Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
58 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

 

 

Do you know if your engine has direct injection or port injection? If its direct injection, then the install time would be a bit longer, but still - the bill is extremely high. Your right, the dealership charges a lot. I'm glad to hear that you didn't have to pay for it. 

 

 

It is direct injection

Posted
57 minutes ago, cpttimerestraint said:

$1,800 is the going price by the time you get 8 injectors, all the extra seals and gaskets required and the labor to really it all apart.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

But you have r&r injectors twice. Plus diag twice.

Posted

So we picked up the car on Friday.
I was told that the fuel injectors they installed was bad out of the box. All the talk about carbon on cylinders and blah blah blah was just that imo.

They “said” they replaced the 2 injectors they just replaced..... I find that hard to believe but.... we drove the car home and the light didn’t come on or spit or sputter at this point.

Posted
On 7/10/2018 at 2:24 PM, YJSONLY said:

Sooo I stopped by today because I had to get something out of the car. No call just showed up.

Talked to the mechanic myself.... said they have test for leak down test and it all checked out.

Says that it is having a miss but not sending a code for a miss. Only a fuel trim code showing.

Had to dig around. Found that the number 7 plug was gapped/smashed due to carbon build up on top of the cylinder. Said he put new plug in. Ran vehicle and they same code. When pulled new plug was back to close gapping. Said that need top of cylinders needed cleaned of carbon.

Sorry dude but the spark plug gap doesn't get "smashed" from carbon build up. If spark plug gap is truly "smashed" you have a mechanical failure of some sort. I am not buying that explanation.

Posted
Sorry dude but the spark plug gap doesn't get "smashed" from carbon build up. If spark plug gap is truly "smashed" you have a mechanical failure of some sort. I am not buying that explanation.


Like I said I think they screwed up something when installing new injectors. Ie bad seal, o ring or gasket....
Posted

So I really drove it myself today vs my wife. And at idle in park the rpm gauge is not consistent. Varies about a solid needle width. This normal?

 

Posted
I would pull the plug on that particular dealer. I think a fresh set of eyes on the problem is warranted at this point. Maybe another Chevy dealer tech has seen this problem before? 


And more money out of my pocket to boot tooo. Might come down to that tho. This isn’t a small dealer either.
Posted
45 minutes ago, YJSONLY said:

 


And more money out of my pocket to boot tooo. Might come down to that tho. This isn’t a small dealer either.

 

Sometimes the smaller dealers are way better.

Posted
Sometimes the smaller dealers are way better.


Ha. The other small dealer I took it to. Didn’t even have a tech.... yes a Chevy dealer that had zero techs.
Posted
On 7/12/2018 at 10:59 PM, starman8tdc said:

 

 

 

    4.6 hours? WOW! I have never seen any injectors that were not easily accessible. Learn something every day. Any chance you could upload some pics or repair instructions? 

 

    As for the more expensive injectors, I would not go that route - but that's just me. I have had good luck with the cheap injectors on many rigs. 

If you haven't done a direct injection repair yet I suggest you watch some videos on it or take a small class. The pressures of the systems are very high, it's important to bleed off the system before you start working on it (pressures can reach 2,000 psi during operation). The high pressure fuel pump is very expensive, so be careful not to damage it when you remove it. And the injectors are high voltage (if I remember correctly) and they are probably a pain to remove because they are in the cylinder and head...I'm trying to imagine how bad it'd be to remove with over 100,000 miles on them. Yikes.

 

Very few systems use BOTH the direct and port injection together, although that may change with all the carbon issues on the valves, but that is expensive for manufacturers (and they care more about profit than reliability).

 

Honestly I haven't heard about many problems with the actual systems themselves, more with the carbon buildup on valves than anything else. I used to own a direct injected Lexus...178,000 miles and not one single issue. In fact I've seen cars with 300,000 without issue.

 

pretty surprised to hear the GM injectors failing at low mileage....even more surprised it's  not covered under warranty. These systems aren't exactly "new" anymore, every car on the road uses them now.

  • Like 1
Posted
36 minutes ago, Doublebase said:

If you haven't done a direct injection repair yet I suggest you watch some videos on it or take a small class. The pressures of the systems are very high, it's important to bleed off the system before you start working on it (pressures can reach 2,000 psi during operation). The high pressure fuel pump is very expensive, so be careful not to damage it when you remove it. And the injectors are high voltage (if I remember correctly) and they are probably a pain to remove because they are in the cylinder and head...I'm trying to imagine how bad it'd be to remove with over 100,000 miles on them. Yikes.

 

Very few systems use BOTH the direct and port injection together, although that may change with all the carbon issues on the valves, but that is expensive for manufacturers (and they care more about profit than reliability).

 

Honestly I haven't heard about many problems with the actual systems themselves, more with the carbon buildup on valves than anything else. I used to own a direct injected Lexus...178,000 miles and not one single issue. In fact I've seen cars with 300,000 without issue.

 

pretty surprised to hear the GM injectors failing at low mileage....even more surprised it's  not covered under warranty. These systems aren't exactly "new" anymore, every car on the road uses them now.

 

 

   Good info, thanks for posting. 

 

   From what I have read, the direct injections systems are definitely superior to all the predecessors. I have been working on various cars for decades, but I have not had any issues come up with that particular fuel system. 

 

   I will definitely study the system well before taking one apart. 

 

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...