Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

..I want to access the area behind the rear trim panel on my centre console.. maybe those that have done the console swap can help me with how to remove the rear trim panel?.. I am hoping it is not attached from the inside and I won't have to pull the entire console.. any exploded view parts listings I have seen only show these individually and not how they attach.. I've tried searching the console swap threads for pics but came up empty.

Posted
35 minutes ago, STRMTRPR said:

..I want to access the area behind the rear trim panel on my centre console.. maybe those that have done the console swap can help me with how to remove the rear trim panel?.. I am hoping it is not attached from the inside and I won't have to pull the entire console.. any exploded view parts listings I have seen only show these individually and not how they attach.. I've tried searching the console swap threads for pics but came up empty.

T15 screws are hidden in the rear peice. I think theres 4 of them

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Nasty said:

T15 screws are hidden in the rear peice. I think theres 4 of them

..  I did find the screws in the cubby area and removed them but I wasnt able to remove the rear trim panel ..I even tried some force with a trim tool but still it holds on.. am I missing something?

Edited by STRMTRPR
Posted
..  I did find the screws in the cubby area and removed them but I wasnt able to remove the rear trim panel ..I even tried some force with a trim tool but still it holds on.. am I missing something?
There is 2 more same area. I just dont quite remember where theyre at

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted
28 minutes ago, Nasty said:

There is 2 more same area. I just dont quite remember where theyre at

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

.. awesome.. thanks for the help Nasty :thumbs:.. the other 2 were above them at the very top of the cubby

Posted

.. there were a total of 4...2 behind the rubber insert and 2 directly above the first pair at the very top of the cubby

Posted

i know i'm a little late to the party....but for others wanting some pics....

 

post-127212-0-81041500-1404050703.thumb.jpg.3d5b4fc711581e10628faa88e97fd66a.jpg

 

 

i added a little LED to the back cubby.....

 

IMG_5855.thumb.JPG.2d2300a2ae9638f1126a356d94560c84.JPG

 

IMG_5856.thumb.JPG.400c604d0d803d5a8e8501226f85cc9e.JPG

 

IMG_5860.thumb.JPG.ab120dacdd0f8890e7a451f474a75e1f.JPG

 

IMG_5867.thumb.JPG.4d3afcb18aa2ce62ccf5fef65cc8d076.JPG

 

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, bc-chris said:

i added a little LED to the back cubby.....

..LOL that's awesome.. that's exactly what I did as well to both the upper and lower cubby.. I just tapped power from the socket

  • 2 years later...
Posted

STRMTRPR and bc-Chris,

I want to replace that 12v outlet with a hardwired 12v fast charging dual USB outlet.  I have a 2018 with center console and have removed those four torx screws but cannot get that rear trim panel to budge.  Did you use a pry tool?  How much force is needed?  Any tips will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!19FBA8B3-3A28-4224-86CE-DD7002C1A5C0.thumb.jpeg.f1166e91c1fe28c31205b6138bd5fabf.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/14/2022 at 3:12 PM, bdmd5093 said:

STRMTRPR and bc-Chris,

I want to replace that 12v outlet with a hardwired 12v fast charging dual USB outlet.  I have a 2018 with center console and have removed those four torx screws but cannot get that rear trim panel to budge.  Did you use a pry tool?  How much force is needed?  Any tips will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!19FBA8B3-3A28-4224-86CE-DD7002C1A5C0.thumb.jpeg.f1166e91c1fe28c31205b6138bd5fabf.jpeg

That's my original plan, plus adding an additional set of USBs on the other side of the pocket. 

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 2/14/2022 at 3:12 PM, bdmd5093 said:

STRMTRPR and bc-Chris,

I want to replace that 12v outlet with a hardwired 12v fast charging dual USB outlet.  I have a 2018 with center console and have removed those four torx screws but cannot get that rear trim panel to budge.  Did you use a pry tool?  How much force is needed?  Any tips will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!19FBA8B3-3A28-4224-86CE-DD7002C1A5C0.thumb.jpeg.f1166e91c1fe28c31205b6138bd5fabf.jpeg

I am looking to do the same thing. Also with the front usb ports. 

Have you do this project yet? 

Also what usb port are you planning on installing? 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Silverado1475, 

I was able to complete this project.  I added one in the rear portion of the console, it has 2 usb-3 and one USB-c ports.  Here is what I used.  $15.89 on Amazon.  works perfectly, backseat riders love it and was a clean finish.  Only difficult part was pulling off the rear face of the console.  It takes ALOT of force-you just have to keep working with it and pull up at about a 20degree angle towards the back seat.

 

56W USB C Car Charger Socket, Ouffun Aluminum Metal 12V-24V Multiple USB Outlet 20W PD USB-C & Two QC3.0 Ports with Power Switch Fast Car Adapter for Car Boat Marine Truck Golf RV Motorcycle

 

image.png.06d4495d79b1297939e65469ba0b2f6d.png

 

image.png.e954145ccf4dd2212de094049e505d32.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...