TO REGEAR or NOT TO REGEAR

[Thumper7]

I'm near Palestine but I don't mind going to DFW, Houston, SA, Austin or pretty much anywhere for a shop that really knows what they're doing.  I used to wrench for a living in the late 70's and early 80's and I know someone has to know what they're doing when changing out gears.  

[1SLOW1500]

I should have said faster response, but yeah I follow. I've already had a tune, just looking for more power around town myself, but didn't want to kill the highway MPG. Thanks for the info.

Well then for you. It is all in trans tuning or the basic mods that are cheap if your not power adder. Then if you want more and not a power adder then stall. It will throw. The truck right to the power band. And out of the low bs.
So stall and trans. If e85 and no force induction then there is large power there also. I would. So intake, tb, headers, exhaust,Cai, breather and catch can, then stall with a tune. Meth is another great power adder possibly the best. But requires a good tuner and a customer that knows what to do.

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[1SLOW1500]

 So 4:11 would be your recommended gear size if I was running 37’s? (a future endeavor)..  my knowledge of gear ratios is borderline nonexistent and I’ve read plenty of topics you have chimed in on along with your own build thread and you seem very knowledgeable on drivetrain. I do some towing but lots of highway and surface street driving.

Not that simple. 6 or 8 speed. And what mods? Then what is the type of driving you do and any towing? I spent 8 months changing my trans tune. I know for my power level have it what I can tell by the sound if it is set to shift. I can then light push the pedal one or two times and it drops 1 or 2 gears. Think manual based on foot pedal. I also know everyone in the truck with not be happy if my throttle position isnt right on the 1-2shift but if Im wot is is fast and smooth as silk. But again the stall would flash 3000rpms and be in boost anyways. Where a stock truck has to down shift 1 or 2 times and then starts at 1xxhp and works its way up.
A million ways to tune it. I would guess 4:11 is way high for you. But also need tire diameter to calculate final ratio.
As said tune trans, dyno power curve and stall to match. Gear is a last minute fix to get a best combo. Important but not a starting point.

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[Farmerman1379]

2 hours ago, CovetedStyle said:

 I did not my friend I was doing my tail lights at the time, my buddy Frank he did the headlights  and they came apart reasonably easily but I remember him saying I hate permaseal like 100 times while he was cleaning it all out of the channels because that stuff does not want to come off and you have to get every little piece of it off so that when you re-seal the headlights it makes a perfectly even seal so you never get moisture inside of them.

I love the look of the clear turn signals and sidemarkers, but I don't know if I feel like opening it up and resealing it. The way you make that permaseal sound is like the gasket on the heads of my dad's 01 Duramax when we did headgaskets on it. It was a PITA to get it perfectly cleaned out of a small groove that ran the perimeter of the heads.

[CovetedStyle]

4 minutes ago, Farmerman1379 said:

I love the look of the clear turn signals and sidemarkers, but I don't know if I feel like opening it up and resealing it. The way you make that permaseal sound is like the gasket on the heads of my dad's 01 Duramax when we did headgaskets on it. It was a PITA to get it perfectly cleaned out of a small groove that ran the perimeter of the heads.

Definitely a PITA but you do what you gotta do for the look you want. Nothing that really stands out is ever easy in my experience.  I’m not sure if you are active on Instagram but there are a bunch of different users/shops on there that will do the mod for you if you send them your lights I think it ranges from about $800-1000.

[Farmerman1379]

2 minutes ago, CovetedStyle said:

Definitely a PITA but you do what you gotta do for the look you want. Nothing that really stands out is ever easy in my experience.

That's true, it sucked making brackets for light bars to fit behind the grille and in front of the radiator fins on my '18. About 1/16 inch of clearance and they're symmetrically positioned.

[Jacoby]

1 hour ago, Thumper7 said:

I'm near Palestine but I don't mind going to DFW, Houston, SA, Austin or pretty much anywhere for a shop that really knows what they're doing.  I used to wrench for a living in the late 70's and early 80's and I know someone has to know what they're doing when changing out gears.  

If you got a 4 Wheel Parts near you they can do it but they've been the most expensive quote Ive received so far at $2850.  Dallas Offroad quoted me $2250 (theyre who Im going with) and Dallas Differential quoted me $1850.  I chose Dallas Offroad because theyre a dedicated off road shop and they specialize in gear swaps plus they provide lifetime warranty and are familiar with my tuner. 

1 hour ago, CovetedStyle said:

 So 4:11 would be your recommended gear size if I was running 37’s? (a future endeavor)..  my knowledge of gear ratios is borderline nonexistent and I’ve read plenty of topics you have chimed in on along with your own build thread and you seem very knowledgeable on drivetrain. I do some towing but lots of highway and surface street driving.

8" lift on 37's

 

I'd go 4.56 or higher

[Thumper7]

Jacob, thank you for the suggestions. I will check them out.

[Penguin VII]

1 hour ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Well then for you. It is all in trans tuning or the basic mods that are cheap if your not power adder. Then if you want more and not a power adder then stall. It will throw. The truck right to the power band. And out of the low bs.
So stall and trans. If e85 and no force induction then there is large power there also. I would. So intake, tb, headers, exhaust,Cai, breather and catch can, then stall with a tune. Meth is another great power adder possibly the best. But requires a good tuner and a customer that knows what to do.

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I've got tune, CAI, exhaust, looking into headers. I don't want to use e85 as it's hard to get around me and I like being able to throw in premium and go. I may look into a blower in the future, but honestly I'm unsure about reliability on it. I should have just gone with the 6.2 or a 2500 since I wanted to roll large tires like a child. Still leagues more comfortable and faster than my old wrangler though.

I think my next steps are gears, headers and blower (maybe), in that order. I'm only going to go blower if I don't daily it anymore.

[1SLOW1500]

I've got tune, CAI, exhaust, looking into headers. I don't want to use e85 as it's hard to get around me and I like being able to throw in premium and go. I may look into a blower in the future, but honestly I'm unsure about reliability on it. I should have just gone with the 6.2 or a 2500 since I wanted to roll large tires like a child. Still leagues more comfortable and faster than my old wrangler though.

I think my next steps are gears, headers and blower (maybe), in that order. I'm only going to go blower if I don't daily it anymore.

You don't need headers if you just go. Turbo. It makes more power and is a little more friendly on mpg and drivability. Also cheaper.

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[Penguin VII]

2 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

You don't need headers if you just go. Turbo. It makes more power and is a little more friendly on mpg and drivability. Also cheaper.

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My buddy was trying to sell me on a procharger. I frankly just can't stand the sound and the lag kills me. Frankly I'd rather not have the power than have the lag.

[1SLOW1500]

My buddy was trying to sell me on a procharger. I frankly just can't stand the sound and the lag kills me. Frankly I'd rather not have the power than have the lag.

I had a procharger, turbos, nitrous, all motor, back to twin turbos, then single turbo.
I have the largest turbo the kit can mount and I only hear the BOV after a hard hit. Lag is around 3000rpms but again stall fixes all that. And a little lag is nice to drive easy and stay out of boost. I get 20mpg on the highway. Not bad for 600hp crew cab on 24"x10" wheels. Two buddy's did the magna chargers. One sold whole truck other parted it out.

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[Lstarr87]

4 hours ago, CovetedStyle said:

Again thank you, it’s a transparent powder coat called HD Teal over a micro flake base coat. Looks pretty cool when it gets some sun on it in my opinion.

damn brother that is a hell of a way to do it.  Ive never seen anyone do it like that.  Great looking tho and something ill end up doing to mine!  Thanks for costing me more money LOL

[Jacoby]

Magnacharger FTW. 

[Penguin VII]

13 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I had a procharger, turbos, nitrous, all motor, back to twin turbos, then single turbo.
I have the largest turbo the kit can mount and I only hear the BOV after a hard hit. Lag is around 3000rpms but again stall fixes all that. And a little lag is nice to drive easy and stay out of boost. I get 20mpg on the highway. Not bad for 600hp crew cab on 24"x10" wheels. Two buddy's did the magna chargers. One sold whole truck other parted it out.

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Not sure what a stall is? What size tires you running and lifted?

Still gonna be a long while before I do that but I'm still leaning blower at the moment. At the point that I put a blower in it then it no longer is a commuter/single vehicle but rather a fun/weekend rig and the MPG is all but worthless.

Now if only they made larger gas tanks…