Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My truck also has an misaligned right rear door. My dealer said they would fix it. I walked the lot and 80% of the new trucks has a misaligned right rear door to some degree. 50% of all trucks had a misaligned that I, as a consumer, would laboe as unacceptable.  I will update after the dealer repairs it. I am thankful the dealer is trying their best. This is a manufacturing problem that they, or me, should be having to deal with.

Posted

I have a 2017 gmc and a 2018 Silverado, my Sierra is perfect and my Chevy is shitty.d6f17e56c4cc43d103d7704ae3cd7960.jpg

 

How the factories works to save time and money is they will let standards slip and go from 4mm to 8mm out if people don’t take their vehicles in and complain.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

8a64b398bad6693973d52e1471943534.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Any resolution to this? Have had my LT Crew for about 2 weeks and noticed the same gap on the right rear door at the bottom. All other doors sit better. Trying to figure out what the dealership would do to make it look flush. 

Posted
1 hour ago, SilveradoGraceland said:

Any resolution to this? Have had my LT Crew for about 2 weeks and noticed the same gap on the right rear door at the bottom. All other doors sit better. Trying to figure out what the dealership would do to make it look flush. 

No perfect resolution. Dealer adjusted the door so it is slightly better but any more adjustment and the door would be too far in at the top. Dealer showed me a bunch of new trucks on their lot that had the same issue so I gave up. Same thing with the tailgate not flush on the side. Almost every truck I looked at had this issue.

Posted
6 minutes ago, SilveradoGraceland said:

Going to go to dealer tomorrow and see what they suggest. 

Keep us updated!

Posted

Went to two dealerships and spoke with their body shops. Both recommended that they can manually twist or bend on door to get it closer. One said it’s pretty common for them to do that. Not sure I’m willing to go that route. May just live with it since they said it won’t effect the interior of the cab (weather, wind, etc)

Posted
36 minutes ago, TNChevyAH18 said:

Went to two dealerships and spoke with their body shops. Both recommended that they can manually twist or bend on door to get it closer. One said it’s pretty common for them to do that. Not sure I’m willing to go that route. May just live with it since they said it won’t effect the interior of the cab (weather, wind, etc)

I wonder what the process consists of and if there are chances of damaging the door. I'd be worried.

Posted

Went to 3rd dealership body shop and they are going to put new bolts in rear door hinges. They said they have done this to several Silverados and Sierras and it makes it noticeably different. They even said they would paint them which is a nice gesture. Thoughts?

  • 4 months later...
Posted

What was the outcome? I’m going through this with my dealer, both rear doors not aligned also bed off to the drivers side.

Posted

I work at a paint and collision shop. Yes, Chevrolet has a lot of alignment issues straight from the factory. Especially with the rear doors at the bottom. If you think these have issues, you should see Ford body alignment issues. They are way worse. Brand new vehicles shouldn’t have these problems. That’s what happens when vehicles are assembled in Mexico. Poor quality control. For the Silverados, fixing that lower rear door requires a lot of twisting in the door. Almost to the point where you could cause damage to paint. When we come across the problem, the truck usually needs repaint in that area so we can really bang and twist on the door to get it almost perfect. My 2016 Silverado has alignment issues all over the place. I just drive it and enjoy the ride. Like the post above says: it’s a truck, not a Lexus. Don’t expect American made vehicles to be perfect. Cause they’re not American Made anymore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Well, mine are good but I have "tweeked" several doors over the years...last one was a 2008 Avalanche. Had some wind noise from the drivers window area...lowered the window, open the door, put your knees on the door and GENTLY give a few tugs to the top of the window frame...test drive and repeat as required but it's worked every time. The trick is to not tug too hard the first few times and do it gradually. No more wind leak sounds. Have no idea how to fix the bottom of the door.

Edited by SS502
Posted
On 11/25/2018 at 11:40 AM, mikedeezxxx said:

Like the post above says: it’s a truck, not a Lexus. Don’t expect American made vehicles to be perfect. Cause they’re not American Made anymore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's ridiculous.  I expected and got perfect panel alignments on my American built Silverado. For over $50k, I wouldn't except anything less.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 4/30/2018 at 6:12 PM, TECH12 said:

I have that same gap on my rear door. The two rear doors do not shut easily. Everytime I close it without thinking about it the door doesn't shut completely. I took it to the dealership and they said that's how it's supposed to be. I'm going to another one 

My friend had this issue on his 2018 Sierra. The cause for him was that he put one of those storage bins that are made to go under the back seat. With the seats down, they pushed on the bin a little which in turn flattened out the GM all weather mats causing the rubber to push out slightly making it a bit harder to shut. I think he ended up trimming the mats.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...