Jump to content

best AT tires for winter?


CbrownGT

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm in the market for some new AT tires for my stock 18's for winter (and eventually be switched to my summer wheels). I ran the stock tires last 3 winters and am done with them, garbage. I currently have 285/65/18 Toyo AT2's on my summer wheels. They've been nice but they're getting really slick in rain, even at 5-6/32nds of tread left...I've never run them in snow so i don't know what they're like. I'm located in hilly western PA. I'm looking at other AT options in 275/70/18...a better size for winter traction and better price point than 285's. Just want a solid AT tire for year round, but winter performance is #1. Any input is greatly appreciated!

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Interested in this same topic. Close to pulling the trigger on a level and some larger AT’s for my stock 20’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

If they're going to be dedicated to winter use, I'd get winter tires... The compound is softer so you get better traction at lower temps. Blizzaks pretty much rule the winter tire world... If you want AT's so you can use 'em year round I believe Firestone had the best AT tire when I was looking a couple of years back.. I wound up with Cooper AT's and they've been OK, a little slick on the wet roads now with 29k miles on 'em.

Posted

I will be running Cooper Discoverer A/T3 once my factory rubber is replaced. I was a big fan of my last set on my old truck. Good winter traction, not a ridiculous tread for summer. I think Cooper is a good value and good tread life.

 

A lot of people like the BFG K02 tires, but I think you can get equivalent performance for less money elsewhere. 

Posted
2 minutes ago, aseibel said:

I will be running Cooper Discoverer A/T3 once my factory rubber is replaced. I was a big fan of my last set on my old truck. Good winter traction, not a ridiculous tread for summer. I think Cooper is a good value and good tread life.

 

A lot of people like the BFG K02 tires, but I think you can get equivalent performance for less money elsewhere. 

yeah i'm looking long and hard at the ko2's, but the price..I noticed Cooper now has the AT/W. Which is basically the AT3 with a few small changes and different compound so it has the "snowflake" rating. They're around $200 per tire vs $240 per for the KO2. Other than price the biggest difference between the KO2 and the AT3/ATw is the appearance. KO2 much more aggressive looking than both Coopers.

Posted
8 minutes ago, CbrownGT said:

Other than price the biggest difference between the KO2 and the AT3/ATw is the appearance. KO2 much more aggressive looking than both Coopers.

Aggressive looking tread doesn't always equate to better performance. As Imcrazy said, Blizzak is the best straight up snow tires. look at their tread patterns. They are more square shapes.

 

I think Cooper offers some good tires that perform well in winter, but are not overly noisy, fuel guzzling for the rest of the year. I like them for all year use. Of course you can go as aggressive as you want, but aggressive mud tread is different than snow tread which you seemed to indicate was important to you. I think BFG is popular because it has a unique/ recognizable tread shape. I'm not sold that its any better in snow. just my two cents.

Posted

I ran KO's for quite a while but the price got out of hand IMO for the performance you got. 

I have Cooper ATP on now. No complaints. Getting noisy at 50 mph with 20 k miles.  

Going to look at Cooper Starfire. I know someone who has them that is happy with them.

He says good traction and quiet.

:happysad:

Posted
Aggressive looking tread doesn't always equate to better performance. As Imcrazy said, Blizzak is the best straight up snow tires. look at their tread patterns. They are more square shapes.
 
I think Cooper offers some good tires that perform well in winter, but are not overly noisy, fuel guzzling for the rest of the year. I like them for all year use. Of course you can go as aggressive as you want, but aggressive mud tread is different than snow tread which you seemed to indicate was important to you. I think BFG is popular because it has a unique/ recognizable tread shape. I'm not sold that its any better in snow. just my two cents.
Girlfriend had KOs on a Jeep Cherokee, snow performance and/or traction was no better than any other AT tire. We were running Mastercraft (a subsidiary of Cooper) tires our 2500s at the time, and their AT performed just as good.

I've ran BFG tires over the years, not one has really impressed me to be "that much better" than any other comparable tire. Their Rugged Trail is an absolute horror to run in snow when they have a few miles on them...even while showing excellent tread remaining.

I'm torn with regards to the OP's question also as I'm in the same boat...I don't need a dedicated winter tire, but I also travel into the snow belt several times a year in the winter. My HT3 is getting slippery on wet roads, so I know they will suck with any slicked up winter roads; and need replaced before snow flies...which in itself is a quandary as it may snow a couple times a year where I live, but I'm guaranteed it will snow in the snow belt where my parents are at! But I also commute 100 miles a day on mainly bare roads...my HT3 have 45k on them and are still about 50%; only got about 25k out of the last set of Cooper ATP I had on this truck.

I used to run two sets of rim/tires for this very reason...but finding a used set of wheels is impossible around here, and then the TPMS adds to the fun.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm not trying to say that aggressive looking tires are not good in snow. I'm just pointing out that the visible "aggressiveness" does not automatically make it a good snow tire. The type of rubber matters more. You can have a blizzak snow tire with square lugs work way better than the most "aggressive" looking M/T tire. Don't buy your tires solely based on appearance.

Posted

Duratracs are amazing in snow. Not sure why by the looks of them but they are great. Also very expensive in 20". I'm looking at the duratracs, cooper atw or grabber artic next in 17 or 18 inch when mine wear out. The duratracs are quiet for an extreme A/T but you can feel the treads at low speeds and they aren't going to get any quieter. They seem to be wearing well but will not last past 30-35k. 

 

Posted

I just got the Falken Wildpeak AT3 but no snow yet. The Salesman at Discount Tire has them on his Ram 1500 with about 20k miles on them and he said he loves them and they did great in the winter.

IMG_20170927_185852_372.jpg

Posted
36 minutes ago, Gorske said:

I just got the Falken Wildpeak AT3 but no snow yet. The Salesman at Discount Tire has them on his Ram 1500 with about 20k miles on them and he said he loves them and they did great in the winter.

IMG_20170927_185852_372.jpg

no salesman would say they were bad in the winter lol. I've eliminated the KO2's from my list. I'm down to the Cooper AT3 and the Cooper A/TW which is the same as AT3 but some small differences in tread and compounds so better for winter. I can get a set of "blemished" (new, just mis-aligned letters) AT3's from a guy for $570 vs $615 new on TireBuyer. A/TW's are almost $700.

Posted
7 minutes ago, CbrownGT said:

no salesman would say they were bad in the winter lol. I've eliminated the KO2's from my list. I'm down to the Cooper AT3 and the Cooper A/TW which is the same as AT3 but some small differences in tread and compounds so better for winter. I can get a set of "blemished" (new, just mis-aligned letters) AT3's from a guy for $570 vs $615 new on TireBuyer. A/TW's are almost $700.

That is true about the salesman, but I did check out his truck and they seemed to not wear down as fast as other ATs I've seen. I got all 4 mounted, balanced, and with the extra road hazard for 615 vs the 875 they wanted for Duratracs which were my first option till they showed me the Wildpeak AT3.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • When I had a Bumper subscription for a few days when I needed to run title histories on cars I was looking at, I decided to look up a few of my old/past vehicles.   My 2015 Silverado was still actively registered and it last sold in 2024 with 160k on the clock. No idea if that's on the original engine but someone's keeping it on the road or the original AFM stuff is still going.   It used 0w20. I remember feeding it Mobil 0w20 AFE for the first 30k of its life on <5k OCI's.     Edit: Just did a nationwide search on Autotrader for 2015-2025 Silverados with 5.3's and sorted by highest mileage first.   357k 352k 292k 291k 290k 277k 271k 268k 266k 259k 256k   High mileage on a modern 5.3 doesn't seem all that uncommon, but that's just searching mostly dealer ads on Autotrader. FB Marketplace has all kinds of high mileage 5.3's going back to 2007    
    • I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
    • 2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...