is the by far the best and safest way to do it, and it's much easier on your truck than a big bumper pull.

Yes it is a B&W and is about 4" in front of the axil. The trailer is a big tex 14 GP 20' weighs about 3500# it is one of the lightest I could find around here for the price now just have to wait and see how it all goes when it gets here 

Posted

Looks like a nice trailer, one heck of an upgrade!

 

You were asking before about ratings. The newer owners manuals have ratings for 5th wheel/goosenecks for 1500s now which you could use as a rough guide.  For example in the 2017 manual, the rating for a 4X4 Crew cab Standard box NHT 6.2 is 10,500 lbs and 8200 for non-NHT maximum trailer weight for goosenecks.  These are around 1,000 less than for bumper pull from configuration to configuration for most 1500's as they're payload limited and SAE J2807 uses a minimum of 15% for goosenecks vs. 10% for bumper pulls.  You can see how that added 400 lbs of payload really helps the rating for NHT's.  Obviously, as with bumper pulls, those are maximums--not a guarantee every trailer of that weight will be towable without exceeding payload.

 

They don't list a maximum pin weight as they do tongue weight for bumper pulls as the payload/rear axle rating will be the limiting factor.  But no, the 1200 lbs listed for bumper pulls does not apply.  With a gooseneck, you don't need to overload the pin weight in order for them to pull nicely as you do the tongue weight with some bumper pull trailers but it can also be easy to do.  It doesn't look like you'll have a ton of room for adjustment (it's much easier when hauling shorter stuff--skid steer, etc) but if you were having trouble with too little tongue weight with that load before, hopefully you'll end up "just right" with the new trailer.

 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 2/5/2018 at 6:57 PM, Rme2513 said:

Hitch is in now just waiting on the trailer not to hard to put on but just seams like there's not a lot holding onto the frame one bolt and one u bolt on each side 

IMG_0753.JPG

Didn't realize you were in GA until I saw the GON sticker.  Whereabouts are you?  I'm in Effingham.

 

 

edit: another vote for firestone airbags from me.  Love them for all of my wide variety of loads.

Edited by Robopie
Posted
45 minutes ago, Robopie said:

Didn't realize you were in GA until I saw the GON sticker.  Whereabouts are you?  I'm in Effingham.

 

 

edit: another vote for firestone airbags from me.  Love them for all of my wide variety of loads.

Leesburg Ga 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

3a8b2f55ea0c4b430f6b417b46f4c536.jpgba8ee890948053c0bb28c1b5b03655d5.jpg Well here it is have only pulled it home not loaded yet but looks to sit ok have to see how it pulls in a few weeks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Dropped the back 3.25" and the front only .2" so not to bad may end up putting bags on the truck to pick it back up 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,764
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Tbhats2130
    Newest Member
    Tbhats2130
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,109 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...