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Sharp1 Enthusiast

Sharp1

Posted
Posted

Gmpartsstore.com  They had a 5 percent off code on the website.  Was the cheapest I could find.  Plus got credit for the purchase in the GM rewards program.  

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Wakezilla
Wakezilla

Ok, I finally got my system installed. I have a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab with Bose.  It hits hard and deep and clean.  I did not want to fork out the $1500 for the JL Stealthbox with 2 of their thin 12

hardloaf
hardloaf

I've uploaded video to youtube - I think this works better than pictures. GM Sub, installed

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

I had my own made...fits right inside the factory box under seat.  Just factory BOSE with a little extra 12in kick in the back.     

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PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
As in adding a sub amp to add a different sub or a amp for the door/dash speakers? 
 
If your looking for a way to add a sub amp it would work pretty much the exact way the GM system does. Power, ground, and tap the same wires for a signal. Alot of guys run the signal through an Audio Control Lc2i before the amp. I am on the fence between the GM kicker system and just adding a component sub using an Audio Control ACM 1.300 amp which is a 300x1 amp with the Lc2i built in. 
 
If your looking for a way to amp the highs it's going to get alot more complicated if you start off with the Bose system. At that point I would suggest some sort of signal summing to the amps input then you could probably go from the amp to the wires you disconnect from the bose amp to save the trouble of running wires all over through the truck. 



I have run many many many sub setups... from $1000 to $4000...

Yes that’s the way to do it with lc2i...


However.. for $500... and the CRITICAL kicker bass knob... this setup is legit...

I was about to drop $3500 on the stealth box with 2 w6s... JL slash v3 1000.... all the stuff....

Figured for $500 what do I have to lose... I’m very impressed with the little kicker sub.


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truck_newbie Enthusiast

truck_newbie

Posted
Posted
16 minutes ago, PabloK said:

 

 


I have run many many many sub setups... from $1000 to $4000...

Yes that’s the way to do it with lc2i...


However.. for $500... and the CRITICAL kicker bass knob... this setup is legit...

I was about to drop $3500 on the stealth box with 2 w6s... JL slash v3 1000.... all the stuff....

Figured for $500 what do I have to lose... I’m very impressed with the little kicker sub.


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Just purchased kicker sub kit with the knob. I'm seeing conflicting reports of easy to install and not easy to install. How was the install on yours?

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PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
Just purchased kicker sub kit with the knob. I'm seeing conflicting reports of easy to install and not easy to install. How was the install on yours?


It took me 2 hours and I’m a jack of all trades, master of none.

For the faint of heart, take it to an audio shop.. not the dealer.

Don’t pay more than $250 in labor.


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PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
Just purchased kicker sub kit with the knob. I'm seeing conflicting reports of easy to install and not easy to install. How was the install on yours?


Also..

Do not open the amp and mess with the switches. It’s set, from the factory, for our trucks.

The sub without the bass knob is average. The addition of the bass knob gives you full control of gain and dramatically improves every aspect.

I can’t stress enough how much improved the system. 202c26ae2d10d51d21e800e9695a82ac.jpg


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  • Like 2
truck_newbie Enthusiast

truck_newbie

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, PabloK said:

 


It took me 2 hours and I’m a jack of all trades, master of none.

For the faint of heart, take it to an audio shop.. not the dealer.

Don’t pay more than $250 in labor.


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Cool, thanks. Dealer quoted me $150 but they did mention they hadn't installed one yet so they weren't sure. The price is reasonable but i'm not exactly relishing the idea of being their install guinea pig. 

 

Funny you should mention the dip switches. I will leave everything as default and see how it sounds first before messing with them. 

 

I think i will try the install myself. I installed a dashcam recently and that took longer than expected because for the life of me, i couldn't remove the passenger side lower kick-panel to access the ground connection. I ended up having to use a different ground connection close to the fuse cover. Did you have any issues removing the lower kick-panel and is there a better procedure to remove it?

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PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
Cool, thanks. Dealer quoted me $150 but they did mention they hadn't installed one yet so they weren't sure. The price is reasonable but i'm not exactly relishing the idea of being their install guinea pig. 
 
Funny you should mention the dip switches. I will leave everything as default and see how it sounds first before messing with them. 
 
I think i will try the install myself. I installed a dashcam recently and that took longer than expected because for the life of me, i couldn't remove the passenger side lower kick-panel to access the ground connection. I ended up having to use a different ground connection close to the fuse cover. Did you have any issues removing the lower kick-panel and is there a better procedure to remove it?



The class d amp used by kicker is used for many applications. The switches are inputs for different applications. People messing with them are simply dialing in the dsp for a different vehicle.....

Panels just came off with force.. plastic trim removal tool

$150 is a good price, but not a chance I’m letting my truck be 1st attempt for dealer random tech.

The only time I go to the dealer is for warranty work.


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truck_newbie Enthusiast

truck_newbie

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, PabloK said:

 

 


The class d amp used by kicker is used for many applications. The switches are inputs for different applications. People messing with them are simply dialing in the dsp for a different vehicle.....

Panels just came off with force.. plastic trim removal tool

$150 is a good price, but not a chance I’m letting my truck be 1st attempt for dealer random tech.

The only time I go to the dealer is for warranty work.


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Thanks for the tips, very helpful. I still have my rewards points so it will only have been $50 out of pocket but i don't want to be their install guinea pig so i'll try to do it myself. 

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PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the tips, very helpful. I still have my rewards points so it will only have been $50 out of pocket but i don't want to be their install guinea pig so i'll try to do it myself. 

 

Good plan

 

Your saving money, learning about your truck which will help down the road...

 

Take your time and do a perfect install l.. put the bass knob where you want it...

 

End of the day, for like $500, you have a pretty damn nice upgrade.

 

 

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truck_newbie Enthusiast

truck_newbie

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, PabloK said:

 


Good plan

Your saving money, learning about your truck which will help down the road...

Take your time and do a perfect install l.. put the bass knob where you want it...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I plan to place the knob lower in the center console. I remember seeing a picture of someone with it that way and it looked good and fairly unobtrusive. 

PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
I plan to place the knob lower in the center console. I remember seeing a picture of someone with it that way and it looked good and fairly unobtrusive. 


Yup that will look good

Mines loose right now... but i think I’ll dremel out a hole on the fuse panel 2 inches left of elec parking brake button.. that way it will be flushbab472657cf0b510dd3e69c7d1d4907d.jpg


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Mountain boy Enthusiast

Mountain boy

Posted
Posted (edited)

The switches are nothing to be afraid of, I have read lots of posts no to people have gotten the switches set the same way. Mine came in all up except 6, 5 and 6 are just the crossover point, 5 up 6 down will put more midrange through the sub by using a higher crossover point. 1, 2, 3 are output levels all up is the highest output level. 4 needs to be up or it won’t work. This amp is used in lots of applications it is not set for our trucks, the enclosure is designed for our trucks. If you don’t like the sound of the sub adjust the switches, you can always put them back just write it down.

When you buy the sub they don’t know if you have the Bose or non Bose It works with both, the switch settings are different.

 

The install is pretty straight forward but you will have to get the kick panel off, took me about an hour. 

Edited by Mountain boy
PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
The switches are nothing to be afraid of, I have read lots of posts no to people have gotten the switches set the same way. Mine came in all up except 6, 5 and 6 are just the crossover point, 5 up 6 down will put more midrange through the sub by using a higher crossover point. 1, 2, 3 are output levels all up is the highest output level. 4 needs to be up or it won’t work. This amp is used in lots of applications it is not set for our trucks, the enclosure is designed for our trucks. If you don’t like the sound of the sub adjust the switches, you can always put them back just write it down.

When you buy the sub they don’t know if you have the Bose or non Bose It works with both, the switch settings are different.

 

The install is pretty straight forward but you will have to get the kick panel off, took me about an hour. 

 

The amp has built in dsp which has been “tuned” to the acoustic environment of our trucks, it is vehicle specific in that regards, the switches are set from the factory to align with that sound file built into the amp. There are different wiring procedures for Bose vs non-Bose.

 

The bass dial is needed to properly control the gain, kicker was not able to package the bass knob with this package due to manufacturing constraints.

 

Adjusting the switches out of spec to the dsp file will just over or under-power the subwoofer. It also voids the warranty.

 

This is straight from a kicker engineer that works in their VSS department (vehicle specific solutions).

 

 

 

 

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Sharp1 Enthusiast

Sharp1

Posted
Posted

I don’t know if you do this with just the part numbers that come with sub only. Buy mine you can control the whole system through the Kicker FlexTune app from your phone or tablet.  Finally got mine tuned with switches and app to where it sounds really good.  The app wirelessly connects to the DSP amp and controls an EQ with bandwidth sets,  bass level and center position.  

  • Like 1
PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted
I don’t know if you do this with just the part numbers that come with sub only. Buy mine you can control the whole system through the Kicker FlexTune app from your phone or tablet.  Finally got mine tuned with switches and app to where it sounds really good.  The app wirelessly connects to the DSP amp and controls an EQ with bandwidth sets,  bass level and center position.  


Are you running iOS 12 or 13?

Not working with my iPhone Max

Can’t even download it...

Will try an old iPad I have..

b2b4d89d334c9d9dc92a610207031eac.jpg


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