Jump to content

Upper control arm stops

Echo327
 Share

Recommended Posts

Echo327 Enthusiast

Echo327

Posted
Posted

My question for all of you is. Do I have to cut the stops off the frame after I put a leveling kit on. The picture is after the 3" leveling kit was put on. It looks awfully close to the stop. 621b6574dda0eb2eca7ce8d804791bf2.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

 

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

Imagine any scene from dukes of hazard, but when ever they make a jump the front wheels fall off... Your bjs can't n handle missing that stop most likely. Heck if you still have factory ucas you'll need aftermarket ones soon enough.

  • Like 1
Echo327 Enthusiast

Echo327

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Imagine any scene from dukes of hazard, but when ever they make a jump the front wheels fall off... Your bjs can't n handle missing that stop most likely. Heck if you still have factory ucas you'll need aftermarket ones soon enough.
The new upper control arms are on the way. I'll have them Thursday. [emoji41]

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Echo327 Enthusiast

Echo327

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Will do. Thanks for the info.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Echo327 Enthusiast

Echo327

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It even has that new upper control arm smell.....6d90518e4a734329b6694c2a1c08af13.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Echo327 Enthusiast

Echo327

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No matter what YouTube says. You have to remove the strut in order to get the upper control arm bolts out!! Alot of cursing went into the installation of these. Enjoy!9c0511c456aea545a463df67ca74e72e.jpgdf8fffb9a9edba515363966b52321b54.jpgedff02e52b6b3e8d6d5f6824f582ef9e.jpg25589fdc5ba55fe7975cbd48d18ddba9.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted
No matter what YouTube says. You have to remove the strut in order to get the upper control arm bolts out!! Alot of cursing went into the installation of these. Enjoy!9c0511c456aea545a463df67ca74e72e.jpgdf8fffb9a9edba515363966b52321b54.jpgedff02e52b6b3e8d6d5f6824f582ef9e.jpg25589fdc5ba55fe7975cbd48d18ddba9.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

 

Echo

How much of a pain was this. I have a 3 in level as well and am ordering the uca tonight from RC. Are you happy with the RC control arms? What was the biggest pain of installing them? Did you feel a difference?

 

Were you able to put the uca in in your driveway?

Any device before i tackle the job?

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Echo327 Enthusiast

Echo327

Posted
  • Author
Posted
EchoHow much of a pain was this. I have a 3 in level as well and am ordering the uca tonight from RC. Are you happy with the RC control arms? What was the biggest pain of installing them? Did you feel a difference?
 
Were you able to put the uca in in your driveway?
Any device before i tackle the job?
 
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
 
 
Totally able to do it in my driveway. Do yourself a favor and completely remove the strut before you even start dealing with the uca. Also loosen the sway bar bolt. You don't have to remove it just loosen. I marked the position of the uca before I removed it. The difference in the ride is totally worth the work. Make sure you get an alignment afterwards. I took mine right to the tire shop when I was done. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

At least it will be worth it. I just remember trying to put the strut back in after adding the block to the strut for the 3 in level. What a b!+@& that was. Oh and I see you left the bump stop.... I here popp say lose it but i don't want any over travel.
About how long did it take you from start to end?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Echo327 Enthusiast

Echo327

Posted
  • Author
Posted
At least it will be worth it. I just remember trying to put the strut back in after adding the block to the strut for the 3 in level. What a b!+@& that was. Oh and I see you left the bump stop.... I here popp say lose it but i don't want any over travel.
About how long did it take you from start to end?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


A few hours. I started around 9AM and was getting it aligned at noon. I left the stop it's really not an issue with the new uca.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Echo327 said:

A few hours. I started around 9AM and was getting it aligned at noon. I left the stop it's really not an issue with the new uca.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Photo please of the stop 'after' sitting on the ground like you did the before please.  

  • Like 1
Echo327 Enthusiast

Echo327

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 3/26/2019 at 8:58 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Photo please of the stop 'after' sitting on the ground like you did the before please.  

 

20190328_130952.jpg

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Installed the arms last night at the shop. Probably took about 4 hrs. Tried removing the cam bolts w the strut in. 2 came out, 1 on each side but the front ones were hindered by the spring so removed the struts. Once the struts were out it went by much faster and smoother. I think trying with the strut in added some un-needed time. I did it on a lift but could have tackled it with some Jackstands and a Jack. I advice 2 ppl just to manipulate different parts but on your own would just take a bit longer. At the shop now getting an alignment. Already feels a little better. I will say these things are beefy. Definitely worth the upgrade and price

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...