Jump to content

2016 Silverado 1500 Brake upgrades?


Recommended Posts

Posted
4 minutes ago, qwank said:

 

Oh ok, I think those are the rotors that the Silverado SS guys use with the Z06 calipers.  

If so. Let me knowabout your extra calipers. i may be interested

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

If so. Let me knowabout your extra calipers. i may be interested

I will, just gotta find out how to make them work, if not I'll have to sell them to buy the Z06 Calipers.  lol

DSC_0982.thumb.JPG.ccaea36982c9dac2a8d5b089a17d74ef.JPG

Posted
3 hours ago, Nasty said:

I think theyre about an inch bigger maybe 1.5. Uses stock calipers

 

https://baer.com/EradiSpeed-Rotors-GMT900-SUV/

Thanks for pointing those out.  That looks like like one of the most cost effective upgrades (that is actually an upgrade) I've seen.  The larger diameters increase brake torque, provide more swept area, thermal mass and will have better cooling given the larger sizes and directional vanes (much more resistance to fading), stuff you aren't going to get with stock replacement parts.

 

One thing I want to figure out when the 2019's come out--they'll have 4 piston calipers in front stock.  They might eventually be available pretty cheap.  If the bolt pattern/locations happen to be the same they may provide a cheap caliper upgrade for these trucks if we can make them work.

Posted
1 hour ago, qwank said:

I will, just gotta find out how to make them work, if not I'll have to sell them to buy the Z06 Calipers.  lol

DSC_0982.thumb.JPG.ccaea36982c9dac2a8d5b089a17d74ef.JPG

Just front or front and rear?

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Just front or front and rear?

Just fronts,  they are the take off parts from factory 6 piston upgrades 

Posted
3 minutes ago, qwank said:

Just fronts,  they are the take off parts from factory 6 piston upgrades 

Ahh my ocd id need front and rear

Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

Ahh my ocd id need front and rear

I have 3 pairs so it would be nice If I could get them to work on both axles.  

Posted
2 minutes ago, qwank said:

I have 3 pairs so it would be nice If I could get them to work on both axles.  

Keep me in the loop

Posted

I wouldn't even try to use the front calipers on the rear.  They aren't designed for a rotor that thin and the piston sizes are likely way too large--which could result in locking up the rear brakes before the fronts are doing much, increasing stopping distances.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 395 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...