Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Has anyone else heard a loud clunk ( occasionally) when decelerating? It happens right before I come to a complete stop. I believe it happens when the transmission goes into first gear

Edited by Aycock1987
Posted
45 minutes ago, Aycock1987 said:

Has anyone else heard a loud clunk ( occasionally) when decelerating? It happens right before I come to a complete stop. I believe it happens when the transmission goes into first gear

Would guess the number of people that have heard their transmission "clunking" would be in the thousands. 

Posted (edited)
24 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

Would guess the number of people that have heard their transmission "clunking" would be in the thousands. 

It has never done this until this week. I have about 4K miles on It

Edited by Aycock1987
Posted

I also have a loud popping or clicking noise when the truck goes into first gear right before a stoplight.  It doesn't do it all the time, but it has happened about once a week for a while now.  Truck is at 6000 miles.  I can hear it very well when I drive in the neighborhood with the windows down.

  • 8 months later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

I just had this happen to me. This is after I towed a 4300 lb vehicle on a u-haul auto transport for about 120 miles. I dropped off the trailer, drove home, and  it happened to me while decelerating to a stop; shift from 2 to 1 gear. I was able to reproduce it several times after that. I scheduled a service appointment to see a master tech. Any idea what is causing it?

Posted
1 hour ago, especter said:

I just had this happen to me. This is after I towed a 4300 lb vehicle on a u-haul auto transport for about 120 miles. I dropped off the trailer, drove home, and  it happened to me while decelerating to a stop; shift from 2 to 1 gear. I was able to reproduce it several times after that. I scheduled a service appointment to see a master tech. Any idea what is causing it?

Going to be told "operating as designed."  

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just had the dealership perform the transmission service on my 2019 Sierra 1500 5.3L 8-speed. Service was performed on Tuesday. 

 

Parts included: BG 6600 Transmission Flush kit ($47, includes 106BG & 310BG), Filter (GM Part No. 24274402), and Fluid (GM Part No. 88865601)

 

Issues thus far:

 

Last night I noticed an oil spot in my driveway, put some cardboard under the transmission pan, and drove it to the dealership this morning. They confirmed the pan was "seeping" and blamed it on a defective gasket. 

 

Looking at the parts list, they used the AC delco ATF. Should they be using the Mobile 1 Synthetic LV fluid per the 18-NA-355 bulletin??

 

Any help would be appreciated, because I'm about to blow my gasket..........

@bshort

Posted
17 hours ago, especter said:

 

 

Any help would be appreciated, because I'm about to blow my gasket..........

@bshort

You already did...on the transmission.  ?  One of the reasons that I try to avoid the dealer at all costs....they tend to be somewhat clueless and always seem to F something up.  Sometimes you have to write things out in crayon for the service writer.  Have them use the correct ATF when they change that pan gasket out.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, bshort said:

You already did...on the transmission.  ?  One of the reasons that I try to avoid the dealer at all costs....they tend to be somewhat clueless and always seem to F something up.  Sometimes you have to write things out in crayon for the service writer.  Have them use the correct ATF when they change that pan gasket out.  

Oh man, the service writer is completely clueless. I printed, highlight, and showed him all of the relevant GM service bulletins & he completely disregarded them. One bulletin identified that GM does NOT recommend aftermarket additives and fluid flushes for normal service. The other being the procedure for the fluid exchange procedure using the ATF machine w/ 20 quarts of the Mobile Synthetic ATF HP fluid. 

 

Eventually, after not being able to deal with me any longer he called over the shop foreman  & we had an in depth conversation about the 8 speed transmission bulletins. FINALLY, they agreed to use the Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF HP fluid (blue label). 

 

Fingers crossed for smooth operation and no leaks when I pick up the truck later today........

MC-10159572-9999.pdf

MC-10163241-9999.pdf

Edited by especter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...