Jump to content

Dead battery?


silverWS6

Recommended Posts

Posted

What's up fellas? Had an issue with my Silverado today. Went this morning to start it, and it was dead. Jumped it with my car and it went on without an issue, or so I thought. Ran to Sam's then to Wal-Mart and came back home. Parked it and about an hour later went out to drive it again, it was dead again! I had to jump it again and went on to do another errand. Left it running for about 45 min. Came back home and went on about my day. Well right now before I put it in the garage, dead again. Jumped it again and put it inside.

 

I know, I should've taken it to Autozone to get checked or something and shouldn't have been jumping it. Well we we're hosting a birthday party and that was outta the question. I plan on doing that tomorrow. Anyways, truck is a 2014, 5.3, 47k miles. No warning lights or anything, according to the voltage on the dash it looks normal. What gives? Could my battery really be dead just overnight?

 

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Yup.  Are you on the original battery?  if so, you're due for a new one.  Batteries these days make it 3-4 years tops in MOST (NOT ALL!!) cases. 

Posted

Well, I guess after reading a bit. It's pretty common at this mileage? That's a bit disappointing.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

Posted

Very common.  I made it to 34,000 on my 2013 Impala when the battery went out.  Dealer replaced it under warranty. 

Posted

Don't feel too bad though, you don't have 2 batteries like I do in my truck :( 

 

Posted

Yeah, it's original. I can't believe that. My uncle has a 2012 or 2011 Silverado and he's still running his oem battery. I remember batteries going on for years!

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

Posted

My batter only made it 30,000 miles. Glad the warranty covered it.

Posted

Mine went in my 2016 already around 30K miles. My last Ram battery lasted almost 6 years to the day. Factory batteries should last longer than 2-3 years. Also, that really must hurt GM battery sales. If my battery died in 1-3 years there is no way I would put my money back into another battery from the dealer.

 

My Ram battery lasted so long I went with another Mopar battery. The rest of the truck though.......

 

I generally get 5-6 years out of my boat batteries. They never even see a trickle charger over winter. Just disconnect and they start fine in the spring with no issues. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Mine just went this weekend 43200 miles. $220 for a new agm 1000 ca. Unreal and a pain in the a** to change. 

Posted
On 11/13/2017 at 6:21 AM, 20165.3Eco said:

Mine went in my 2016 already around 30K miles. My last Ram battery lasted almost 6 years to the day. Factory batteries should last longer than 2-3 years. Also, that really must hurt GM battery sales. If my battery died in 1-3 years there is no way I would put my money back into another battery from the dealer.

 

My Ram battery lasted so long I went with another Mopar battery. The rest of the truck though.......

 

I generally get 5-6 years out of my boat batteries. They never even see a trickle charger over winter. Just disconnect and they start fine in the spring with no issues. 

Things have changed big time in the past 5-10 years.  2-3 years is the new norm now, across the board, not just for GM. 

Posted

Batteries can fail without warning. I change mine every 4 years no matter how well it spins over. .............mileage means nothing.

Posted

Battery in my wife's 2007  Toyota  never been replaced,  knock on wood!  I was going to replace it awhile back as a precaution but the service tech said the current battery charges fine and not to waste my money!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It would be sold as a "kit", lights + auth/programming code.   You can resell the code to someone else, if they just buy the lights, either new or used, and they can then use the code to get them to work on their truck.
    • Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...