Jump to content

Best Spark Plugs & Wires?!?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I read either ACDelco or NGK for plugs, and MSD, ACDelco, or B&B for the wires? Should I replace the coil packs too? I have a 2000 Silverado.

 

im thinking of MSD #32829 8.5mm Super Conductors and NGK Laser Iridium? 

 

I just want want to get The Best if I’m going to do it.

Posted

Depends on the setup. My turbo NGK. My old SB2 block was N/A so autolite made 800hp back in the day. 

 

Spark plug wire ac delco performance is by far best bang for buck. you will not see any difference to pay 2-3 times more for MSD but they are good also. 

 

Nitrous cars are a whole different animal. 

 

I have cars with all 3 power adders and even go kart with nitrous. I check plugs more than I check oil. LOL

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/16/2018 at 4:07 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

Depends on the setup. My turbo NGK. My old SB2 block was N/A so autolite made 800hp back in the day. 

 

Spark plug wire ac delco performance is by far best bang for buck. you will not see any difference to pay 2-3 times more for MSD but they are good also. 

 

Nitrous cars are a whole different animal. 

 

I have cars with all 3 power adders and even go kart with nitrous. I check plugs more than I check oil. LOL

haha dang boy! I always wanted to get nitrous when I was younger and really into cars. it'd definitely be awesome, I still have yet to ride in one let alone drive one with nitrous!

 

I actually just bought some msd super conductor 8.5mm and ngk platinums, hopefully i'll get to install them next weekend, but I have to figure out this battery electrical short I keep having when I go to start my truck!?!?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I heard NGK made acdelcos plugs...

 

But Yeah I got the MSD Super Conductors 8.5mm precut wires #32829 and NGK laser double platinum plugs #3784 and they are working great!!!

Posted

Whatever you do, don't waste your money on E3 plugs. I learned that the hard way with my previous truck thinking I would get a little better performance and mileage, both of which were advertised. The only thing I gained from them was a heavy misfire after only 30,000 miles. I got wise real quick and replaced them with Delco plugs. Problem solved. I did however like the look of the MSD wires I had put on as well. Stick with factory Delco components. You can't go wrong.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...