Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The answer is No.

2019 T1 Gm trucks have a completely new air intake setup that comes thru the top of the grille and to the drivers side for intake.

The intake picture you posted is for the previous gen K2.

Posted

To the OP, unless you live in central America, there is plenty of cold air to go around right now, I belong to other forums and the most popular topic is where is my block heater plug, lol. With a new p/u with a new intake system, I would bide my time, let someone else be the guinea pig to see if a CAI is worth it on this new generation.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/28/2019 at 2:13 PM, Sierra Dan said:

Yeah, I found that one, but with only 13% more airflow, its not worth the cost, considering the K&N for previous year is only $280.  I will wait for K&N or AFE to produce something.  At least I hope they will!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

K&n has their 2019 Silverado intake up for pre order on their site. A rep told me they should ship out soon since production has started. 

  • Like 2
Posted
11 hours ago, DanHc said:

K&n has their 2019 Silverado intake up for pre order on their site. A rep told me they should ship out soon since production has started. 

That’s great news, good find!  Now I’m curious if we have to tune the engine after installation?  I know some others said that might be necessary.. but i didn’t see that in the instructions.

Posted
6 minutes ago, Trailboss75 said:

That’s great news, good find!  Now I’m curious if we have to tune the engine after installation?  I know some others said that might be necessary.. but i didn’t see that in the instructions.

I was one of those checking every other day on their site to see when it would be available lol and that I know of you don’t have to tune it the computer will eventually adapt to the extra airflow and change what needs to be changed. The GM intake comes with the “tune” so the computer won’t have to do it itself. (Don’t quote me on this information it’s just something I got told) 

Posted
4 minutes ago, DanHc said:

I was one of those checking every other day on their site to see when it would be available lol and that I know of you don’t have to tune it the computer will eventually adapt to the extra airflow and change what needs to be changed. The GM intake comes with the “tune” so the computer won’t have to do it itself. (Don’t quote me on this information it’s just something I got told) 

On the 6.2 per the webpage above, it says it increases 17% airflow, I wouldn't imagine that there is that much adjustability in the ECU perimeters for that difference. Which is why they have a calibration for the intake. 

Posted

It's a bit expensive for plastic and a rubber hose connected to the throttle body...

  • Like 1
Posted

New Era Performance released theirs.  Expensive at $400+, but 16hp/21tq on the 5.3 seems fairly good.  

 

Im was gonna wait and see what else came out but the plan is to dyno before and after the intake for my 6.2

Posted
48 minutes ago, MadCaddie said:

New Era Performance released theirs.  Expensive at $400+, but 16hp/21tq on the 5.3 seems fairly good.  

 

Im was gonna wait and see what else came out but the plan is to dyno before and after the intake for my 6.2

K&N saying theirs makes 15.7hp/32.5tq on the 6.2

Posted
14 minutes ago, DanHc said:

K&N saying theirs makes 15.7hp/32.5tq on the 6.2

I wonder what this fine print means:

 

“Horsepower gains based on similar vehicle dynamometer test. Results will vary.”

 

Those numbers seem pretty sensational and don’t really mesh when you consider the numbers gained from the AT4 off road performance package, which includes both the GM performance exhaust and the GM intake.

 

“Thanks to these additions, the AT4 Off-Road Package delivers 435 horsepower and 469 lb-ft of torque - increases of 15 horsepower and 9 lb-ft of torque over a Sierra equipped with a conventional 6.2L.”

 

The GM exhaust from that truck is listed in the accessories store as being good for +13hp and +8tq by itself. Simple math would then indicate that the GM intake is then only good for +2hp and +1tq. That would explain why GM doesn’t directly publish the gains from the intake apart from a % airflow increase...pretty sad.

 

So, either the GM CAI is terrible, the K&N is really great, or someone is lying???

 

Curious what everyone makes of this because I am definitely in the market. That said, I’m not in love with using a K&N oiled filter and destroying my MAF sensor...

 

 

Posted

63-3109_dyno.pdf

Found the dyno sheet for the K&N. Pretty impressive. Guess I got some thinking to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,237 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...