Ground location for amp/subs

[PRiCK]

Seen some posts say to use seat belt bolt. But I saw the carseat anchor bolt and thought it might be a good option. No paint to scrap off. Thoughts?

[B R A D]

Probably as good as anywhere else but I personally wouldn't use a bolt for any sort of safety restraint system, I would just find a bolt on the floor as close as possible.

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[Scribe325]

When I did mine, I used the threaded bolt that secures the jack handle under the rear seat. That might be a decent option depending on your setup.

[PRiCK]

Yeah i was looking at that as an option too. Are you talking about the bolt that holds the jack stand down on passanger side? Or the jack handle on drivers side under rear seat? Both look workable, but i’d have to find the right size nut for the jack handle bolt. The current one is plastic 

[kickass audio]

That ground might be alright but the problem I see is that the bolt looks bigger than the eyelet opening on your ring terminal. You could ream out the terminal to be large enough to accept the anchor bolt but then you will reduce your grounding capability with less contact to the bolt.

 

If you want a great way to test grounding points without having to drill and grind your own hole, get a cheap multimeter and some wire long enough for you to reach the battery under the hood. Cut a strand of wire to reach from inside the cab to the battery. Read the resistance of the wire from one end to the other and write down this number. Next, connect one end of the wire to the negative battery terminal and then connect the other end of the wire to one of the leads on the multimeter. Use the other lead on the multimeter to touch each bolt point you see and write down the resistance reading your meter gives you. Once you have each reading from contacting all of the bolts/nuts in the truck where you want to ground to, subtract that reading from the reading you made when you tested the resistance of just the wire. That will be your resistance you will experience at each ground point. The one closest to 0 is the best ground possible.

[Scribe325]

Yeah i was looking at that as an option too. Are you talking about the bolt that holds the jack stand down on passanger side? Or the jack handle on drivers side under rear seat? Both look workable, but i’d have to find the right size nut for the jack handle bolt. The current one is plastic 

I’m talking about the threaded post that holds the handle for the factory jack. It’s roughly in the center of the cab under the rear seat. The factory “nut” that is there is basically a plastic piece with a threaded metal insert. I basically cleaned the post, bought a normal bolt to attach the ground and then replaced the jack handle and factory nut on top of it. I haven’t had any issues since.

[PRiCK]

Yup. That is the one Im gonna use. The M8 nut screws right on. Thanks for the tip. Is that paint on it that i have to grind down? Or is it ready to attatch? 

[PRiCK]

Scraped it anyway and now its ready to go

[Scribe325]

Scraped it anyway and now its ready to go

I did the same thing. It looked pretty clean but scraping it can’t hurt.

[PRiCK]

7 hours ago, kickass audio said:

That ground might be alright but the problem I see is that the bolt looks bigger than the eyelet opening on your ring terminal. You could ream out the terminal to be large enough to accept the anchor bolt but then you will reduce your grounding capability with less contact to the bolt.

 

If you want a great way to test grounding points without having to drill and grind your own hole, get a cheap multimeter and some wire long enough for you to reach the battery under the hood. Cut a strand of wire to reach from inside the cab to the battery. Read the resistance of the wire from one end to the other and write down this number. Next, connect one end of the wire to the negative battery terminal and then connect the other end of the wire to one of the leads on the multimeter. Use the other lead on the multimeter to touch each bolt point you see and write down the resistance reading your meter gives you. Once you have each reading from contacting all of the bolts/nuts in the truck where you want to ground to, subtract that reading from the reading you made when you tested the resistance of just the wire. That will be your resistance you will experience at each ground point. The one closest to 0 is the best ground possible.

Thank you for that info. I will use it to test my new ground connection.

[Maxsuperdog]

6 hours ago, PRiCK said:

Scraped it anyway and now its ready to go

Be careful using that. If you over tighten it it will snap off. Ask me how I know!!