Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Did my fluids last night in a 2007 escalade ext, and on a YouTube video I saw the guy with the same truck and he did:

Front diff fill plug 13 lb foot
Front diff drain plug 13 lb foot
Rear fill plug 13 lb foot
Rear diff cover case 13 lb ft


i used the same torque specs that he did but when i read online it seems like its 24lb ft for the drain and fill plug, and then 29lb ft for the rear cover bolts.

ive been driving around for a day or two and no leaks. i should probably torque it up to 24 and 29 if its supposed to be that high
 

Posted

Specs are dependent on what rear axle you have.  If its got a fill plug in the cover and no drain, specs are as follows:

 

Rear Axle:

 

Fill plug - 24ft.lbs. (fill plug in the cover itself)

 

Diff cover bolts - 30ft.lbs. 

 

Front Axle:

 

Drain and fill plugs - 24ft.lbs.

 

 

Posted

Yeah I've read the same thing as @newdude

 

front diff fill plug and drain plug 24 ft lb

rear diff case bolts 29 ft lb

and rear diff fill plug 24 lb ft

 

 

thag means I should probably tightener up a bit more 

Posted

I would think 24 ft-lb on a cover bolt would warp the cover...or cause the seal to leak.

I only go a little beyond snug with a 1/4" ratchet...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

well i tightened up to 24 ft lbs for the plugs and the difference was minimal.
i barely applied any muscle and it clicked for 24. it was at 13 ft lbs before

is the difference between 13ft lbs and 24 ft lbs barely anything?

Posted

attached pic of service manual. he is correct. seems like 24 ft lbs for both the front and rear fill and drain plug and also 30lb ft for the case(i think its on the other page)

diff.png

Posted (edited)

I have been changing diff and Xfer fluids since the late 1960's and I have never torqued down bolts on covers or plugs.  I just have never considered it.  Maybe just the way I was taught about such things growing up on the farm.  I just do it by "feel".  Now, of course, heads, manifolds, etc, they would get torqued.  I guess I am always amazed at how much into detail some folks go regarding this sort of stuff.  Nothing wrong with it.  Not sure it is all that necessary though.

Edited by Cowpie
  • Like 3
Posted

Yeah I know what you mean! It's just for piece of mind because when they were tightened with a wrench it leaked a slight bit so I torqued it to 29 each and now it seems like it's good. I checked the level as well and barely anything leaked iht

Posted (edited)
On ‎10‎/‎30‎/‎2017 at 1:45 PM, sdeeter19555 said:

Ft-lb or in-lb? Seems high for a drain plug...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

 

On ‎10‎/‎30‎/‎2017 at 3:03 PM, 007matman said:

I agree.. I'd double-check that. It seems high.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

 

All specs I posted are right from GM.

Edited by newdude
Posted
 
All specs I posted are right from GM.
Sounds good.

Just be careful though. I know I stripped one. Don't know if it's a manufacturer defect or what that caused it but I'm just happy it hasn't decided to leak.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

special torques on drain plugs is redundant anyone who is mechanically inclined knows that drain plugs and fill plugs have little or no pressure from any leaks on them However I can see where a greenhorn may not know what tight enough is , different applications are more important such as Aluminum or magneseum cases or housing that can be damaged from over tightening

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • This is going to take allot of Assembly    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...