Jump to content

2018 2500HD Tire Replacement/Upgrade

cdh7917

By cdh7917
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Skeld Enthusiast

Skeld

Posted
Posted

One thing to note, the 275/65R20 BFG KO2's seem extremely narrow in my opinion.  Anyone else notice this?  I have some on +18 20X9 wheels and I'm not crazy about it.

 

I had some 305/55R20 Cooper STT mounted on them last year and I hated the road noise and I went back to stock wheels and the BFGs (sold the Coopers)  This setup looked ok but it did rub the front fenderwell material I believe in the front of the passenger side on a tight left hand turn.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted
One thing to note, the 275/65R20 BFG KO2's seem extremely narrow in my opinion.  Anyone else notice this?  I have some on +18 20X9 wheels and I'm not crazy about it.
 
I had some 305/55R20 Cooper STT mounted on them last year and I hated the road noise and I went back to stock wheels and the BFGs (sold the Coopers)  This setup looked ok but it did rub the front fenderwell material I believe in the front of the passenger side on a tight left hand turn.

I use this size in the winter. Excellent snow/slush traction


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted
On 4/20/2018 at 9:00 PM, Skeld said:

One thing to note, the 275/65R20 BFG KO2's seem extremely narrow in my opinion.  Anyone else notice this?  I have some on +18 20X9 wheels and I'm not crazy about it.

I'm sure they are. BFG's are notorious for running on the narrow, and the 275 is a narrow size anyway...especially for a 34" tall tire. I've always thought 275/70/18 BFG's looked too narrow too. 

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

Anyone understand why a tire size doesn’t really mean the size of the tire? I bought 295/60-20 which should measure a smidge under 34”...yet physically measured 35+ inches and over 12.5” wide.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Skeld Enthusiast

Skeld

Posted
Posted

Coming from the stock 265 I thought it would be ok, guess I was wrong.  Next time I'll try something different.

 

I did use them for one winter and they were good.  This past winter I had Cooper Discovere M+S studded, and that worked fine also.

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted
Coming from the stock 265 I thought it would be ok, guess I was wrong.  Next time I'll try something different.
 
I did use them for one winter and they were good.  This past winter I had Cooper Discovere M+S studded, and that worked fine also.

Well... if you need studded... anything less than chains wont compare


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Skeld Enthusiast

Skeld

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I've gone both ways but I'm up in Maine and I'm plowing with the truck and also hauling snowmobile trailers up on logging roads and things like that.

  • 2 weeks later...
cdh7917 Enthusiast

cdh7917

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I haven't forgotten about this thread, but I'm currently in a holding pattern.  I'll explain...

 

I swapped all four Ranchos out for the Bilstein 5100s.  I am really pleased with the upgrade and overall the truck feels tighter when responding to road imperfections.  We have plenty of that in Colorado, so it's a noticeable improvement.  With less than 6K miles on my truck, the shocks came out very easy.  It was surprising, but almost not, to see that the Ranchos already looked like garbage with rust beginning to form.  I was also surprised at how soft the Ranchos are in comparison.

 

After that, I set about adjusting my keys to bring up the front.  After all is said and done, I am sitting at about 41" front (ground to fender lip) and about 42.5" on the rear (ground to fender lip).  The truck is noticeably higher when getting into it, despite only having been raised 1.5".  Handling is still great, no ill effects.  The rake is just right now too, IMHO.

 

My CV angles look good too.  No contact on the ridges of the boots either.

 

As for wheels and tires - All came in and they were supposed to be mounted last weekend.  Well, it turns out that the gloss finish on the Fuel Warriors wasn't as tough as the name implies.  The lips of the wheels had fine surface scratches all over from the cardboard boxes.  It was disappointing. 

 

We ended up mounting one up and test fitting it on my front.  With the +20 and a 285/65/20, there is very minimal contact with the felt wheel well liner at full lock.  I should have no problem to tie it back and keep it from being an issue.  I easily clear the lower air dam and have plenty of space it looks like between the tire and frame and upper control arm.

 

As for the wheels, I decided to go back to a matte finished wheel and asked that they order the Fuel Couplers.  Same size/specs as the previous deal.

 

Just waiting....again!

cdh7917 Enthusiast

cdh7917

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Finally!  The wheels came in last Friday, but I waited until today to have my good buddy that works at the shop complete the install.  We pulled the stock sensors from my original wheels and moved them to the new ones.  I don't have as much rub as it initially looked like I would.  I'm really happy that I went with the 285/65/20 tires.  They are the perfect size and the +20 wheel puts the wheels/tires are just the right spot - the treads are pretty much flush with the fender edges.

 

Here are the pictures!

 

Before:

CMYCWNF.jpg

 

After:

zKIRhjB.jpg

 

YGHbDAQ.jpg

 

dOdpq9q.jpg

 

xIQLhD0.jpg

 

irooaJJ.jpg

 

MZyEFMk.jpg

 

GKhSMsM.jpg

 

Pbd2r1Y.jpg

 

 

cdh7917 Enthusiast

cdh7917

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, 4wdriver said:

Nice! How are your tires pretty quiet?

Thanks!

 

I love these tires.  I had them in a 295/60/20 on my 1500 and didn't even consider a different tire this time around.  Good road manners, look good, two different shoulder patterns to choose from, do well in snow, etc.  And yes, quiet. 

 

My work commute is about 85 miles round trip, pretty much all highway.  I wouldn't even consider something else at this point. 

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted
On 5/7/2018 at 8:08 PM, cdh7917 said:

Finally!  The wheels came in last Friday, but I waited until today to have my good buddy that works at the shop complete the install.  We pulled the stock sensors from my original wheels and moved them to the new ones.  I don't have as much rub as it initially looked like I would.  I'm really happy that I went with the 285/65/20 tires.  They are the perfect size and the +20 wheel puts the wheels/tires are just the right spot - the treads are pretty much flush with the fender edges.

 

Here are the pictures!

Looks great! Very nice upgrade! I like the 285/65/20 size. It's a nice way to get a 35" tall tire without having to go to a true, 35x12.50x20.

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted
Looks great! Very nice upgrade! I like the 285/65/20 size. It's a nice way to get a 35" tall tire without having to go to a true, 35x12.50x20.

...which is a PITA unless you go high.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OpsWest Enthusiast

OpsWest

Posted
Posted

Looking very sharp.

 

For reference I'm running 35x12.5x18 on stock wheels / no other modifications. I have a slight rub at the very end of full lock, but I tend to avoid the last inch of full lock. It must be the 18' offset or simply everyone avoided trying to mount these on stock 2500 and assume they rub elsewhere.

 

35's

 

after.thumb.jpg.2aa319e79103cf47d3eaa2a8d5e2ef1d.jpg.a7d7715bd9decd095b97c311930adb82.jpg

 

IMG_2157.thumb.jpg.1c3aea18167c576fd1edf6d277bfb915.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_2163.thumb.jpg.31b5912d4d19f9bf0e59a94ca02f46ff.jpg

 

Wheels turned to the point of minimum clearance (9 o'clock to the left / right on steering wheel) still has 1 inch of clearance.

 

IMG_2140.thumb.jpg.27aa8cc6ae68f59a28746070e92000d6.jpg

 

IMG_2137.thumb.jpg.5f4f29fa6b903b8a9c7bc0d949f10fba.jpg

 

Original tires

 

before.thumb.jpg.16047f7942bc0a1a893cfd231f5119cf.jpg.c58abdbbeb6c4d019ea9accfd3904e45.jpg

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...