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Posted

What is everyone doing on 17-18 non Bose stereo systems as far as upgrades? I feel like just changing the factory speakers would make a pretty decent difference but wanted to get some ideas on what everyone is doing? I have 2 sets of Kicker KS 6.5s, and also 2 sets of Kicker QS components, and a Kicker 4 channel amp that I never got around to installing in my 13. Almost have everything I need to do a full system, but haven't done into any new truck systems in years, not sure what LOC I'd need for everything. Ideas and comments please? And these trucks have 6x9 in the front doors, is everyone running aftermarket 6x9s or using adapter plates to go to 6.5s? 

Thanks!

Posted

Mosconi 4to6 or 6to8 depending how you are running the speakers

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I had reservations about my upgrade till i completed it.  I thought of going the easy route and get a LC6 converter and hooking up an amp and changing out all the speakers.  But after pricing it all out the few hundred dollars difference to change out the factory radio was the better option.  I used the Idatalink Maestro kit.  I still have Factory camera. Stearing controles. Vehicle info. Onstar. Sirius. Climate controle on screen. All work. Bonus you get full digital guage cluster on the radio radio now. And android audio brings all google assistant functions through the phone to the truck. 

Negative. In console usb dont connect to radio anymore. And you cant change the theme of the cluster LCD.

 

I have full voice control of Google assistant. I can make phone calls, text, reply to text, open waze, enter navigation, open spotify, amazon music, pandora and Sirius, Just by hitting the steering wheel button and asking. The resolution of the back up camera is better than the factory screen which was something i was curious about. I can add Kenwoods Dash cam which plugs directly into the radio, I have the option of adding a second rearview camera, A front camera, and radar detector. It has a full crossover built in for amp control, And i didnt have to cut a single factory wire in the truck.  The Kenwood really cleaned up the factory speakers.  Im completely ok with leaving them in for now untill after i add subs.  

IMG_20180930_114901.jpg

Posted (edited)

I went a little crazy. Nav-TV makes a perfect high quality adapter to get true optical audio out of the head unit. And it keeps your chimes at the volume where they should be. I have Focal yellow 3 way in front. Focal yellow 2 way in the rear. Single 12 jl audio shallow mount under rear seat. 8 channel 800/8 vxi jl audio running active for the front 6 channels and passive for the rear 2 channels.  Single channel jl 600/1 vxi jl audio for the sub. Also the optical hub so i can hook the laptop up and do easy tuning of the system. Second battery under the hood in factory location. Lots of dynamat. Lots of good 2/0 power and ground cable. This pic is of it right before i finished so it doesnt have to cover on the top and its dirty. I dont know how to get more pics on here or i would.

20180721_194337.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775
  • Like 1
Posted

I have the stock bose, however I just threw in 2 10” jl tw3s in a sealed box pushed by a jx 1000/1, and it hits preety good. Went with a audiocontrol lc2 converter, and a Rockford fosgate cap. The bose sounds great with it, but when it’s time to upgrade them I’m going with focals. Don’t have a great pic, but this is what I took when I got home. 

EB3A0736-9E8C-42B1-9E0C-7A4CA3B1CAE4.jpeg

Posted

A friend of mine has non Bose and he just changed the factory speakers. It sounds really good he did nothing else. Stock head unit did not add any amps.

Posted (edited)

I went pretty simple.  Came out of stock head into Alpine PXE processor, into alpine X-a90v 5 channel amp, changed out all speakers, and added JBL shallow sub.  Nothing to big but sounds good.  Started out with club 4505 amp which is in pic, but wanted a little more out of it.  Everything we added is in the box under back seat.

Racerx, yours must sound pretty good, about the nicest I've seen

stereo.jpg

Edited by gixxerk8
Posted (edited)

Thanks. The pic i posted doesnt have the top cover panel I made. So it kinda looks unfinished. Its about $7k by the time i add up everything. Some people would never even tell the difference and would think its factory. I spent alot of time and money to do it once and do it right. The best thing i did was to dynamat the whole truck. And i mean almost everything except the front firewall. You cant see, but even the outer skin on the doors is completely covered with dynamat. Also did side pillars and roof. So worth it. The truck is so tight and its a dream driving down the road. When the truck is closed up and the A/C is on, you can actually feel the pressure coming out of the outside door handles.  

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20180707_103838.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775
Posted (edited)

Just a pic of when i first started buying stuff. Went with an alpine amp but then jl came out with the 8 channel vxi so i went all jl audio.20180213_171528.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775
  • Like 1
Posted

I take back the "about the nicest I've seen", it is hands down the nicest job I've seen in a Silverado.  I put about $5k into the last one in my tundra and couldn't go past 1/2 volume without getting a headache.  This time was quick and cheap, and sounds good enough for a 53 yr old.

Posted
1 minute ago, gixxerk8 said:

I take back the "about the nicest I've seen", it is hands down the nicest job I've seen in a Silverado.  I put about $5k into the last one in my tundra and couldn't go past 1/2 volume without getting a headache.  This time was quick and cheap, and sounds good enough for a 53 yr old.

Thanks very much. Ive never had a car or truck that i didnt do a large stereo.  This isnt the largest or the loudest stereo that ive built. But it's definitely the absolutely the highest quality as far as sound quality that ive done. In my excursion, i have 10 12" alpines and a 4600 watt pheonix gold amp. Along with a bunch of other stuff.  Thats the loudest. I used to do alot of shows and was consistently in the 158 db range. You could actually see inside the rear 1/4 windows when the flexed. For some reason, it wont let me post a pic of that system. 

Posted

Also have alpine x front components a 1.5 digital farad cap. A alpine 4 channel f345, 2 Optima batteries on insulator. Jl3.5 in dash and rear alpine s. Subs are 10" shallow sun downs. At 500watts each. 318bcad22eb8465479720c8e5ccd6956.jpg98d82608c6903301e4ba4339d8ed2ff8.jpg885c451c8a6516f3bf7fc783248960f8.jpg

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Posted

Lookin good! Ive never been much of a fiberglass/bondo guy on my sub boxes. I think thats due to me wanting to just get it done. Thats why i just do carpet. 

 

Side note---

For all of you guys adding amps with just a cheapo(no disrespect) line out converter, have your chimes gone like crazy loud? The reason i went with the Nav-TV converter was to give me true clean optical output right at the head unit and all chimes stay at factory levels. I have heard that the chimes are amped when you do the line output converter. Just want to justify in my head if it was the right choice to spend $850 on the converter.

Posted
Lookin good! Ive never been much of a fiberglass/bondo guy on my sub boxes. I think thats due to me wanting to just get it done. Thats why i just do carpet. 
 
Side note---
For all of you guys adding amps with just a cheapo(no disrespect) line out converter, have your chimes gone like crazy loud? The reason i went with the Nav-TV converter was to give me true clean optical output right at the head unit and all chimes stay at factory levels. I have heard that the chimes are amped when you do the line output converter. Just want to justify in my head if it was the right choice to spend $850 on the converter.
No on my radio I can adjust the chime volume but my Audiocontrol Lci 2 had no issues. I didnt buy a 6 channel as only the front doors are full range. My bose amp does my dash and the factory sub only.

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