Jump to content

2018 Silverado 2500hd homelink mod

billkater
 Share

Recommended Posts

Brummie99 Enthusiast

Brummie99

Posted
Posted

I couldn't bring myself to drop $200+ on a new console so I took an existing remote, bought a switch and a 12v-3v converter, wired the switch to the remote and the remote to RAP. The remote is tucked behind the console and secured with Velcro so it doesn't rattle around. Under $10 excluding the remote which I already had.

 

IMG_2937.thumb.JPG.28767054ce55cfd329fc9f5624e25990.JPG

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 38
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Brummie99
Brummie99

Here ya go. The small box at the top is the DC-DC converter.

DESERT DOG
DESERT DOG

I just put this one in my 2018. This new number is about $60 cheaper than the one it replaced.  Complete panel except air bag light, easily removed from the old one. Works great!  https://www.gmp

DESERT DOG
DESERT DOG

Yes that is it!

Posted Images

anrios Enthusiast

anrios

Posted
Posted

I'm trying to do this to my 2018 Custom, Double Cab. I have the harness and module + buttons. I can't seem to get a good number for the trim piece that houses the buttons/lights, etc. The one I came up with, and ordered is to big to fit in my console (#23104432). Does someone know the number for that piece? Or do I have to replace the whole console to do this? If so, the number stated in the thread as the correct console is "no longer available" all the dealer sites I've checked...

Thanks, in advance, for any help.

  • 2 weeks later...
peterlawl84 Enthusiast

peterlawl84

Posted
Posted
On 8/29/2018 at 11:09 PM, Brummie99 said:

I couldn't bring myself to drop $200+ on a new console so I took an existing remote, bought a switch and a 12v-3v converter, wired the switch to the remote and the remote to RAP. The remote is tucked behind the console and secured with Velcro so it doesn't rattle around. Under $10 excluding the remote which I already had.

 

IMG_2937.thumb.JPG.28767054ce55cfd329fc9f5624e25990.JPG

can you provide more info?  pics of how it is mounted underneath that?  I want to add this rather than having my remote clipped to the visor, but trouble justifying spending that much money when I'll be giving the truck to the kids in a year. 

Brummie99 Enthusiast

Brummie99

Posted
Posted
44 minutes ago, peterlawl84 said:

can you provide more info?  pics of how it is mounted underneath that?  I want to add this rather than having my remote clipped to the visor, but trouble justifying spending that much money when I'll be giving the truck to the kids in a year. 

I don't have pics behind the panel but there's plenty of space behind to mount it. It's mounted with Velcro to the back of the panel just so it doesn't rattle. It took me a couple of hours to install much of which was the fiddly part of soldering the wires to the remote PCB. I initially had the remote running off its own battery but decided to wire it to a switched source so someone can't just smash my window and get into my garage.

peterlawl84 Enthusiast

peterlawl84

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, Brummie99 said:

I don't have pics behind the panel but there's plenty of space behind to mount it. It's mounted with Velcro to the back of the panel just so it doesn't rattle. It took me a couple of hours to install much of which was the fiddly part of soldering the wires to the remote PCB. I initially had the remote running off its own battery but decided to wire it to a switched source so someone can't just smash my window and get into my garage.

do you recall which wires you tapped into? also how is the switch connected to the garage door opener?

Brummie99 Enthusiast

Brummie99

Posted
Posted
19 minutes ago, peterlawl84 said:

do you recall which wires you tapped into? also how is the switch connected to the garage door opener?

I ran a 12v from the drivers side fuse panel. See this post:

I have a couple of wires running from the switch in the panel soldered to the back of the button on the remote PCB.

 

I'll try and get some pics later.

 

peterlawl84 Enthusiast

peterlawl84

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Brummie99 said:

I ran a 12v from the drivers side fuse panel. See this post:

I have a couple of wires running from the switch in the panel soldered to the back of the button on the remote PCB.

 

I'll try and get some pics later.

 

thanks for the info, will be tackling this project soon! so really, I could hide this switch else where if you were not tapping into any of the wires in the upper console.

Brummie99 Enthusiast

Brummie99

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, peterlawl84 said:

thanks for the info, will be tackling this project soon! so really, I could hide this switch else where if you were not tapping into any of the wires in the upper console.

Sure. I did the same mod on my wife's wrangler. The button for that is in the top of the coin holder. You'd never find it if you didn't know it was there.

  • 3 weeks later...
peterlawl84 Enthusiast

peterlawl84

Posted
Posted

So just FYI for anyone interested. I was going to do the above and sodder in a button and hide a stock remote, but after pricing everything out (including a new remote as I usually grab the remote to move between other vehicles as well) and it turned out to be not much more than to purchase a new overhead console on Ebay. (PN: 84083245).  It is a direct replacement, took 5 minutes to remove the old console, pop out the airbag light and plug into new one.  This is a direct plug a play with the only thing I had to unplug was the large main harness and plug in the new one.  I did NOT have the have any extra plugs to try and plug in or find a ground or power wire.  Already programmed the home link and working with no issues. 

Brummie99 Enthusiast

Brummie99

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, peterlawl84 said:

So just FYI for anyone interested. I was going to do the above and sodder in a button and hide a stock remote, but after pricing everything out (including a new remote as I usually grab the remote to move between other vehicles as well) and it turned out to be not much more than to purchase a new overhead console on Ebay. (PN: 84083245).  It is a direct replacement, took 5 minutes to remove the old console, pop out the airbag light and plug into new one.  This is a direct plug a play with the only thing I had to unplug was the large main harness and plug in the new one.  I did NOT have the have any extra plugs to try and plug in or find a ground or power wire.  Already programmed the home link and working with no issues. 

How much did you pay? I looked on ebay when I was considering this but couldn't find the correct one. I just found one for $100 plus shipping but that's still 10 times what mine cost. A new remote can be had for about $20.

 

peterlawl84 Enthusiast

peterlawl84

Posted
Posted

I got mine for $90, new remote for my opener is $40.  Plus the cost of all the other stuff (since I don't know where my sodder gun is, Id have to buy a new one) plus my time, less than 10 minutes overall done with install and programming.  Not dissing your method, just saying for less than $50 difference and my time saved, it was worth it to me. 

Brummie99 Enthusiast

Brummie99

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, peterlawl84 said:

I got mine for $90, new remote for my opener is $40.  Plus the cost of all the other stuff (since I don't know where my sodder gun is, Id have to buy a new one) plus my time, less than 10 minutes overall done with install and programming.  Not dissing your method, just saying for less than $50 difference and my time saved, it was worth it to me. 

I hear you. When I was looking, couldn't find the right console on ebay so was looking at $200+ for a new one. In your position I would probably have done the same.

SoonerInFl New Member

SoonerInFl

Posted
Posted
On 3/5/2018 at 7:58 PM, billkater said:

I found this part on this site

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/gm-console-assembly-23396113/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9b3ZlcmhlYWQtY29uc29sZSZpPUdIMTU1NjA1JnI9bGF5ZXJfMSZhPWNoZXZyb2xldCZvPXNpbHZlcmFkby0yNTAwLWhkJnk9MjAxNyZ0PXd0JmU9Ni0wbC12OC1mbGV4

It shows the console with work on a 2014, 2015, 2016, and 2017 all trim packages. Surely it will work on a 2018 since it is the last model year before the design change. I just cant find any documentation to prove it.

What do you think?

Bill

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

Hello, just had my Silverado since November 20 this year.  My first mod was adding HomeLink and I bought mine through eBay under 2014-2018 Silverado Overhead Console with HomeLink for total of $93.00.  It was fairly simple to install about 15 minutes, but Chevy did change the 2018 Overhead Console.  The two screws did not fit anymore from the older Overhead Console, but that's okay.  The two pressure pins and clips on the side holds the older Console securely, and I can confirm the sunglass holder is a tad different (smaller in the older version).  It was pretty much a plug and play with 3 power plug adapters that needed to removed and reinstalled.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      This video may not be the exact content for the joke thread but its a lot of laughs so here it is, I've only watched a portion of it so far but if anyone is looking for some light hearted good soap box driving action, its here. As a note in the upper left of the screen it shows the number out of 100 to refer back to any particular vehicle for comment !.    https://www.facebook.com/reel/1351928276956715
    • SFC Retired
      2023 DRW Wheel Liners

      By SFC Retired · Posted

      Did have to make 1 modification because of the WeatherTech rear mud flaps and that was needing 3 longer screws than what came with the install package. 😄
    • SFC Retired
      2023 DRW Wheel Liners

      By SFC Retired · Posted

      Picked up the liners yesterday. Installed passenger side WITHOUT any modifications. All mounting holes lined up perfectly. Rain is interfering today with drivers side. Very Happy! Will add pics when finished
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...