Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
16 hours ago, Jackwards said:

Please, feel free to flame me. It’s late and I’m calling it a night because I’m sure I’m missing something simple.  

 

Started installing the Kicker subwoofer it from GM tonight.  

 

Ran the harness tonight, connected (without fully installing the box), connected and had sound.  Disconnected and put the box away for the night.  

 

 Two questions:

 

1) ended up with a check engine light (P25A2- engine electrical / chagring system & C0580 - Traction control error) after everything was run.  OnStar says there’s a charging system issue.  Anyone else encounter this?

 

2) Rear door speakers have nearly zero sound. Extremely low volume, and extremely light sound (zero bass, almost all highs).  Fronts sound fantastic. 

 

Sorry and thanks in advance for the help everyone. 

You should check your battery connection at least in 2 places...

1.  Did you re-seat the negative battery correctly and tighten it

2.  Did you wire the Pos line to the right fuse set?  See My Pic.

 

Third thing is did you splice into the correct wires on the passenger side or damage one while removing the insulation?

 

IMG_0486.jpg

Posted (edited)

IMG_0482.jpg.d07cdc358cbe4f0e563b0edeb1574207.jpg

20 hours ago, Jackwards said:

Great info.  Thanks!  Can you post a photo of where/how you mounted the knob?  Thanks!

IMG_0482.jpg.d07cdc358cbe4f0e563b0edeb1574207.jpg

 

3M Double sided tape, line runs under the center through riverside and to the rear.

Edited by quicksilverc5
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, GMC-AT said:

pic

20190516_111701.jpg

Looks nice.  I modified my storage to fill in the rest of the space.

 

 

IMG_0485.jpg

IMG_0483.jpg

Edited by quicksilverc5
  • Like 1
Posted

I'm looking for a sub tap or high level speaker tap to add a sub amp to a non-Bose system.

The kicker instructions mention the brown and brown/blue wires at the audio control module.

Does anyone know if this is a low level sub output or a speaker tap?

Thanks in advance.

Posted
16 hours ago, quicksilverc5 said:

Looks nice.  I modified my storage to fill in the rest of the space.

 

 

IMG_0485.jpg

IMG_0483.jpg

Looks great, I like the storage mod -

Posted
18 hours ago, quicksilverc5 said:

IMG_0482.jpg.d07cdc358cbe4f0e563b0edeb1574207.jpg

IMG_0482.jpg.d07cdc358cbe4f0e563b0edeb1574207.jpg

 

3M Double sided tape, line runs under the center through riverside and to the rear.

Did you have to remove any of the console to get the wire in there?

Posted
20 hours ago, cccjrsbox said:

Did you have to remove any of the console to get the wire in there?

No, I used a metal coat hanger from the rear to pull the wire through.  You can pull the charger pad off for more room.

Posted
On 2019-05-16 at 8:22 AM, GMC-AT said:

pic

20190516_111701.jpg

Can you confirm how you tied into Bose system for signal to your amp? Sorry if you already explained. I ordered LC2i module and thinking to get signal from front door speaker wires in wire harness by passenger side front?

Posted
Can you confirm how you tied into Bose system for signal to your amp? Sorry if you already explained. I ordered LC2i module and thinking to get signal from front door speaker wires in wire harness by passenger side front?

If it’s the same as the 14 to 18’s driver side kick panel you tap off the rear driver door speaker wires. That’s how I did it when I installed my Kicker sub. I have Bose but it don’t matter Bose or not. There braided wires just cut back the harness tape and T tap them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

JL Audio makes a Stealthbox with 2 subwoofers, not cheap, but looks really nice and sounds amazing.  I ordered one, should be here next week or the week after.

 

  Jerry

  • Like 2
Posted

Had mine installed today, wasn't very smooth.  Went to the dealer where I purchased the truck and subwoofer - they have an off-site customization center affiliated with the dealership.  Quoted 1 hour.  Took them 4 hours, and they wanted me to pay for the extra 3 hours.  I refused and they finally relented, kudos to them for doing the right thing.  

 

Driving away, I noticed none of the HVAC or seat heat controls were operable.  Turned around and went back 5 mins later, sat around for another hour, until they asked if I had messed with any of the trucks wiring.  When I said no, they then wanted to send me to the dealership next week for diagnostics.

 

I quickly Googled the issue and recommended they disconnect and reconnect the battery.  That did the trick.

 

Sounds good, glad I had the remote installed too.  For anyone else going the dealer route, might want to make sure they have done one before, and definitely don't commit to a time and materials approach.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Installed mine last weekend. Pretty easy overall, took couple hours. Till trying to figure out the switches on the amp. Its very loud in the car. From outside not so much.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Bikeman said:

Installed mine last weekend. Pretty easy overall, took couple hours. Till trying to figure out the switches on the amp. Its very loud in the car. From outside not so much.

I played around with them and ended up with 1,2,3,4,5 in the up position, 6 down.  It's pretty loud, but with the control knob you can dial it back. 

 

The best crossover point seemed to be 1up, 2down, 3up (4up,5up,6 down), but the volume was too low.  One of these days I'll figure out the sweet spot!

 

Talked to Kicker, 1,2,3 = Gain Settings, 4 = 12volt or DC (leave it up for 12v), 5,6 = Slope  (5up and 6down = 12db), not sure what 24db would be.

Edited by cccjrsbox
updated settings
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,428 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...