Jump to content

Need help with lean code p0171


Recommended Posts

Posted

05 Tahoe 5.3 LM7 has constant code P0171 and p0300. Scan tool data shows misfire on all cylinders in bank 1. Cylinder 1 is the worst. Constant misfire almost as if cylinder dead. Check engine light flashing. Exhaust doesn't smell right. Any help would be appreciated! Have a bunch of other codes but want to get to bottoms of this one. Will upload media shortly

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

   The first step in the diagnostic procedure, would be to find a common link between these codes, especially if they all happened at once. You would want to read through the links below, and try to find a common possible cause. If most of the codes share a possible cause of "plugged fuel filter", then that would be a good place to start. If you cant find a common possible cause, then you would want to start at the top of the ladder, and work your way down - meaning that you need to prioritize the issues. Your O2 sensor codes could be a symptom of another problem, or they could be the cause of a problem. Try to fix the things that are not a possible symptom first. If you replace the O2's, and the codes were actually a symptom of another issue, then you accomplished nothing. Also, don't be afraid to clear the codes, and see which ones come back. Many times, some of the codes don't return, either because the code was a fluke, or because the computer reverted to factory defaults and stopped looking for signals from that sensor after detecting an unexpected value, and if its not looking at the sensor readings, the computer will never automatically test that sensor again until the codes are cleared. 

 

https://www.autocodes.com/p0300_chevrolet.html

 

https://www.autocodes.com/p1133_chevrolet.html

 

https://www.autocodes.com/p0171_chevrolet.html

 

https://www.engine-codes.com/p1626_chevrolet.html

 

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2003-chevrolet-impala-code-u1064

 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0131

Posted

Thank you for info. I believe the two oxygen sensors and misfire code are result of p0171. I think there is intake leak somewhere but need to smog test to confirm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

You can find intake leaks using starting fluid. Make sure the engine is cold, and then start the motor. Spray the starting fluid around all the gaskets on the intake manifold, vacuum hoses, intake tube etc. If the engine revs up, you have a leak. You can also find it using a smoker. 

 

Yes, yes, I know - people will say DON'T USE STARTING FLUID!

 

The people that say NOT to use starting fluid that way are 100% correct (according to the instructions on the can). 

 

People that DO use starting fluid that way have been doing it for years without any problem. 

 

 

Obviously you should have a fire extinguisher handy, only do it on a cold engine, and don't SOAK the engine. Just use light little puffs of starting fluid. If anything starts to get wet, wait a minute for it to evaporate before you continue. Only do this outside, never in a garage. 

 

 

Posted

If your going after P0171, I would not start with a vacuum leak unless it has a high/wandering idle. 

 

I would start here: 

 

Check/clean the PCV valve and tube

Clean the Mass air flow sensor 

Add some strong fuel injector cleaner 

Check fuel pressure

 

 

Those are quick easy things to check, and just generally good maintenance items to do anyway.  

 

Then I would move on to other stuff. I just like starting with the easiest quickest thing first. Sometimes it pays off. 

 

Posted

Curious about the white exhaust,any progress?one thing to do would be swap front 02's,see if code stays with the bank or swaps with it

Posted

Or how about the screwdriver to ear test, other end on injector,listen for clicking, check them all to learn the proper sound

Posted

Problem was faulty B1 S1 oxygen sensor

Replaced with OEM Denso sensor

Cleared codes, no issues with engine, no misfires, exhaust smell and smoke went away

Thanks to all who left responses!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...