Plowing with a '13 2500HD 6.0L electrical charging

[stallion81]

Anybody here plowing with a 2013 Silverado 2500HD? Mine did not have plow prep package and had the Bosch 125 amp alt. I switched to the 160 that was available, and changed my battery from a small Duralast 660CCA/95 reserve, to a X2(batteries plus) with 730CCA/137 reserve. This is a AGM deep cycle battery now. 

 

I never plowed with the 125 AMP and Duralast, but seen the battery gauge drop just on pickup. I did plow for 2+ hours the other day with the 160 AMP Alt and the small Duralast, I stuggled with side to side on the plow. I've never seen a truck struggle so much with the dash gauge and plow action as this 2013. I put the new battery in today, and with the plow up, went side to side several times in a row, and its much better, but still will hesitate, and the dash gauge goes well below 14 and takes time to recover.

 

The plow is brand new Snoway 29HD @ 8' blade. The Battery is brand new and so is the Alt.

 

Need to know how you guys set this truck up for plowing electrical style. I'm debating the the "BIG 3" and another battery piggybacked, or both. Just not sure if the PCM "regulates" anything from the alternator. It has a 175A fuse on the stock battery post. 

 

Any help appreciated.

[casey.mikl]

Get another battery and piggy back them. I have 2 batteries in my 2011 6.0 2500hd. It does have the plow package. However I am in Florida and don’t need it. It was used as a plow truck in new York prior to me getting it. I have the 2 batteries hard wired together like a diesel truck. I have no issues. I have the positive running to the positive of the factory battery post, and the negative going to the motor factory ground. All of my accessories are wired to the second battery and all the factory stuff is on the main battery.


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[casey.mikl]

Get another battery and piggy back them. I have 2 batteries in my 2011 6.0 2500hd. It does have the plow package. However I am in Florida and don’t need it. It was used as a plow truck in new York prior to me getting it. I have the 2 batteries hard wired together like a diesel truck. I have no issues. I have the positive running to the positive of the factory battery post, and the negative going to the motor factory ground. All of my accessories are wired to the second battery and all the factory stuff is on the main battery.


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[crankman]

I would add a second battery wire them in parallel. I did that when I added my winch and it will give you more capacity.  

[sdeeter19555]

The main issue with plowing (and winching) is the alternator isn't spun fast enough for long enough to put out the maximum amperage.

Adding a second battery provides the added capacity between plowing (and winching) events so the alternator can catch back up.

Steve
2012 2500hd

[stallion81]

Well I'll definitely work on the 2nd Battery today. I'm assuming that the 2011 is gotta be pretty much just like my 13. I'm  just assuming that the snow plow package basically is just the bigger alternator(thats what it used to be with most trucks).  I did swap my original 125 Amp to the bigger 160 Amp ALT. 

My positive battery post has a 175 Amp fusible link that runs to the Alternator charge wire, is your guys trucks the same?

Also can anybody else confirm their dual battery wiring? I've heard both ways for the 2nd battery, pos/pos always and neg/neg OR neg/engine ground. Also do you guys have a fuse between the batteries on the positive wire?

Thanks for your help. 

[sdeeter19555]

Well I'll definitely work on the 2nd Battery today. I'm assuming that the 2011 is gotta be pretty much just like my 13. I'm  just assuming that the snow plow package basically is just the bigger alternator(thats what it used to be with most trucks).  I did swap my original 125 Amp to the bigger 160 Amp ALT. 
My positive battery post has a 175 Amp fusible link that runs to the Alternator charge wire, is your guys trucks the same?
Also can anybody else confirm their dual battery wiring? I've heard both ways for the 2nd battery, pos/pos always and neg/neg OR neg/engine ground. Also do you guys have a fuse between the batteries on the positive wire?
Thanks for your help. 

Pos/pos, neg/neg with #00 wire is how mine is setup. No fuse between the batteries.

That 175a fuse is normal in the GM system, that is the standard fuse and works with any charging system they install. I would not alter that...

Plow "package" is a little more...skid plates, different torsion bars, beacon wiring, alternator...just to name a few. But most of it can be had separately or in other packages.

Steve
2012 2500hd 6.0l

[sdeeter19555]

I had my cables custom made, used a piece of garden hose to approximate the length since it bends similar to heavy cable.

Steve
2012 2500hd 6.0l

[aseibel]

34 minutes ago, sdeeter19555 said:

Pos/pos, neg/neg with #00 wire is how mine is setup. No fuse between the batteries.

I had the same wiring setup on my 1998 plow truck. ran great. not much noticeable drop in voltage with operating the plow. I was able to find some 2/0 cables at my local farm/auto/garden store. (That was before amazon.) https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/deka-commercial-duty-battery-cable/0000000038129?Ntt=battery cable

 

You can get all fancy with fuses and isolators, etc. It may save you one battery if the other one dies. Remember that if one battery is shot, it will kill the second. But if you put 2 new ones in together they will work fine for a long time.

[casey.mikl]

I made my cables, no fuse between them. I used welding cable for mine. Works good. I think I ordered 2 10 foot pieces and did it that way. Soldered and crimped lugs on each end with heat shrink over them. Ran them along the fire wall on top. Zip tired them out of the way and it’s all good


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[sdeeter19555]

I had the same wiring setup on my 1998 plow truck. ran great. not much noticeable drop in voltage with operating the plow. I was able to find some 2/0 cables at my local farm/auto/garden store. (That was before amazon.) https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/deka-commercial-duty-battery-cable/0000000038129?Ntt=battery cable
 
You can get all fancy with fuses and isolators, etc. It may save you one battery if the other one dies. Remember that if one battery is shot, it will kill the second. But if you put 2 new ones in together they will work fine for a long time.

My cables were made by Deka at their factory outlet...my second battery is a Deka factory second even! It and the OE battery are still going strong after five years! Probably should replace them next summer...

Steve
2012 2500hd 6.0l

[stallion81]

OK, thanks guys here is where I'm at. Both batteries are brand new, well one ran in the truck 3 days before wiring in the 2nd battery. The main is a X2 from Batteries Plus, 2nd is a Duration Extreme from Farm and Fleet, both size 48 AGM's very similar.

 

I got some 2/0 (same as #00 wire I believe) SAE J- 1127 rated at 105 degrees C. I cut to length and had "my plow installer" crimp the lugs on for me. Liquid flux and I soldered and shrink wrapped them all. I'm leary soldering electric,  last time was my wifes 03 Tahoe's dash stepper motors, but hell this is like sweating pipe =) .

 

I'm Pos/Pos and Neg/Neg direct to batteries. I also changed the main battery to engine ground to this. Both battery wires are wrapped in plastic wire protector, however the engine ground is not as the "original wire" wasn't.

 

So what do you guys think about the 3 other thing I'm debating?

 

1) Alternator charge wire. Mine is probably 6 gauge. Go to a high quality 4?

2) Engine to chassis strap ground. Add another or change existing? Looks like it goes behind the engine on the driver side, I ran outta daylight so I cant confirm how hard the engine mount side is to get too. 

3) Plow supply leads. These were obviously hooked to the main as I only had 1 battery on install. Should I attempt to move those to the 2nd battery? I'm unsure I have the length in the harness, but it would be easy to find out. Would it make a difference since the batteries are in parallel anyway?

Thanks for your time. 

[sdeeter19555]

I would run the setup you have now, see if that improves your problems. If not, then start looking at upgrading the alternator wiring.

Steve
2012 2500hd 6.0l

[dewfpo]

x2,  The 3 things you list I do not feel will help.  The alternator is not going to keep up with the load, it cannot and is not supposed to.  The batteries are there to make up the difference when the load exceeds alternator output.  The alternator just pumps the batteries back up as their capacity is reduced.

 

An extra ground from engine to chassis might help but I agree with sdeeter19555.  Run it as you have it and see what the issues really are now.

 

DEWFPO

 

 

[stallion81]

Right guys, I do agree with you both after a bit more research. The trucks alt output is limited by the PCM and that basically translates to RPM's, from what I've read.

 

I think I'll be good to go, next plow will tell the tale. Side to side in the air about 16 x's and it responds fine, and that is at idle. I only have 1 lot that might hit 3+ hours depending on snow. Nothing else goes over 1.5 hours. I do all commercial, no driveways but mine and a few family(no $$ in that).

 

I think since I did the large wiring, I will change the Alt charge wire and add another engine/chassis ground, but I will wait till after a live plow. Might as well get the least resistance possible, after spending the money I already did. I had to buy local as it was "supposed" to snow today, but hay lucky me now gets to watch football(not a bad thing, but no bills are paid). I should be able to get the wiring much cheaper online.

 

I've been plowing in my 2001 dodge ram 2500 for the last 4 years with no issues like this, but I really dont ever want to get in that truck again after getting in this Chevy(except test drive to sell) =P .

 

Thanks for the help getting me in the right direction.......Now on to my wifes 03 Tahoe, with the ghost cold no start problem......BUT thats a new thread . Looks like I'm officially a Chevy guy once I sell my dodge.