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SOLVED - Suspension Thud - Brand new front end

astolt12

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astolt12 Enthusiast

astolt12

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I recently picked up a 2006 Silverado WT 2wd. I noticed it needed some ball joints pretty much all around. After fighting the rivits on the lower control arm I elected to just buy new components.

 

Installed it all this weekend (lower, upper, tie rod end, stabilzer bars, brakes and shocks). Greased her up and took it for a test drive. Everything good until about 10 miles in we crossed our first speed bump in a parking lot and got the tall tell hallow thump coming from under the car. 

 

I’ve ran into the suspension thud before and it often times was just tightening down the bolts a bit more, especially on top of the shock. So I went through and checked the torque values per the book one more time and they all we’re atleast to spec. I didn’t crank the top bolt down too much more as the rubber bushing would become a flat pankcake. 

 

I was able to find a storm drain and hit that dip a few times, allowing me to recreate the issue like clockwork. Narrowed it down to the passenger side primarily when going above 15 mph. 

 

Its gotta be either the lower or the upper id think. Suggestions? 

astolt12 Enthusiast

astolt12

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99.9% sure.

 

I bought front unloaded calipers from auto zone that came with the shiny new metal clips. Took the old brake pads and just dropped them on the same side as before. 

 

I just went back out and tightened everything again. It’s a little better but still thumps going over speed bumps. Managed to catch a video (don’t mind my dog panting, had to keep the air off to hear it) 

 

its a shallow thud that definitly feels like it’s under my feet. 

0F5A9FA1-2859-4501-AE80-2517F8C92FEB.MOV

astolt12 Enthusiast

astolt12

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Can’t say I’ve ever done the ratchet strap trick. Just get a HD one and run it through the coils after compressing the lower control arm?

 

it might be a stretch to say the shock. The reason I wound up putting new shocks on was due to the clunk existing before. In my diagnosis I went to tighten the bolt and snapped it off...enter two new shocks. 

 

I read a bit today and found some occurrences saying on the sway bar bushings could be the culprit. I had to fight a bit to line the bolts up with the frame holes. But they are tight, flush and most importantly not cross threaded. Any chance that might have to do with something affecting the bar or the stabilizer links? 

greatmizzou Enthusiast

greatmizzou

Posted
Posted

shallow thud under your feet?   I wonder if your engine mount nd or transmission mounts are shot.

 

Thered a few big heavy things that can go thunk when you hit a hard bump.

 

Maybe you are just hitting the bumps too hard ;)

astolt12 Enthusiast

astolt12

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I sure hope not! It was quiet as a mouse before i replaced those components. 

 

One thing I did notice when I was out there banging on the components with a deadblow hammer was that the passenger side coil spring sounded metallic when hit vs the driver side that sounded more stout. If I grabbed the coil and hit there sounded similar. The spring seems to be seated correctly. 

 

Unfortunately it sat on jacks under the front frame rail for about 1.5 weeks while i was waiting on parts. Unless that sonehow caused the deteroation of those mounts! 

Supreme Pizza Senior Enthusiast

Supreme Pizza

Posted
Posted

That's true. The cable I bought was a genuine ACDelco part, but you do have to watch out for Chinese counterfeit parts, especially when you buy online. Amazon generally keeps an eye out for fake knock off parts, but not all retailers do.  I got a batch of counterfeit spark plugs on eBay once. The seller promptly agreed to a full refund and payed the return shipping as well.

 

The counterfeiter spark plugs fall apart and can damage your engine. 

 

 

 

fakengksparkplugs.jpg

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Corrected.jpg

astolt12 Enthusiast

astolt12

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I think I got it....

 

had a hunch it was my sway bar bushing so I took the sway bar off. Wrong, still did it.

 

I opened the hood to take a minute and just check fluids. In that I could see the bushings ontop of the struts. They were not nearly as “pancaked” as they were before. So I tightened them down. 

 

Where my error was I think occurred when I was looking at the bushings with the car on the jack stands and the suspension at it’s full length. So the bushings looked extremely squished/over compressed. But when the truck actually sat on the ground with the tires on there obviously is much less travel in the shocks and the bushings were barely compressed. 

 

So so I put a good 8-10 rotations on each nut and hit the bumps...seemed ok. Fingers crossed. 

 

I guess on my old struts too too I didn’t tighten it down enough either after re installation. Followed the torque specs in the book which hit pretty quick when the strut isn’t compressed with the help of a jack under the lower control arm. Kinda just threw the spec out the window and went based on how squished the bushing was. 

 

Thanks for all the help! 

 

 

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