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Posted

I'm 2990 miles away from your zip code. About 45 hours drive time. 

 

I would would definitely avoid the dealer at all costs. If you own a VERY new vehicle, then they know that you have money to spend, and are willing to spend it. 

 

Your best bet would be to take it to local diagnostic shops and ask for free estimates to repair it. If they wont do a free repair estimate, then move on to the next place. You will find one that will check out the vehicle for free, and say YES - we can fix that for X number of dollars. Then say this: So if you work on it and the problem remains, my bill is $0.00, correct?  If they agree to this, then you have found a competent repair shop. If they say you will have to pay regardless of the outcome, then they simply want your money and have no confidence in their diagnostic. 

 

You can pay with cash, or you can pay with time. Time always has better results, and it will save you thousands. 

Posted
Only a small misfire? No SES light?


When I took it in had light on. But slight miss with the 050 code. Now has a fuel trim with light. I only drove it about a half mile. And have if time was calling dealer don’t leave it’s coming back.
Posted
I'm 2990 miles away from your zip code. About 45 hours drive time. 
 
I would would definitely avoid the dealer at all costs. If you own a VERY new vehicle, then they know that you have money to spend, and are willing to spend it. 
 
Your best bet would be to take it to local diagnostic shops and ask for free estimates to repair it. If they wont do a free repair estimate, then move on to the next place. You will find one that will check out the vehicle for free, and say YES - we can fix that for X number of dollars. Then say this: So if you work on it and the problem remains, my bill is $0.00, correct?  If they agree to this, then you have found a competent repair shop. If they say you will have to pay regardless of the outcome, then they simply want your money and have no confidence in their diagnostic. 
 
You can pay with cash, or you can pay with time. Time always has better results, and it will save you thousands. 


Had it not had a warranty or chance of recall of this “we don’t have injector issue” it wouldn’t be at the dealer.....
Posted

You might be able to return to the dealer and speak with the manager. There is always a chance that he will go against company policy and compensate you in some way. Maybe by checking their work for free, or something like that. 

Posted
You might be able to return to the dealer and speak with the manager. There is always a chance that he will go against company policy and compensate you in some way. Maybe by checking their work for free, or something like that. 


O it went back same day within 5 mins. They are swip swapping parts on it now. O2 sensor. Ma flow sensor. And “think that the other 2 fuel injectors are now bad on bank one”. Because they where over working because the other 2 (1-3) was bad.

Ie. They don’t have a clue!!!
Posted

Did they check for coolant leaks per pip5498? I had taken mine to a local mechanic to get the injectors replaced. He scoped the cylinders before replacing them and found coolant. We both called the dealer and I took it over to them. They agreed and replaced the whole driver's side top end under power train.

 

My mechanic told me that the issue with the injectors is etching from the gas and carbon build up. He said that it is common across all makes that use direct injection. If you Google direct injection issues, consumer reports did an article about all car companies having a lot of issues. It also leads to carbon build up on the valves because the gas never passes over them and the techron cleaners never touch them. It is great for EPA testing, but long term causes issues.

 

Also, if you get the BG fuel service done on a regular basis, it includes$2k towards injector failure. I am going to start doing that going forward since my bumper to bumper is done.

 

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Posted

Sooo I stopped by today because I had to get something out of the car. No call just showed up.

Talked to the mechanic myself.... said they have test for leak down test and it all checked out.

Says that it is having a miss but not sending a code for a miss. Only a fuel trim code showing.

Had to dig around. Found that the number 7 plug was gapped/smashed due to carbon build up on top of the cylinder. Said he put new plug in. Ran vehicle and they same code. When pulled new plug was back to close gapping. Said that need top of cylinders needed cleaned of carbon.

Posted

Sorry to hear about your situation. I'm upset just reading this. Taking a low mile Suburban to a certified Chevrolet dealer/mechanic should mean you receive the quality of service that you pay for in a shop like that. Instead, it means they get to misdiagnose the problem and you get to spend money on what they think it is until you're $8k deep. I understand this is new technology and they don't have everything down yet, but they should at least stand behind their product, learn from their mistakes, and make the situation right. But hey, honest/nice guys don't get ahead. Unless we all switch to Ford, of course.

 

If there was enough carbon buildup to smash the gap on a plug I feel like something else is going on. I think I'll be ordering one of those magical catch cans now.

Posted

Not buying the carbon story. Unless it broke loose from somewhere else.

Posted
Sorry to hear about your situation. I'm upset just reading this. Taking a low mile Suburban to a certified Chevrolet dealer/mechanic should mean you receive the quality of service that you pay for in a shop like that. Instead, it means they get to misdiagnose the problem and you get to spend money on what they think it is until you're $8k deep. I understand this is new technology and they don't have everything down yet, but they should at least stand behind their product, learn from their mistakes, and make the situation right. But hey, honest/nice guys don't get ahead. Unless we all switch to Ford, of course.
 
If there was enough carbon buildup to smash the gap on a plug I feel like something else is going on. I think I'll be ordering one of those magical catch cans now.



This is very true. And even the mechanic himself said they have injector issue. But hey this is a used car. I am 2nd owner. And I don’t know why kind of gas was used... [emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849]

Posted (edited)

 

  If there is carbon deposits on your pistons that is smashing the spark plugs, I would either use SeaFoam to steam clean the pistons, or stick something in the spark plug hole to scrape the piston clean, or get a comparable plug that has slightly shorter thread depth. After that, get yourself a catch-can to prevent this from happening again. I just replaced a newer Chevy truck motor, and I was amazed how much oil was in the intake plenum and intake ports in the head. That all turns into carbon the the pistons and head. 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Square-Oil-Catch-Can-Reservoir-Tank-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Lancer-Evo-Dsm/370907880575?hash=item565bd51c7f:g:hvsAAOSwVtZaFcBk:sc:USPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!98292!US!-1

 

 

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Edited by starman8tdc

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